Ignition switch wiring - '73 D

[Brakechute 1]

First off, I apologize if this has been covered before but I didn't find it in my search.

Because I'm a cheapskate, I replaced a corroded ignition switch on my 18-Automatic with a generic 4-terminal ignition ($8 vs $30). I have used these many times in the past on dune buggies, go karts, and other tractors and they usually work great.

The original had the rectifier connected to it's own terminal.  It is my understanding that, in run position, all terminals except the solenoid "start" line are directly connected.  So, I just doubled the rectifier wire onto the Ignition terminal on my cheapo switch.  Now it seems that it's not charging. Tried again on the Acc terminal with the same result.

Does anyone know if there is any special reason (an internal diode maybe?) why the rectifier got it's own terminal on the "right" switch?  I may have fried the rectifier, broken a wire or done something else stupid (still have to wring it all out) but figured I'd throw it out there since that was the only known change.  Thanks.

[pacer 3,176]

I get my original 5 terminal type switch at my local Oreillys for something like .... $12-14. Have also seen them at Advance, NAPA & other auto parts. They usually have both your type and another for the later electronic types --- (an "M" position??)

[Brakechute 1]

Thanks, I'll have to look.  I have seen a bunch of 5 terminal ones online cheap, but they don't claim to be compatible with the Wheel Horse/Toro part numbers (only the expensive ones do) so I figured if there is a difference and I was going to use a "wrong" one, I'd use one I was familiar with 

 

[953 nut 59,253]

This manual should be helpful. You may have a wire with a bad connection at the regulator/rectifier, check it out.