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RED-Z06

M12 coming apart for surgery.

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RED-Z06

Well it hasnt gone quite as bad as id expected, it took an hour to get the tins off and out of..6 bolts only 1 sheared, ill address that later.  But i usually strip these down on the frame as far as possible to shed weight...they are still some kind of heavy.

 

But the good news, muffler came off, cylinder looks pristine, crank pulley came off but that was also too much fun.

 

Got to do some cleanup on what i removed so far and get it in boxes or painted up...then I'll unbolt the engine from the pan and get it on the bench..get the bearing plate off, rod and piston out, cam out...and then do the thing that this was all for...new governor gear...

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RED-Z06

Surprisingly clean under the tins

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RED-Z06

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ebinmaine

Looks pretty clean.  

 

Other than governor gear and gaskets, any new parts going in? Or just a quick cleanup and reassemble?

 

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RED-Z06
5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Looks pretty clean.  

 

Other than governor gear and gaskets, any new parts going in? Or just a quick cleanup and reassemble?

 

Nothing planned, ill check the rings, clean the grooves, clean the valves and put it together..should be fine, it ran great besides being sluggish 

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richmondred01

Just a suggestion. The cylinder may “look clean” however, it’s best to check now to see if it’s out of spec and egg shape. Use a bore cylinder and measure the cylinder. Same with the crank journal with a micrometer. 
It’s one of those pay me now or pay me more later. 

Just my two cents. 

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RED-Z06

Well...this is what it looks like.

 

Got the block cleaned, but smoked the power switch on my ultrasonic, if its not meant to go to 200⁰ then it shouldn't be able to get there...new switch will be in Thursday.

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RED-Z06

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richmondred01

Don’t forget the cam spacers. 

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RED-Z06
23 minutes ago, richmondred01 said:

Don’t forget the cam spacers. 

Yep got both zip tied to the cam.

 

Ran a glaze buster a couple passes down the bore to clean it for measuring with the bore gauges.  No ridge, no ring inversion zone wear.  Block cleans up nice, removed the gaskets that were exposed to that point.  Waiting on the gaskets now..

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RED-Z06

Okay, got the ring gaps checked, all in spec, bore is straight, piston looked good, didnt see anything alarming other than it got dusted at some point.

 

I cleaned the sump out really well, put in new seals, gaskets, set crank runout, set the balance gears up, cam in with new plug, set valve lash to spec.  Got it all painted up nice, its back on the frame...i have to pull the shroud off to run a with behind the bearing plate but it spins over...too cold and the battery wasnt having it but it did try to light off a few times.

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RED-Z06

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RED-Z06

She's pretty smooth...fired right up.  I did crank it 10 seconds with the plug out to prime the fuel system.

 

 

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, RED-Z06 said:

I did crank it 10 seconds with the plug out to prime the fuel system

 

Not as much 'fun' as blowing into the fuel tank though, is it ?

 

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ebinmaine
Just now, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Not as much 'fun' as blowing into the fuel tank though, is it ?

 

Works every time

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Maxwell-8

nice restauration! ready to work for another 30 years. WELL DONE:handgestures-thumbupright:

On 1/3/2022 at 11:00 PM, RED-Z06 said:

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All those dippers are very strait. why didn't they make it more into a spoon kind of shape?

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RED-Z06
2 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

nice restauration! ready to work for another 30 years. WELL DONE:handgestures-thumbupright:

All those dippers are very strait. why didn't they make it more into a spoon kind of shape?

A spoon hitting oil at 3600 would need to be much more robust, the resistance would snap it off

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Jeff-C175
19 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

resistance

 

And although minimal, it would rob horsepower... probably not measurably though.

 

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RED-Z06
3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

And although minimal, it would rob horsepower... probably not measurably though.

 

The billet rod in my race engine had a little scoop on the end of the dipper and the cap was drilled down to it, the Clevite77 inserts were also drilled and clearanced for it..so while running it forced oil up into the rod bearing. Which was nifty because we only ran 14oz of oil so the rod was just barely in it..if we had too much oil you could see the rpms run a bit lower from the windage drag.

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RED-Z06

Well...ol girls coming back apart, runs good, not smoking...but, its got a rattle that has developed over 5 hours of running, i dont think its the rod because its not present on shut down which is when K/M rods tend to get pronounced.  Maybe piston slap...i cleaned the hell out of the bore and block though im always very meticulous with cleaning.  I havent checked for a loose flywheel...just thought of that, i did torque the rod bolts and flywheel with a torque wrench.

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RED-Z06

Alright, new rod, piston, rings, carb, fuel pump...

 

Fuel pump immediately started leaking...swapped the old one on.  Got it started...immediately was rattling, sounds like the balance gears...

 

The engine runs strong, i ran it a good hour and a half, no smoke, plenty of power, only problem is it won't idle.  Its like my idle screw is 1/16 turn away from 1800 to 1100, and the mixture screw does virtually nothing.

 

 

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RED-Z06

Found an air leak at the carb gasket...sealed that and it idles pretty good now, the one time i dont use form-a-gasket on a gasket, bit me

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Jeff-C175
22 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

immediately was rattling

 

What was the camshaft end play again?

 

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RED-Z06
6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

What was the camshaft end play again?

 

Didn't measure because i didnt change anything there and it didnt rattle prior, i put the same shims in the same place...id say it was .004 to .005...it wasnt much but definitely turned freely by hand, no binding but no slop.

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RED-Z06

Its basically mocking me at this point...🤣🤣

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