Jump to content
pullstart

Xi Series front axle pivot repair

Recommended Posts

pullstart

I am creating this thread in hopes that it’ considered for the instructional section of the forum.

 

Richard mentioned that the swept axle contributed to this failure and I 100% agree.  The Xi front pin is 7/8” and has a 1/4” plate welded to the pin in the rear and the front of the pin rides on a 5/8” course thread shank in the 1/4” front frame section.  Kicking tires, this wear isn’t very noticeable.  Picking the tractor up however, you can see the entire axle pivot downward.  

I had the tractor off the ground, so I began by pulling the spindles apart, then the axle itself dropped out.

 

 

 

39CD1BDE-3935-46C7-864D-1BD782C6F17B.jpeg

032C632F-35D9-40BB-AACE-8A548CD804AA.jpeg

62373BDE-6747-4AC9-A178-B85CA687744C.jpeg

1D5B8EFB-F54A-4FEF-B329-2A91C35C05A0.jpeg

  • Excellent 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart

I machined a 2”x2”x1/2” block with a 7/8” hole in it.  Using the existing hole as a guide, I marked the worn frame for clearancing.  The oblong hole is tough to drill on center, so I opened it up with a 1/4” carbide burr in my die grinder.  It was mentioned that due to the nature of this wear, the bottom of the hole is pretty much untouched, so that’s a guide.  Once the hole was clearanced, I used a step drill to bring it to 7/8”.

 

 

 

 

433EDD3A-1D10-461A-AFD0-884ABA99C531.png

E8BEA384-E4E1-4A6B-A5DC-6D62D10A8173.jpeg

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart

I then grabbed a 1” solid bar and turned it down on the lathe to .872”, just under 7/8” (.875”).  I made it about 5” long and I think I needed 4.5” to get through both frame sections, the new block, and the rear bracket.  I tapped a 3/8”-16 hole in one end of the shaft.

 

After thoroughly cleaning the frame area, I slid the pin through all three holes as a locator.  After a couple tack welds and a check to make sure the pin still could move, I burned it in with the MIG welder.

6E34C8A4-63EE-404E-8162-9A18F7C751F8.jpeg

D0C44D95-5C8E-4A22-8CAB-DDBF1AA5B895.jpeg

E1FA1B34-165D-459E-87A0-5C84304A9E3E.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart

The rear plate needed to be drilled out, then it was bolted into place.  I left the new pin just short of the front plate, maybe 1/16”.  It was more of a feel than a measurement.  My thought was that I’ll pinch the frame plates together with the front 3/8 bolt.  Once again, I reached through the loader subframe with the MIG and pulled the trigger.  Having this elevated from the floor made the job much more pleasant.  A few other notes, I had the battery and the front body work off for easy access as well.

 

 

 

 

B3CA40AD-33C9-4132-8FE1-865B72927807.jpeg

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart

Some more clean up work, then paint, then re-assembly.  I found this new spray paint on the clearance rack at the local ACE a year or so ago, it’s epoxy appliance repair paint.  It dries super fast and gets hard and glossy too.  
 

I put the tractor back on the ground and cannot believe how smooth and tight this thing is!  I also cleaned off the workbench in time for buhbuhque steaks for dinner!

5F94CA2E-7AFC-4FB8-8F96-BA0C06CE64C9.jpeg

A4B37C27-C86E-4195-A1F1-1AD6BBC1D96F.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 3
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart

And a video to sum all of this up...

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM

Good job Kev.....made me check the 1500HR xi FEL. It needs done too!

I need new front tires so when that happens the pivot will get repaired. 

:handgestures-thumbup:

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pollack Pete

Nice Job.Nice weld job.Nice looking steaks.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
1 hour ago, pullstart said:

Some more clean up work, then paint, then re-assembly.  I found this new spray paint on the clearance rack at the local ACE a year or so ago, it’s epoxy appliance repair paint.  It dries super fast and gets hard and glossy too.  
 

I put the tractor back on the ground and cannot believe how smooth and tight this thing is!  I also cleaned off the workbench in time for buhbuhque steaks for dinner!

 

 

Right frame of mind, right tools, right skills, and some time.  Nicely done!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Skwerl58

Thanks for the repair info. I like what comes in your pizza boxes there! Give me a steak any time!!

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pullstart
1 hour ago, Pollack Pete said:

Nice looking steaks.


First bbq of the season... I cooked ‘em like the welds on the tractor :hide:  

 

1 hour ago, JoeM said:

Good job Kev.....made me check the 1500HR xi FEL. It needs done too!

I need new front tires so when that happens the pivot will get repaired. 

:handgestures-thumbup:

 

I can’t imagine a FEL loaded and that pin blowing out...

 

Thanks for the props guys.  I’ve been welding for 2 weeks straight on this thing, first time I grabbed the MIG yet.  It sure goes fast just pulling the trigger!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM

Had the daughters xi in for a oil leak issue, (turned out to be that quarter turn drain valve), replaced with an 3/8 nipple and hex cap. But anyway, looked up and seen the dreaded loose pivot pin issue. 

I did notice when running it to heat up the oil for drain the steering seemed funky. 

 

The machine has 863 hours, and is in pretty good condition. The PO took decent care of it. Was plenty of grease in everything. So looking at the failure  I was trying to put my finger on the whys.

 

Pretty beefy set up. The frame is 1/4", pin 3/4" and the threaded area 5/8". I don't think lack of grease is the failure. Just looking around at the mechanics of the pivot axle, I think the way the axle sweeps forward it puts the most stress on the 5/8" area of the tread. Eventually it wears the frame and binds the axle to the pin. This causes the pin weld failure and the pivoting self machines the pin in the welded cross bar. Even at that point if greased it is toast. The fix Kev made was the best adding the larger pin area will definitely strengthen this area. It is strange how the 520 machines have the 3/4" pin through the entire length of the bore and hold up better.

Toro should have torn a page out of that book.

 

I didn't do the Kev fix but I think the next best thing. (kind of pushed for time you know being retired and all) Rewelded the pin, built up the worn area on the pin. And installed a 3/8" plate to the front frame. 

There was room enough for an 1/2" plate under the threaded keeper nut. 

 

1132948459_AxlePinRepair5.jpg.b03e43295320de9695aaeba86fd927ce.jpg1138558804_AxlePinRepair1.jpg.b10637f580ac51437bc054e8360adf6b.jpg1095455100_AxlePinRepair6.jpg.8281b72fcd41fa7ad138638ff83ee564.jpg

 

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...