PTO Clutch Removal 520Lxi

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

I need some more info. My "520Lxi" Kawasaki Engine needs some help. I need to do a rebuild on the engine and check to see if the faulty cam has been replaced (plastic gear original). In the 50+ years I've messing with these red tractors, I've never had an electric PTO clutch before. I've only had the manual clutches. I've been searching this site for info, but haven't found anything helpful. Anyone have the info for removing the clutch assembly from the crankshaft?  I'd appreciate the help. Engine is out & on the workbench. Pushed the rolling chassis out & gunk'd it today. Flywheel side crank seal had given up and everything was nasty.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Have found nothing on the clutch removal process.

 

If you remove the bolt is the rusted fitting it goes into threaded on the inside for a larger bolt thread? If so a bolt that size is threaded into the hole until it bottoms on the end of the crankshaft. Then as it is tightened it pushes the crankshaft out of the clutch. This is just a guess and the procedure for much earlier models which I believe used a 5/8" or 3/4" bolt.

 

You do have the service manual for the 5xi series?

 

Garry

 

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

Thanks for the reply.  I checked the (rusty) part that the end bolt goes through.  There isn't any I.D. threads a you discussed.  I do not have a service manual for my tractor.  I got the Owners manual for the tractor & mower deck, but no service manual.  I've searched the sites and found Kawasaki engine service info and a lot of electrical drawings, but still haven't come across any PTO clutch removal info.  I found instruction on how to test it.  Anyone else out there with the knowledge?  Thanks!      Bill

Edited May 19, 2021 by Bill Schlesselman
Better wording

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Post your tractor's model and serial number and will do more searching.

 

Garry

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

I can not say it enough.  You guys are fantastic.  I downloaded and saved the 3 part service manuals. Thank you, thank you!   I went to the garage and studied the clutch and came to the conclusion it just slides off the end of the crank after removing the hex bolt in the end of the crank. I took a small brass rod and a very small hammer and lightly tap, tap, tap and the assembly slide off the crank.   It's a 1998 520Lxi with the Kawasaki engine. Thanks.   Here's the tractor numbers:

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,539]

Glad you figured it out. That sounds like an ideal spot for some Never-Seize on reassembly so the tap tap tap is preserved.

 

A search of our Files for 73545 brings up these 22 topics.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=73545&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

Thanks, Guys!  Today's a wash-out for me, won't have time to work on it.  I'm on the volunteer mowing crew at our radio control club field and we're mowing today.  I have to lower my standards today and use a (yellow & white) brand mower to cut the 100 X 1000 foot runway at the field.  Big show coming up on the holiday weekend. "Dawn Patrol" event with WW1 aircraft only.  Thanks for all the help!  Bill

 

[BenN 0]

Can anyone tell me how to get the plate that’s behind the clutch off (I guess it’s the crank case cover not sure if that’s what it’s called I am definitely not a mechanic) mine is blowing coolant out from between that plate and the engine block above the dipstick, I have the clutch and all that off and there was about 12 bolts that I assumed held the cover on but it’s still not coming off and I am afraid pry on it without knowing what I am doing I saw it’s about $1200 so I sure can’t afford to damage it. Does the shaft the clutch is mounted to have to come off or will it stay in place and the plate slide off over it. 
 Thanks for any help couldn’t afford to take it to the shop but sure can’t afford to break it 

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

That is the crankcase cover. First, are you sure it's the gasket between the crankcase cover & the engine block and not the water pump gasket? To remove the case cover, the engine must be removed from the steel engine mounting plate under it. The engine mounts to the plate with 4 bolts thru the plate & straight up into the bottom of the engine block. Two of the bolts thread into the block (rear bolts) & 2 thread up into the crankcase side cover (front bolts). So, the engine has to be removed from the mount plate before the crankcase cover will come loose from the block. Mine was spitting coolant droplets all over the case cover, but I finally traced it down to the water pump seal. The pump has a weep hole under the pump seal area and when the pump seal gives out, coolant weeps from that hole. Pulling the crankcase side cover is a major operation and if you're not a good mechanic, I don't recommend going inside the block. There are some other things to consider before opening the block up. Valve adjustment (tension) must be backed off to release the spring pressure off the cam. Both the crankshaft and one end of the cam rotate inside bearing bores in the crankcase cover. Without releasing the valve spring tension, you may not be able to reassemble the side cover, because the spring tension will be forcing the cam downward, causing it to be misaligned during reassembly. Do you have any friends with engine rebuild experience? This really is a job for someone with experience.    Hope this helps you! 

Bill

 or can guide you during the job. Also, the oil pump is inside the crankcase side cover and drives from the camshaft drive gear. There are a few things that have to be aligned as the side cover is re-installed to the block. My engine was worn out and required an overhaul. It was blowing oil from the breather and soaking the air cleaner in oil, and the crankshaft seal were dumping oil all out the place. Been using the rebuilt 520Lxi all summer so far and just loving it. Heck of a mower and a real good 60" deck (I also rebuilt). 

 

 

[BenN 0]

OK thanks that definitely helps I was afraid it was going to be more involved than just pulling it off and replace the seal it sounds like I might be better off just putting in some overtime at work and letting a someone that knows what they are doing handle this, I was hoping it was just the water pump gasket but I am pretty sure it’s not it was actually blowing a stream out from by the dipstick (from by my finger in this pic) also seems to have started leaking oil from both valve covers pretty bad I hope there is not something bigger wrong with it but was still running OK when I shut it off. I really appreciate the info

[Bill Schlesselman 29]

Did the engine oil get milky looking? Coolant in the engine oil? If so, that all has to be cleaned out. There is a 3-part service manual available on-line free. It lists all the tolerances required to be able to verify if the engine is within factory specs for rebuilding. if you're going into it internally, you may want to freshen it up, since the engine has to be pulled anyway. Last fall, I searched the web for "Kawasaki FD-620-D" parts and found an overhaul kit that included all gaskets, crank seals, flywheel side "crank plane" (babbitt bearing), pistons, rings, wrist pins, about everything ya need for a rebuild. It was about $225 for everything. Mine was blowing oil out everywhere, because the piston rings gave up. The rings are pretty thin and I really wasn't very impressed with the factory design. On my engine, the breather hose that directs the crankcase gases into the bottom of the air cleaner housing, was blowing pretty hard, causing oil vapor to soak the air filter. That most likely indicates the rings have given up, causing blow-by past the rings which needs replacing. After my rebuild, that stopped the engine's hard breathing. I've been using my 520Lxi all this year and the oil hasn't even gotten dirty. I'm cutting an acre+ on a weekly basis. It's a heck of a mower. I bought mine for 2 reasons: I needed a project to keep myself busy & I'm a die-hard Wheel Horse fan! By the time I got the engine done and rebuilt the 60" deck complete, I had about $600 in new parts, including a new PTO clutch. It's been my main hobby for well over 50 years. I have 7 Wheel Horses, ranging from 1964 to my Lxi is a 1998. Good luck with it! 

P.S.   Don't hesitate to put a new water pump on it while you're assembling. I found one new on-line for $14. Protect that lower radiator hose! There is only one source for that hose (TORO), and it was $74 a year ago.  I've been using "Jack's" for minor replacement parts. 

   Bill