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Bill D

Air compressor after cooler.

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Snoopy11
3 hours ago, Bill D said:

Derale 15300 trans cooler

Are you planning to use a fan to blow air onto the cooler core? 

 

Might work out well if you use an 120v fan blowing onto the cooler core...

 

Don

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Bill D
4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Are you planning to use a fan to blow air onto the cooler core? 

 

Might work out well if you use an 120v fan blowing onto the cooler core...

 

Don

I was going to mount it to the belt guard in front of the fan for the pump.  My compressor is a 5 HP Champion with a 60 gallon tank.

 

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Snoopy11
34 minutes ago, Bill D said:

I was going to mount it to the belt guard in front of the fan for the pump.  My compressor is a 5 HP Champion with a 60 gallon tank.

 

Sounds good. 

 

You really are a tinkerer... aren't you? :happy-smileyinthebox:

 

Don

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Jeff-C175
5 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

outlet dryer

 

Sometimes when I need to cool off I spray myself with the air hose and get a nice 'mini shower'.  (YES, I know it's not a good practice, I live "on the edge" ! )

 

I have a dryer (separator actually) on my compressor but it's too close to the compressor to do much good.  I need to correct that situation... someday.

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Bill D
5 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Sounds good. 

 

You really are a tinkerer... aren't you? :happy-smileyinthebox:

 

Don

Yep.  The wife says I'm a horder too!  Working on that.

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tom2p
12 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Sometimes when I need to cool off I spray myself with the air hose and get a nice 'mini shower'.  (YES, I know it's not a good practice, I live "on the edge" ! )

 

I have a dryer (separator actually) on my compressor but it's too close to the compressor to do much good.  I need to correct that situation... someday.


the drier / desiccant dryer / trap / whatever should stop water regardless of the location 

 

correct ?

 

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Jeff-C175
10 minutes ago, tom2p said:


the drier / desiccant dryer / trap / whatever should stop water regardless of the location 

 

correct ?

 

 

If the air out of the compressor is hot it will still hold the moisture as vapor and not be removed by a separator.

 

It's best to put the separators near the point of use so the air can cool somewhat, and the vapor turns to liquid allowing the separator to remove it.

 

In theory a refrigerated drier should work wherever it is placed but I believe would work better at a distance.

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Snoopy11
4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

If the air out of the compressor is hot it will still hold the moisture as vapor and not be removed by a separator.

 

It's best to put the separators near the point of use so the air can cool somewhat, and the vapor turns to liquid allowing the separator to remove it.

 

In theory a refrigerated drier should work wherever it is placed but I believe would work better at a distance.

:text-yeahthat:

 

Best explanation you are going to get right there...

 

Don

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Snoopy11
12 hours ago, Bill D said:

Yep.  The wife says I'm a horder too!  Working on that.

Join the club...

 

Our shop has everything you could imagine... and literally the kitchen sink...

 

I need to go to the dump... but that would take my whole paycheck... :ROTF:

 

Don

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Jeff-C175
56 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

I need to go to the dump

 

I hit the local recycler place this past weekend and came back with $172.00

 

Two buck for the aluminum radiator and $170 for 70 pounds of mixed brass and copper.

 

#2 copper is paying $2.95 a pound!  Brass is $1.70

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

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ri702bill

All:

A funny and true story about water laying in the piping. Back in the 1980's I worked as an assembler for a specialty Machine Tool house - we were contracted to fabricate and assemble a working prototype foe a well known Japanese punch press company. The original metric drawings were reworked to allow the use of domestic (fractional) steel and purchased items. The item was a 20 foot tall automated storage rack that had 5 moving shelves loaded with various gauge thickness of 4 x 8 foot sheet metal. There was an arm with 30 or so vacuum cups using air to vacuum generators to lift the sheet. It worked well picking up the thinner sheets but struggled with the thicker heavier sheets and would drop them.

The fateful day came for the acceptance run at rate with the Japanese staff present. Our General Manager "Charlie" told me to remove the shutoff valve from the 1-1/2" pipe saying it was restricting the air flow leading to the 1-1/4" air feed hose to the vacuum generators. I said that was not a good idea and he says "I'm the Boss - do as you are told!". We had to shut the whole plant down to remove that valve, but I did as requested.

We start the runoff and about 5 minutes in a large slug of water that had been laying in the iron piping gets to the machine and we notice a red rust cloud coming out of the generator exhaust mufflers - enough that there was a layer of red fog behind the machine about 4 foot tall!. Charlie says to me "OK, shut it off". I hold up the valve in my hand and ask "What, with this??" Charlie is going to be a hero and single handedly grabs the 1-1/4" air hose and manages to bend it in half like you would do with a garden hose and tries to get a clamp on it. The hose ruptures, he lets go and it is whipping in all directions spewing red rusty water like a firehose - in the process the head customer gets soaked head to toe with the rusty water - the bonus was that it also blew the toupee off his head!!! Charlie was history the next day.

Bill

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Pops

My setup a cheap harbor freight cabinet (the actual part that I used). Changed to high volume low pressure, I set mine at 45, and use a high grade media.

I changed the setup from siphon to pressure with foot peddle, and higher grade nozzle. I changed the viewing window used  the double strength glass that comes with cabinet got rid of plastic sheets and use glass from Lowes $4.00 as the sacrificial glass. Changed the window so it can be change from the outside. Sealed each piece of the sheet medal as it went together and used appropriate screws and bolts that actually fit. Changed the air and vacuum ports (swapped positions). Their setup pulls media out to a greater extent, tried shops vacs did not do a good job. I took a chance on the dust and media collector from Harbor freight with a cyclone, works great no dust escape. Before I made the air after cooler the system would get stopped up with wet media after about 5 minutes. After researching several ways I went with simplest, had a lot of the material

(Copper pipe) on hand. Changed the lights,these were the majors changes. The changes were not cheap, but it is now a pleasure to use, Only if it was bigger.

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Edited by Pops
I realize now that I put this in the wrong area, sorry guys
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Pops

Sorry guys I now realize that I put this in the wrong area 

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Jeff-C175
53 minutes ago, Pops said:

Sorry guys I now realize that I put this in the wrong area 

 

I don't think you did?  That's what we're talking about, the 'after cooler', isn't it?

 

I'm looking at all the designs that I can find.  Many employ VERTICAL piping with a drip loop at the bottom of each one and I'm not sure why they would be vertical.

 

I like Pops' design with the horizontal, and a slight pitch to each pipe so the water flows down hill to a single collection point.

 

 

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squonk

The  key is the distance / feet the air travels to get it a chance to cool some to start condensing water out of the air. Richard's underground air line is a Giant cooler. As long as there is a drain or a separator to get the water out it should work well. PVC underground is fine as it will transfer the heat of the air to the cool dirt better than metal and won't rust.

 

As far as the filter right at the compressor yes it will work but you would need multiple filters to catch all the water and they would foul quickly.

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953 nut

The line from my compressor has a low-point drain outside the barn. Moisture in the hot air from the compressor will condense out in the underground line and work its way back to the trap where it can be blown out by the air pressure. All it takes is a "T", two 90s and a ball valve.

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MikMacMike

I still plan to add another bottle dryer ahead of the dryer yu see there. I used and bent soft copper over to the 4- 3/4" hard copper tubes mounted vertically on side of regulator cabinet. At the bottom of the 4 hard copper tubes is a bucket filled with water. After the 4 copper tubes i went back in to the air tank again with soft copper. From the tank i used blue plastic to the regulator cabinet. 1st entering the bottle dryer them soldered a 1 into 4 header which has a pressure guage indicating header pressure. Starting at the top of cabinet i split the line to 2 small regulators for air brushing. Below that 1 line goes to 2 more larger regulators. The bottom regulator i plan to add an automatic oiler for power tools. The upper large reg will be used for painting...no oil. At the very bottom is just a straight through line using full pressure straight from tank for blowing full pressure. In the last pic it showes all 5 lines with quick connects that run to my variouse flexable hoses. Oh there is also a guage i fogot to mention ahead of the bottle moisture separator....this way i can see by using the 2 guages when my separator has to be cleaned by seeing the difference in the 2 guages pressures. So far after 20 years all is still working perfect.

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