for petes sake 1 #1 Posted January 30, 2022 Good day everyone, It’s definitely been a while since I was on here. Sorry for disappearing, but the past 2-3 yrs have been trying to say the least. Between helping taking care of my own family and helping others I haven’t had much time to do anything but sleep and eat. So back to my issue. I posted previously about this tractor and having carb issues I.e. leaking fuel at intake and not running right. Forward 2 -3 yrs ad it’s back in my life ( whether I like it or not ). So since my last post I received an identical casting aftermarket carb and gutted the new one and replaced the old internals. The issue still seems to be present so for now we run the tractor dry every shut off to remove any gas that could possibly leak after shut down. So now I am tackling the governor and adjustments. I have been able to get the fast idle to stay at approximately 3300-3400 rpms and it runs fairly well. When I idle down to low idle the motor doesn’t idle well and backfires lightly through the carb the odd time. A little updated history. Last year the end cap on the exhaust muffler blew off and was rewelded ( not my doing ). Before I adjusted the governor the muffler would blow the odd spark out off the tailpipe. ( it still does a little ). I scoped the cylinder walls and to my amazement they were clean and I could still see cross hatching and piston head was surprisingly clean as well. My question is this, I have the manual from 1993 which does give me most of what I need but depending on where I look the specific info I’m looking for is non existant. From the manual this is what I know. High idle rpm 3350. Low idle rpm1200/1600. Mixture screw 2 1/2 turns out. So could my low idle problem be due to a plugged muffler ? ( just because the muffler end cap blew off ). All adjustments are correct. I have checked valve clearances, coil to rotor clearances and of course plug gap. Is it possible that the ignition module ( a two wire ) or the coil are bad and allowing fast idle but not strong enough to keep it at idle. Again sorry for no show lately. i appreciate any info you could throw my way to try. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
for petes sake 1 #2 Posted January 30, 2022 Sorry all just a correction to my previous post. The voltage regulator is a three wire. (Should have proof read my post). thanks again all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,472 #3 Posted January 30, 2022 You realize the 2-1/2 turns is just to make the engine run after carburetor work. Once it is warmed up it needs to be fine tuned for maximum performance. The reason being every same engine is different. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
for petes sake 1 #4 Posted January 30, 2022 Yes thank you I appreciate the response seems I can’t get it to idle lower than around 2200 rpm. So a suggestion to me would be to open the mixture screw? I seems whenever I get to around 2000 rpm it starts to spit out the carb and ultimately die. So another thing I’m finding is it is very hard to start when warmed up. So far I have unassembled everything someone else has done. There was a thick plastic gasket plate at the intake side of the carb that I’m sure belongs on the air filter side which ultimately changed the governor setting by a quarter inch ( the thickness of the plastic plate and common sense tells me plastic shouldn’t be near warm engine parts ) I have now set high rpm at 3350 rpm. If I adjust the mixture screw will that ultimately change the high rpm. It is not blowing black smoke at high idle and seems to be very smooth running. I used to adjust mixture screw on other carbs until it ran rich and then back it off till the smoke went away. Not sure if it was right but it seemed to work well for me before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I need to get this running smooth and out of my garage. thanks again for reply regards for Pete’s sake Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
