Looking at a toro 520H

[stegs 327]

Going this weekend (hopefully) to look at a toro 520H

 

I was sent pictures of it, looks like its in good shape. Its been stored out of the weather all its life (or so im told)

 

hour meter shows 714.7 and he says the hour meter works

 

has 48" side discharge deck, snow plow, wheel weights.

 

He also just spent 1000 dollars on alot of new parts, mostly redid the ignition from what i can see. He used genuine toro parts

 

 

Anyway, for the entire package he is asking 1500 or best offer. 

 

 

What is something like this worth? 

 

Other than it being dirty, i think it will clean up nice. 

 

here is a link to the ad.

 

 

tell me what you think. Looking for honest opinions 

 

 

[Pullstart 67,015]

Couple things… links to outside sales like that aren’t allowed on RedSquare FYI.  Sitting halfway in a torn up garage in a box isn’t quite inside shelter.  I’m not sure, but if he can show receipts of the $1,000 spent it would be helpful to determine it’s actually worth what he’s asking.

[stegs 327]

10 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Couple things… links to outside sales like that aren’t allowed on RedSquare FYI.  Sitting halfway in a torn up garage in a box isn’t quite inside shelter.  I’m not sure, but if he can show receipts of the $1,000 spent it would be helpful to determine it’s actually worth what he’s asking.

 

Sorry about the link. I did not know.

 

He has sent me pictures of the receipts for alot of parts. It was mostly ignition stuff

 

condenser

ignition rotor

coil battery return

cable kit

spark plugs

oil change

control for ignition

spring - extension

etc

 

he said he has more reciepts with it. 

 

even with the work done, it seems 1500 is alot for a 520h. There is another listed with a 2 stage snowblower for 1500 or best offer

 

this has weights and plow and mower deck, but i dont know.

 

 

[stegs 327]

Update

 

just sent me the model and serial number

 

model number 73501

serial number 6900295

 

from what i can tell its a 1996 unit. 

 

 

what is the difference between the 73501 and 73502 models? both appear to be made in 1996?

 

Edited February 3, 2022 by stegs

[lynnmor 7,848]

23 minutes ago, stegs said:

Update

just sent me the model and serial number

model number 73501

serial number 6900295

from what i can tell its a 1996 unit.

what is the difference between the 73501 and 73502 models? both appear to be made in 1996?

 

 

One has the gold decals showing that it is an anniversary model, the other has the usual colors.  This one does not have the gold.

 

I agree, it was not inside storage, but better than nothing.  The floorboards are missing the thick pads and there may have been some rust repair.

 

You can't spend that much money on repairing the ignition unless there was a huge labor charge added.

 

[stegs 327]

2 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

One has the gold decals showing that it is an anniversary model, the other has the usual colors.  This one does not have the gold.

 

I agree, it was not inside storage, but better than nothing.  The floorboards are missing the thick pads and there may have been some rust repair.

 

You can't spend that much money on repairing the ignition unless there was a huge labor charge added.

 

Not sure

 

he did have a local shop do all the work. I know that because he sent me pics of the reciepts

 

when i say 1000 in parts, that means he had it gone thru. Oil change was included and who knows what else. He just sent pics of mostly ignition parts that he did

[lynnmor 7,848]

Just now, stegs said:

Not sure

 

he did have a local shop do all the work. I know that because he sent me pics of the reciepts

 

when i say 1000 in parts, that means he had it gone thru. Oil change was included and who knows what else. He just sent pics of mostly ignition parts that he did

 

I'm sure.

 

Local shops are the luck of the draw.

 

I guess that you mean that his/her wallet was gone thru.

 

Engine oil changes are a routine job, exactly 2 quarts and a $7 filter.  Transmission oil changes are simple but takes some time to refill, takes up to 5 quarts and a $10 filter.  Both of these would be worth nothing to me as I would dump it anyway not knowing for sure what is in there.

[stevasaurus 23,296]

Links to 3rd party platforms are against the rules.  I deleted the link, please do not post links again.  

[kpinnc 14,663]

There is a very nice 96 520-H on local CL here with only 300 hours on it. 48 inch mower deck, no rust, clearly taken care of.

 

Asking $1400. 

 

I don't want another 520, but this one is very nice. Even so, I would probably offer a little less and see if he accepts. 

 

I think $1500 is a bit high for even a nice one. But that's just my opinion. So long as you and the seller is happy, that is all that matters.

[stegs 327]

Update

 

I was going to go look at this 520h today

 

I just got a call from him saying he went to start it, and as it was cranking over it stopped and now he has no power anywhere. Dash and everything is completely dead

 

He is going to check fuses and let me know

 

 

Is this common for 520H tractors? 

 

should i just save my money and avoid

[pfrederi 18,708]

Just look at the number of 520 electrical issues in the Electrical forum here.  520s seem to be somewhat "over represented"

[kpinnc 14,663]

The 520 has the most complicated electrical of any ot the "Classic" machines. That being said, it is not a mess at all. It does have full instrumentation, and all the safety equipment you would expect on a 1996 machine. But it is well documented and any issues should be solvable.

 

And an easy issue that prevents it from starting may benefit you as the buyer. Although it introduces more risk as well if you can't operate it before buying. 

 

Most of us here have no problem with a non-runner, but we do this for fun. It's just another challenge. But if you're looking for a turnkey worker, and don't have time to troubleshoot and repair then the risk is much higher for you.

Edited February 4, 2022 by kpinnc

[Horse Newbie 7,395]

I would try to get it dirt cheap and then spend a fortune to fix it !  

 

That’s just me…

 

I got my 1994 520H, rototiller, and a leaf vac trailer/system for $140, then spent probably $400 to $500 (I DONT KNOW) fixing issues and painting it.

 

I got my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 for $FREE and am currently spending hundreds to refresh it… having a ball !

 

That’s just me…

[kpinnc 14,663]

29 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I got my 1994 520H, rototiller, and a leaf vac trailer/system for $140, then spent probably $400 to $500 (I DONT KNOW) fixing issues and painting it.

 

I got my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600 for $FREE and am currently spending hundreds to refresh it… having a ball !

 

What Tim is saying is that he is a horse thief, because he stole them both! 

 

But he's absolutely right. That's how we like to get these. Every once in a while you find a diamond, but all of mine started more like a turd.

Edited February 4, 2022 by kpinnc

[lynnmor 7,848]

I would give him a low ball offer and to see if you can get it cheap.  Once home, I would have it running within the hour.

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

2 hours ago, stegs said:

Dash and everything is completely dead

 

One of the problems with electrical systems is that owners who simply don't understand what they are doing attempt to 'repair' them.

They rip out wires, cut wires, etc, etc, until they either give up and park the machine for it to rot, or they somehow by the Grace of Cthulu get it 'running' again.

And usually by that time the wiring is a total mess and needs to be re-done.

 

[Lee1977 7,221]

If your new to electrical repairs the 520 is not the best place to start.  The other thing ro check out is "Rust" the 300, 400, and 500 series don't fair well out side for 25 years.

[RED-Z06 2,582]

520 was a solid tractor but mechanically i think it gets overblown on price/value.  Side by side i don't see any huge upgrades from say a 416-H that merit the cost, sure...possibly a swept axle and 60" deck...gear reduction steering possibly, but...no 3pt hitch, rear lift is still cable actuated, no external hydraulic outlets, no power steering, no rear pto...didnt get the bigger tires many tractors did at the time.  It got alot of gauges, lights, nifty decals.

 

Good tractors...solid as a rock, but they get hoisted up onto a very expensive pedestal and many have been beat up and hacked on.

[stegs 327]

Well, I have a update, and its a story. Grab the popcorn

 

 

So I ended up talking to him on the phone. He said the tractor had no electrical activity. Nothing worked, no lights, completely dead. He did say that it ran about 2 months prior and ran great. no smoke, no knocks.

 

Anyway, told him no way am i going to spend 1k or more on a old garden tractor that doesnt run and has no power at all. 

 

He said make me a offer as it sits. So I told him, my top dollar would be 600 dollars if it was in good shape, but more likely be around 500 in average condition.

 

 

I made the drive down to see him, looked it over. It was extremely dirty. Grass buildup, grease, hasnt been washed ever. However, I could see under that grass and grease, it was in great shape. No rust to speak of. Dash in great shape. Just a tear in the seat

 

Anyway, we tried to jump start it. Fiddled around with it for 20 min in the snow (mind you it was about 12 degrees during the day here)

 

after 20 min of messing with it, he looked at me and said "I promise you it runs great, I just dont know why it wont start"

 

I told him I really liked the tractor, but not running could be very expensive to fix. I said "look, i drove a hour for it. I like it, but it needs work. I will give you 300 dollars cash for the tractor, 48" mower deck, wheel weights and plow. take it or leave it, but im cold"

 

He took it. I got it for 300 dollars. He was asking 1500 originally !!!!

 

 

Pushed it on to my trailer, loaded the deck and plow, paid him and took off home

 

Saturday morning (the next day) after sitting in a heated barn all night to thaw, I went to work. First job was to take a air compressor and clean all the grass out. 20 min later, I had it somewhat clean

 

Next job was to figure out why there was no 12v power. Battery was good, showing 14.2 volts on the tender.

 

Followed the positive cable to the starter, cleaned those connections. Followed the negative to the frame/ground and found it was covered in grease/grass. Took it loose, cleaned with brake cleaner, reinstalled and just like that I had power, but it wouldnt start.

 

So now im thinking it has to be a safety somewhere. I have power, the dash lights come on and was flashing seat safety. So took that apart, cleaned with compressed air and hit it with break cleaner. 

 

Still nothing, but I had consistant power. I thought it has to be another safety. 

 

 

Then it hit me. I bet its the neutral safety switch!!!. I turned the key to the start postition and wiggled the drive lever and IT CRANKED!!

 

not knowing where the neutral safety was located at the time, i cranked it while wiggling the drive lever. Cranked over but would not fire. Took a look a the fuel filter (which i replaced with a new one) and had no fuel going to the filter

 

Hopped off and he had shut the gas off from the tank!! Turned it on, cranked it and it fired right up and purred like a kitten!

 

 

Drove it to my garage, gave it a hot water wash to get all the grease/grime off, cleaned up the NSS and now it starts every time

 

 

Only thing it did was had a hiccup with the carb, like it was starving for fuel at higher RPM. So, i took the top of the carb off, hit all those little needles/jets with some carb cleaner and my air compressor.

 

I reinstalled the top of the carb and it runs like brand new!!! It idles perfect, revs up great, no hiccups or issues. Runs great to full rpm!!

 

 

 

So, there is my long story on my 520H journey. Oh, the plow works great, and the mower deck cleaned up nice and is quiet. i did grease it up again and order new blades for it. 

 

 

 

300 dollars for it. Ill never find another 520h, with 727 original hours, and with weights, and a plow, and a mower deck for that price again. Especially in the shape this one is.

 

 

Now I just need to figure out how to adjust the creep out of the hydro trans. Ill mess with that this week sometime

Edited February 7, 2022 by stegs

[lynnmor 7,848]

Folks, be careful out there, horse thieves are on the prowl. 

[WHX?? 51,865]

Glad to hear you saved one!  Now  Lets see some 

On the creep the adjustment is an eccentric  on top of the Hydro and the manual does a good job of explaining the adjustment. 

Run some seafoam in it ...can't hurt. 

Edited February 7, 2022 by WHX??

[JCM 10,247]

stegs, you know we love our before and after pics ?

[stegs 327]

7 minutes ago, JCM said:

stegs, you know we love our before and after pics ?

 

Ill try to load some up here. 

 

I didnt get any before pics....just imagine dead grass/leave and grease caked on everything. The frame, the hydro pump, fan, even by the battery compartment and where the NSS is. Inches of it. Thick !!

 

Honestly, it took me 20-30 min to blow that thing clean with the air compressor. This spring when it warms up, ill give it a more involved wash! But for now, hot water thru the garden hose melted away pounds of grease/grime

 

 

Ill work on pics here shortly, see if i can figure that out

Edited February 7, 2022 by stegs

[stegs 327]

[Horse Newbie 7,395]

1 hour ago, stegs said:

Now I just need to figure out how to adjust the creep out of the hydro trans. Ill mess with that this week sometime

Congratulations on getting your 520H at a fair price !

There is a manual on here that maybe someone who navigates this site better than me will post.

 

As far as adjusting the hydro to not “creep” in neutral, there are instructions in the manual.

Get the back wheels up off of the ground…

 Tilt the seat forward, and you will see the motion control plate thing down in the hole in the seat pan.

The large head bolt is the cam adjustment .

The other is the pivot bolt.

Crank the tractor and leave it in neutral.

See if the back wheels creep forward or backwards.

Loosen the locknut on the cam adjustment .

Slowly turn the cam adjustment bolt in either direction until the wheels remain motionless.

Lock the cam adjustment by holding the adjustment nut, while tightening the lock nut.