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TC10284

P220g - Symptoms of valves out of adjustment

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lynnmor
6 minutes ago, TC10284 said:

 

Yes, it holds fairly steady. 

What's kind of strange is that the "poppiness" clears up after about 10-15min of WOT. It's done that twice. Once before correcting the valves, and once after. Both times was doing some test stripes with the 60" deck. 

Again, the gas (maybe 1/4 tank) did smell a little stale, but it was mixed with a full tank of fresh. Although I've never had stale gas make it sound like that at idle. 

Did you try fresh spark plugs?

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TC10284
10 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Did you try fresh spark plugs?

 

Yes, I installed new NGK TR5's. 

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TC10284

Do you think bending the float some may help? Seems to run a bit rich. 

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lynnmor
2 hours ago, TC10284 said:

Do you think bending the float some may help? Seems to run a bit rich. 

The float level should be set by the book, bending it up or down will do nothing for your issue if it is in the range that will supply fuel without overflowing into the air stream.  That said, it is also possible that the float is faulty.

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Snoopy11
On 11/2/2021 at 10:51 AM, TC10284 said:

 

Yes, it holds fairly steady. 

What's kind of strange is that the "poppiness" clears up after about 10-15min of WOT. It's done that twice. Once before correcting the valves, and once after. Both times was doing some test stripes with the 60" deck. 

Again, the gas (maybe 1/4 tank) did smell a little stale, but it was mixed with a full tank of fresh. Although I've never had stale gas make it sound like that at idle. 

 

It honestly sounds and looks like it's running a bit rich.

I was wondering if bending the float might help some? I can adjust the idle mixture screw, but that should just be for idling, whereas it seems rich all the way around. 

When is the last time you changed air filters? 

 

One thing to try... try running it without the air filter or any restrictions at the air box. See if anything changes.

 

Rich can sometimes be countered by reducing air restrictions. 

 

I am thinking hard on this one... :ph34r:

 

Don

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Snoopy11
On 11/2/2021 at 11:09 AM, TC10284 said:

 

Yes, I installed new NGK TR5's. 

Another thing to try is a different type of plug... such as this autolite.

 

It will help ignite any after-fuel... and give you more power at the same time. This is a non-resistor type plug... so every ounce of power goes through the plug. Guys at parts stores can help you cross reference a plug such as this if you bring in your stock one. 

 

AR3910X Racing Spark Plug - Predator & Honda Clone

 

Don

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Snoopy11
On 11/2/2021 at 11:28 AM, TC10284 said:

Do you think bending the float some may help?

I would do everything in my power to avoid doing anything like that... :handgestures-salute:

 

Don

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Snoopy11

Man, it is so hard to tell from the video... it still sounds like an intake valve to me. 

 

Possibly why it seems like it is running rich.

 

Just SO hard to tell. Wish I could actually physically be there... :crying-yellow:

 

Don

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TC10284

So I used this tractor today to mow the back yard. It did pretty good except for one thing. It takes about an hour to do the back yard. About half way through, it just outright died like a turned the switch off. No sputtering. Let it sit for maybe 10sec and cranked right back up. No issues the rest of the yard. 

 

Let it sit for maybe 10min and decided to move it under the shed since it might rain tomorrow. Took a little bit to get it to start up - acted like it didn't want to fire well. 

 

My suspicion is either a bad coil or ignition control module. But not sure. Guess it could also be a seat switch that triggered earlier, because I had just gone over a few bumps a couple seconds prior. 

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Snoopy11
12 hours ago, TC10284 said:

So I used this tractor today to mow the back yard. It did pretty good except for one thing. It takes about an hour to do the back yard. About half way through, it just outright died like a turned the switch off. No sputtering. Let it sit for maybe 10sec and cranked right back up. No issues the rest of the yard. 

 

Let it sit for maybe 10min and decided to move it under the shed since it might rain tomorrow. Took a little bit to get it to start up - acted like it didn't want to fire well. 

 

My suspicion is either a bad coil or ignition control module. But not sure. Guess it could also be a seat switch that triggered earlier, because I had just gone over a few bumps a couple seconds prior. 

Do you plan, know how to do some testing to figure out what is wrong?

 

I can point you in the right direction if need be! :thumbs:

 

Don

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TC10284
28 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Do you plan, know how to do some testing to figure out what is wrong?

 

I can point you in the right direction if need be! :thumbs:

 

Don

 

Depends if it continues to act up. It still does that strange idle sound, but it runs great otherwise. 

 

I'm going to test to see if the seat switch works soon. Next would be testing the coil, then any tests for the ignition control. I've tested them before (on different tractors that is) but would have to refer back to the manual for exact steps. 

Edited by TC10284

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Snoopy11
30 minutes ago, TC10284 said:

 

Depends if it continues to act up. It still does that strange idle sound, but it runs great otherwise. 

 

I'm going to test to see if the seat switch works soon. Next would be testing the coil, then any tests for the ignition control. I've tested them before (on different tractors that is) but would have to refer back to the manual for exact steps. 

I sounds a little like a fuel issue... but without running all of those tests... it is hard to say...:confusion-confused:

 

In my experience, a bad igy coil module will not even allow the engine to crank... but I guess it could be an anomaly?

 

Don

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