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bo dawg

How to change barings out?

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bo dawg

Got the spindle off the deck and took the clip off and pulled the shaft out, but now not sure how to take the baring out on the blade end :omg: the baring on the pully end is tight. So corroded can't tell what to look at. I've never worked on one before so this is my first. Heres some pics, let me know where to start.

DSC01373.jpg

DSC01372.jpg

Heres the deck that needs welded. Do you think its fixable?

DSC01375.jpg

thanks

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Red Horse

Bo, The easiest way to remove the needle bearing in the spindle housing is to use an arbor press. If one is not available do the following: get a piece of bar stock thats the same size as the OD of the needle bearing in the housing. Soak the housing with Liquid Wrench, Kroil or PB Blaster. Note the location of where the bearing is located on the spindle housing.After letting it soak in and do it's peneratrating job, proceed to place the bar stock vertically on top of the bearing. Tap on the bar stock to push it through the other end. If you don't have any bar stock a deep well socket will do. DON"T strike too hard. Nice and steady. If it's really stuck you might need to get to someone's hydraulic "H" frame arbor press. Most automotive shops have them. The trick is to apply pressure evenly on the bearing. The same is the story with tryig to remove the spindle from the cup. This time if you don't have an arbor press,place the spindle cup straddling the jaws of a vise keeping the spindle between the jaws. Get a piece of stock slightly smaller than the spindle. Start using the penetrating oil and then get your hammer and begin striking the spindle. Be careful not to mushroom the spindle by striking too hard. If it won't budge. Go to the automotive "H" frame press and push the spindle out hydraulically. Good luck with your project.

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WheelHorse_of_course

BTW, I think you can get the upper bearings from MFG supply (it is listed in the minibike parts section).

The lower bearing can be bought from Small Parts

:drool: :omg:

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Lane Ranger

Bo Dawg: My brother and I have also used dowell rod about the size of the bearing opening with a rubber mallet. After soaking with Kroil, BP Blaster or a similar lubricant.

As some other folks have said on Red Square and done it's not too bad of an idea to video tape your work as you start and initiate so you have a ready "reference" to refer back too. You can measure etc also.

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bo dawg

I appreciate all the help guy's, but one problem is I can't see where the housing and needle bearing come together, to corroded to tell. How big is the bearing and how does it fit on?

I can see the other end clearly, easy to see how its connected to remove. Any one have a better, cleaner spindle picture to look at, or better yet one already taken apart? If I could see each piece I could understand how to operate on it, you know what I mean? Then I can follow you guy's steps.

Thats just how I am...difficult :omg:

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linen beige

Having new bearings in hand might help you visualize it better. And insure that you have what you need to put it back together before you invest more time in disassembly.

As rust covered as the housing is it looks like a good candidate for a few hours in an electrolysis tank. Not only would that clean up the outside, it should make it a lot easier to push out the old bearing race.

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KyBlue

Exactly what I was going to post Jim.

As to fixing the deck, if it were me...cutting out the bad place and welding in new metal... go 1/2 to 1 beyond the cracked area...

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bo dawg

Well...I don't have a electrolysis tank or anything close to it, so it looks like hard knocks for me. :omg:

Next question, what is the replacement bearings? what am I asking for. Do I go through Toro?

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