Yet Another Paint Thread

[Gregor 4,838]

This is not about painting a Wheel Horse per se, it’s just about painting. I read something on this forum a while back about painting with a Preval spray system. I thought I ought to try it out, so I did. I took my Lawn Boy Loafer apart, and took all the larger pieces to a local auto body man.

 

 

I then took it all to the media blaster to get blasted. I kept some small parts to paint myself, using single stage automotive paint, and the Preval sprayer.

My painter told me what type of paint to get, and where to get it. It was an auto body supply center. The woman there was very knowledgeable. She told me what I needed, and how to mix it. It was a single stage paint, mixed 4-2-1. 4 parts paint, 2 parts reducer, 1 part hardener. I mixed, 8 oz. of paint, 4 oz. of reducer, and 2 oz. of hardener. This gave me 14 oz. of product to spray, which was about 3 times as much as I needed for the parts I had. These are the products I bought, and the primer I used. The videos I watched suggested using a light colored primer for red or blue paint, but I have always liked this primer, so I used it for this also. Total paint and supplies cost, not including primer and sprayers, $202. Time will tell if it was worth it.

 

 

The Preval sprayer was also available at the auto body supply center, cheaper actually than the, “Jungle Book.” About $8,00

 

 

 

 

My painter told me to get 2 quarts of paint. I thought that was a lot, but I did it. After mixing 1 quart per instruction, you actually end up with 56 oz. of product to spray. (if I have my numbers right). 2 quarts = 112 oz. That’s 8 typical rattle cans. I think that is more than enough for this mower.

I didn’t turn my entire garage into a paint booth this time, but I did cover the floor. I’m glad I did, these sprayers put out a lot of paint with the push of the button. More than I am use to with rattle cans.

The conditions in my garage were 72 degrees, 35% humidity. The door was opened occasionally for air! 

 

The paint was dry to the touch in 1 ½ hours. From what I have read, single stage paint should be left to dry for 18 hours. I suppose this would depend on the paint, and the amount of hardener used.

 

When spraying with rattle cans it’s often mentioned how important it is to maintain a “wet” look. This seems to be easier to do with this paint, to me anyway.

Tomorrow or the next day, I will post pics of the finished pieces.

 

 

Edited October 23, 2021 by Gregor

[rmaynard 14,851]

My only question is...did you use proper breathing protection?

[Gregor 4,838]

Just now, rmaynard said:

My only question is...did you use proper breathing protection?

Apparently not.  My head hurts.

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

3 hours ago, Gregor said:

Apparently not.  My head hurts.

 

Those isocyanates are some bad stuff and nothing to mess around with. That gal should have sold you a disposable resparator too!! I worked in the body shop and painted, just the smell of paint chokes me up now. 

 

 

 

Randy

[76c12091520h 3,261]

2 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

 

Those isocyanates are some bad stuff and nothing to mess around with. That gal should have sold you a disposable resparator too!! I worked in the body shop and painted, just the smell of paint chokes me up now. 

 

 

 

Randy

Disposable respirator (charcoal filters)  doesn't cut it for isocyanates, needs to be a fresh a supplied respirator (but it would be better than nothing....

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

7 minutes ago, 76c12091520h said:

Disposable respirator (charcoal filters)  doesn't cut it for isocyanates, needs to be a fresh a supplied respirator (but it would be better than nothing....

 

We didn't have fresh air supplied respirators when I painted and I only have a few tremors!!  For the home use guy, they will work fine especially with good ventilation. 

 

 

Randy

[Gregor 4,838]

In one of the videos I watched, it explained that clear coat was not necessary, because this paint has hardener in it. It went on to explain that this paint could be clear coated, which would aid in the protection against UV, and scratches. I lightly sanded one piece, and clear coated it. I really couldn't tell any difference after.

One of the reasons I opted for this system was the ability to have a color mixed to my liking. After searching a long time for a rattle can paint that would match my Lawn Boy, I never found anything I liked. This was custom blended, and matched perfectly. Since painting these pieces, I think I will go ahead and paint everything myself. It doesn't seem to be too hard to do, and besides, my paint guy quoted $400 to $500 to paint the following parts, with my paint. I thought that was high.

 

Edited October 24, 2021 by Gregor

[Bob Lister 141]

 I have been in the auto body business for just under 50 years.  Clear coating a solid color will not change the look (it is clear)  with mettalic colors the clear will add depth to the color.  Clear will add UV protection to any color, red and yellow are very prone to fading without clear if left in the sun.  Single stage paints leave an overspray mess everywhere  in the shop  basecoat/clearcoat will not.  For the past 20 years I have been working from home in a 24X26 garage I put a piece of 4x4 under the overhead door for air intake and a box fan in a rear window for exhaust. I don't paint after dark in summer as the bugs are attracted to the lights. In winter I have a hot air furnace so can paint anytime. All my painting is base coat clear coat now as that is what all cars are painted with and even my hobby tractor work is done the same to keep things simple. 

[Gregor 4,838]

54 minutes ago, Bob Lister said:

All my painting is base coat clear coat now as that is what all cars are painted with

Excuse my ignorance, I assume the answer is obvious, but I just want to be sure. Base coat / Clear coat is NOT a SINGLE STAGE painting system. Correct?

[76c12091520h 3,261]

4 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Excuse my ignorance, I assume the answer is obvious, but I just want to be sure. Base coat / Clear coat is NOT a SINGLE STAGE painting system. Correct?

Correct, hence the name "2 stage", 1st stage is your base coat, 2nd stage is your clearcoat.  

[Gregor 4,838]

Can single stage paint be clear coated? Any do's and dont's?

[adsm08 1,429]

2 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Can single stage paint be clear coated? Any do's and dont's?

I am far from a professional in this area, but I was always taught that you had to be careful that your various layers were compatible, because if they weren't, and the lower layer wasn't fully cured (which can take months without a booth and lamp) the chemical out-gassing from it continuing to dry can bubble the next layer.

[Gregor 4,838]

I will paint my current project with single stage, since I already have $200 in paint. The next one will be base/clear.

[Bob Lister 141]

 I didn't mean to say single stage paints were bad.  There are different single stage paints also. You have acrylic enamels usually mixed with a hardener but they will still dry without. This was what most complete paint jobs were painted with before urethane paint became popular.  As the auto makers started having problems with acid rain or chemicals from environment damaging paint even before cars were sold the came out with urethane paint systems.  A urethane paint requires a cataylist  to cure it is not the same as paint drying. Mixing ratios are important with urethanes to achieve good results.  Single stage urethanes are not a lot different than two stage urethanes as they work with a catayist to cure but the color coat is the final coat.  Two stage paints are a color coat without a catayist that is fast drying and usually drys to a flat or satin finish then you topcoat with a clear urethane that does have a cataylist.  To make things even more difficult for body shop painters they came out with 3 stage paints ( mostly whites) that are a solid color base with a pearl coat second stage and the the clear coat on top. As a body gut I will never ever own a 3 stage white car due to how difficult it is to match the colors. I would use what you have and follow the directions on the can, to clear over it could cause problems some immediate but even if you do a test panel and it works ok it could also become a problem later such as clear delamination such as many GM cars suffered when they first started with clear coat. From my own experience yellow and red tend to fade the fastest so a single stage red will still be fine but should not be left out in sunlight all the time.  

 I am not a chemist  I have gone to several paint seminars put on by BASF and they always say the most important part of a urethane paint is to follow directions and mixing ratios are especially important

Edited November 1, 2021 by Bob Lister

[rmaynard 14,851]

12 hours ago, Gregor said:

Can single stage paint be clear coated? Any do's and dont's?

Generally, there would be no reason to clear coat a single stage urethane since it is super glossy to begin with.