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Gregor

Synthetic

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Gregor

I drained the oil, and replaced the filter on the trans of my C-125. The book calls for 5 qts.  Straight 10W30 is  getting hard to find. Is synthetic ok? I'm sure not ALL the oil came out.

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squonk

Mobil 1 10w30- or 40

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Maxwell-8
Posted (edited)

Got me some Castrol 10w40 synthetic. Has mineral oil in it now I guess (but very clean!). Once I get mine running, after the first couple hours I will change mine again.

 

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Edited by Maxwell-8
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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I drained the oil, and replaced the filter on the trans of my C-125. The book calls for 5 qts.  Straight 10W30 is  getting hard to find. Is synthetic ok? I'm sure not ALL the oil came out.

 

 

Whether or not you can switch back and forth between synthetic and non-synthetic or blend synthetic and non-synthetic has been discussed in many different places and times and I remember seeing in multiple different places that not being able to mix them or switch back and forth is a myth. 

 

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OutdoorEnvy

I have switched between the three and have never had an issue.  That's lawn equipment and vehicles.  I haven't intentionally mixed them but if the situation called for I would in a pinch and not worry about it. 

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Stepney
Posted (edited)

I don't like running synthetic in older engines due to lack of zinc, only engine here with synthetic oil is my old Subaru.. but it has had the stuff since new. Lord knows what would happen to my tired 85 Ford..

As for WH rear ends. I use synthetic in every hydro I own. My Sundstrands get synthetic Type A ATF, the Eaton's get 15w40 Shell Rotella T6.. Every Eaton I have ever owned has been horrible in the cold, take ages to move or lift. Now they're dead quiet and move easily once started. I've never had an issue that was caused by oil in that instance. 

Edited by Stepney
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kpinnc
59 minutes ago, Stepney said:

I don't like running synthetic in older engines due to lack of zinc

 

Vanguard makes small engine synthetics with zinc added for that very reason. I have also seen Amsoil for air cooled engines with zinc as well, though I can't remember the weight. I think you can find synthetics for motorcycles also with zinc additives. You just have to find one of these in the desired weight range.

 

I know that the oil type/ weight/ dino and synthetic saga has many different outcomes online, and the discussion tends to go on forever without answering the original question sometimes.

 

But I will say that mixing synthetic and dino because you can't get all of the original out will not cause issues. Many oils now come as synthetic blend, and that is exactly what it is- parts of both.

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Stepney
4 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

Vanguard makes small engine synthetics with zinc added for that very reason. I have also seen Amsoil for air cooled engines with zinc as well, though I can't remember the weight. I think you can find synthetics for motorcycles also with zinc additives. You just have to find one of these in the desired weight range.

 

I know that the oil type/ weight/ dino and synthetic saga has many different outcomes online, and the discussion tends to go on forever without answering the original question sometimes.

 

But I will say that mixing synthetic and dino because you can't get all of the original out will not cause issues. Many oils now come as synthetic blend, and that is exactly what it is- parts of both.

Local supply is the issue there. No place around here carries anything of the sort, and charge extra to ship it in. Regular old VR1 or Rotella does just fine in an old Kohler anyways. 

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Maxwell-8

Zinc is really important in older engines, mainly for the flat tappets in these small engines.  Cars and Camera's on YouTube had an engine recently get destroyed due to the lack of zinc in the engine oil.

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peter lena
 
Tuneup

I would always put synth in these auto transmissions though 5 quarts will be costly. I have the low brow Eaton 7 in my 516 and it's a different machine with synth 15W-50. 10-30 fairly common down here. Tractor Supply has a good selection. Those straight weights are harder to find but, again, Tractor Supply has 30 and 40.

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kpinnc
20 hours ago, Stepney said:

Regular old VR1 or Rotella does just fine in an old Kohler anyways

 

Yep, good stuff for the splash lube engines. Rotella straight 30w. One of the few straight weights still easy to find. 

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ebinmaine

You folks that can't find oils locally....

 

I order a fair amount of things online. 

Oils and lubes have now made that list for me. 

 

I've started ordering Kinetix engine oil online as well. 

Price is fair. Shipped to my door. All the right levels of zinc phosphate. 

 

 

I can't attest to the long term facts but it looks good on paper for now. 

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lynnmor

I believe that the subject is transmission oil.  He used the word "straight" when I believe he meant oil that is not synthetic that is 10W-30.  That type of oil is available anywhere.  I use Castrol 10W-30 high mileage oil that is a synthetic blend in my hydro transmissions with good results.  High mileage oils usually have a bit more anti-wear additives, and synthetic oils usually flow better over a wide range of temperatures.  The high zinc oils mentioned above should be good for a transmission as well if available in 10W-30.  I use Kohler 30W high zinc in my engines and Kohler also has a 10W-30 high zinc that may be great for a transmission.

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tom2p

 

I've used multi-grade synthetic oil in just about everything since the mid / late 80's 

 

including Wheel Horse tractors - Kohler powered 704 and 312 - Onan powered 416


I've stretched oil change intervals (too long) - engine and hydro on the 416 - and performance and reliability have been good 


I used Mobil 1 almost exclusively until just a few years ago when they began to d!ck around with their formulas and more recently with their ridiculous marketing /  extended oil change interval recommendations 

 

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