C-175 wiring

[AETD 2]

Hello,

 

I put in new battery, checked oil and fuel levels, i started my C-175 yesterday (first time in 15 months) i drove it for 4-5 min

I stopped it by turning the key to off position and now it is dead, no reaction from ignition key.

Fuses are OK, battery is charged, no head or taillights work...

Broken, starter, solenoid, ignition swich, can be anything.

 

But the loom is a mess, unused and cut of cables (have been there all the time since i own it, lights worked, seat switch and pto switch worked for safety, it always started instant...) 

When i check connections for fitment and corrosion some cables just snap off, etc... wires where insulation rubbed off, etc... Strange i had no problems before 

So it is time for a restoration. Time to give it a little love.

 

Can't find a new complete loom here in Europe. So i want to make my own loom, colorcoded (now all cables are black)

But i would like to use the original connectors for the, solenoid, ignition and rectifier where can i find them? Google could'n help me specific enough. All results are generic plugs and connectors, not looking to fit my existing WH C175...

 

(Where) Can i buy a restoration wiringloom or connectors (kits)? what cables are best to be used for a new loom? etc... tips are welcome.

 

ps: For a WH C-175 Kohler kt 17

 

Thx...

[ebinmaine 71,831]

I've rewired several of our horses. 

I find it fairly easy to do given a good accurate schematic diagram. 

 

Ours are a little older than your own and have no safeties so less circuits are built. 

I use a few feet of standard 7 conductor trailer wire that's FULL copper.

NOT CCA... Copper clad aluminum. 

I've read that the dissimilar metals will corrode faster than full copper wire. 

 

14 guage is original. That's fine on all but the main battery to ignition switch feed. 12 would be better there. 

 

There are wire roll assortments available online with many color choices. 

The connectors may be Delphi 56 type. 

Can be had online or possibly local parts store. 

It's likely you'll be able to reuse the plastic connectors from your own tractor.  

[953 nut 59,251]

@BOB ELLISON has a colored wiring diagram for the C-160 that should be like yours. The one change he made was the elimination of the "AMP" meter and replaced it with a colt meter. Bad amp meters have been a source of problems on lots of .

Most of the connectors in your wiring use the Delphi Packard GM-56 terminals which snap into the plastic connector caps. They are very common in the USA and I suspect they were used in Europe too.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,391]

There is a note at the bottom of the wiring diagrams about the black wires. Click on the fuzzy picture in the link to see the single-cylinder and twin-cylinder wiring. Click on them.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

diagram for the C-160 that should be like yours.

 

That diagram shows a relay for the lighting circuit.  The C-175 has no such relay... at least mine doesn't!

 

 

And a voltmeter is wired very differently from an ammeter.

 

The PTO interlock switch is also quite different.

 

I don't see the seat interlock switch on that diagram either.

 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[ebinmaine 71,831]

6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

That diagram shows a relay for the lighting circuit.  The C-175 has no such relay... at least mine doesn't

B and C doesn't either. 

Likely added in for electrical safety.  

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

c-175 wiring schematic.pdf   This is the schematic that's in my manual, click the box to the left for the PDF which is clearer than the screenshot  below.

 

 

This appears to match closely what Garry posted a link to earlier:  Looks as if there are some differences though, my schematic is a 1980 model.

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[1940willys 136]

I've been told that if the amp meter go's bad the starting circuit won't work at all! You can however 'jump out that amp meter for testing purpose's though 

[midpack 992]

You did make sure the PTO is disengaged, right? That's usually why mine go "dead" like that...    

 

also, if you're going to re-wire I've found an an old automotive wiring harness to be helpful with the different color wires. Old car harnesses can be had pretty cheep

 

I had a C-175 with an all black harness too. I replaced it when I used a Magnum engine (and harness) after the KT17 holed the block

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

40 minutes ago, midpack said:

make sure the PTO is disengaged

 

A little more about the PTO switch,  I've added the numbers.  These numbers are NOT printed on the switch, only added for explanation purposes.

 

[ebinmaine 71,831]

1 hour ago, 1940willys said:

I've been told that if the amp meter go's bad the starting circuit won't work at all! You can however 'jump out that amp meter for testing purpose's though 

If the ammeter went out and opened circuit on the schematic diagram above there would be no Battery to Ignition switch power. The whole tractor would go dead   ... Nuttin'. 

 

[Handy Don 13,683]

17 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If the ammeter went out and opened circuit on the schematic diagram above there would be no Battery to Ignition switch power. The whole tractor would go dead   ... Nuttin'. 

 

Ammeters have their fans and value, especially in the days before sealed batteries and solid state regulators. Seeing no positive current was an easy "Oh, I think I have a problem".