Retired Wrencher 5,770 #1 Posted December 15, 2021 (edited) It has been a while since I work on these! I was cleaning all wire connections because they were rusty being 53 years old. Put back together and being only three wires Batt -Start and Coil or ignition. All I get now is a buzz from the original Delco/Remmey regulator. I double check my connections with a new switch. any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance. I do not have the head on at this time cleaning the carbon off. So, no wire and plug hook up. Edited December 15, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #2 Posted December 15, 2021 (edited) Check the wire at the gen from the switch. Compare battery voltage of the battery itself to the voltage you get at the gen terminal when the key is in crank position. See how much voltage you're dropping. First guess is messing with the wire connections at that old switch tweaked something inside it. The regulator buzzing sounds like low voltage. The internal contacts of the switch takes a lot of abuse and become fragile. 2nd guess is you have dust buildup inside the gen and it's a coincidence it happened now. There isn't a lot to the wiring. Edited December 15, 2021 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #3 Posted December 16, 2021 17 hours ago, squonk said: Check the wire at the gen from the switch. Compare battery voltage of the battery itself to the voltage you get at the gen terminal when the key is in crank position. See how much voltage you're dropping. First guess is messing with the wire connections at that old switch tweaked something inside it. The regulator buzzing sounds like low voltage. The internal contacts of the switch takes a lot of abuse and become fragile. 2nd guess is you have dust buildup inside the gen and it's a coincidence it happened now. There isn't a lot to the wiring. Mike it was running a week ago. I just pick this up as a winter hobby. And I have on a battery pack. It has a new switch. Will put battery in an try it. M Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #4 Posted December 16, 2021 Is the switch a HD one which it needs to carry the approximately 65 amps required to start the engine? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #5 Posted December 16, 2021 It looks like the original. Heavey duty post. I have had it for years. Never used it till now. Like I said will put the battery in today and try it. Will keep you posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #6 Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Mike, I got this from Sparky or Mike Nelson. I just tried it same thing with battery in. Do I need the head on? I would think just to turn over the Gen you would not? Edited December 16, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,650 #7 Posted December 16, 2021 You do not need the head on but how are you fastening the upper S/G mount strap... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #8 Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Check the fasten points of the gen for rust/corrosion. Still want to know what the voltage is at the generator terminal in the crank position. On my engine test stand with an 8 HP start gen engine it took 82 in rush amps to get the engine to start cranking and 62 amps to keep it cranking. You losing power somewhere or the gen itself needs work. Edited December 16, 2021 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #9 Posted December 16, 2021 That seems odd just worked a week ago that it would not work. Just used a small drill to clean up the rust with wire brush. Can test later today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #10 Posted December 16, 2021 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: You do not need the head on but how are you fastening the upper S/G mount strap... upper S/G mount strap? WIERS come from gen to key and battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #11 Posted December 16, 2021 I think Paul means the mount with the slot to adjust belt tension. I have a gen here that occasionally doesn't crank. It needs to be cleaned out and brushes replaced. Could be what's happening here. If you have the proper voltage at the terminal and good grounds then this is what's needed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,650 #12 Posted December 16, 2021 This part. it represents 50% of your grounding. If the pivot bolts are not clean and this is not mounted maybe your issue... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #13 Posted December 16, 2021 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: This part. it represents 50% of your grounding. If the pivot bolts are not clean and this is not mounted maybe your issue... will give that a try. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #14 Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) I took a few picks with the key off then on for the last group. Edited December 16, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,650 #15 Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) Your heavy wire is on the wrong terminal Look for an A and an F stamped into the body of the S/G Heavy wire from Switch goes to A which is usually the front of teh two terminals. Looks like you have it on the Field terminal. Edited December 16, 2021 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,650 #16 Posted December 16, 2021 (edited) The 12 volt heavy feed from the switch should go to the A terminal same one the small wire that comes from under the regulator goes to. (two wires on the genny A terminal one on the F) The small wire from the last terminal on the regulator goes to F on the genny. Yours is correct. Edited December 16, 2021 by pfrederi 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #17 Posted December 16, 2021 Switch that wire. If it still doesn't crank give us a pic of the voltage at the heavy wire while in the START position. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #18 Posted December 17, 2021 (edited) OOPS Thanks Guys. Joys of getting old. Will do today. Edited December 17, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #19 Posted December 17, 2021 17 hours ago, pfrederi said: This part. it represents 50% of your grounding. If the pivot bolts are not clean and this is not mounted maybe your issue... Thanks, Paul, for the info and picks. Where did you get the Regulator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #20 Posted December 17, 2021 (edited) https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/generator-regulator-12-volt-four-terminal-two-unit-8040-6171.html Edited December 17, 2021 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,650 #21 Posted December 17, 2021 Just abut any saddle mount will work. Some are Three terminal some Four like the one Mike showed. You can use either one. The one in my picture is a 3 Terminal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,054 #22 Posted December 17, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, squonk said: https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/generator-regulator-12-volt-four-terminal-two-unit-8040-6171.html Over what range of S/Gs will this work? This thread is discussing a K181 on an 854, right? Are these voltage, current regulating with temperature compensation? Edited December 17, 2021 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,780 #23 Posted December 17, 2021 This regulator fits all of the WH starter Gens I have had. 702, 857,1075. Probably fits all WH models. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,770 #24 Posted December 17, 2021 (edited) Thanks for your help, Mike and Paul, all set it works with the wire switch. Trying to post vid will update. Thanks for info on the Regulator. Edited December 18, 2021 by Retierd Wrencher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites