Mid belly grader mod

[krystolo 497]

The PO welded this hitch onto the grading blade making it impossible to use under the tractor. 
it can now be used behind the tractor, but it doesn’t seem like one could get much downward pressure with the brinly hitch since it’s not a solid linkage. (I haven’t tried it yet)

 

Is there any benefit to leaving as is?

 

If not, how can I remove the modification?

 

[8ntruck 6,358]

You could always add weight to the blade.  However, this comes at the price of a harder pull on the lift laver to raise it.

 

How to get it off?  Lots of options, all requiring careful work.  A Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel (suicide wheel), a cutting torch or plasma cutter, or a hand powered hack saw.  The ultimate choice of tool will depend on what can reach the area that needs to be cut.

 

Good luck and have fun!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

From what can be seen it may be just bolted on.

 

Garry

[Pullstart 59,563]

2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

From what can be seen it may be just bolted on.

 

Garry

I see that too.  The bracket goes quite a ways back toward the blade.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

 

[krystolo 497]

It's definitely welded on with a pretty thick weld.  

 

I also have the other type of grading blade that connects to the rear attachment point under the tractor.

 

Does this implement work that much differently?  If not, I may just leave it as is.  I guess then I could use both the dozer blade and this blade on the Brinley.  

 

I don't think I have the tools to really get the hitch off and smooth out the attachment rod so that it would fit in the Tach-a-matic brackets.

 

Thoughts?

Edited April 12, 2021 by krystolo
spelling

[seuadr 488]

if you cut off that bracket, you'll need a different arm for the lift:

 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I'd have to return it to original.  Belly mounts grade more evenly than a front or rear blade.  Highs and lows don't affect the mid as much.  Climb up a high spot and the rear blade really dips, not so much for the mid mount.

 

Either a cutting torch or an abrasive blade would be taken to it if it were mine.

[Handy Don 10,566]

15 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

How to get it off?  Lots of options, all requiring careful work.  A Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel (suicide wheel), a cutting torch or plasma cutter, or a hand powered hack saw.  The ultimate choice of tool will depend on what can reach the area that needs to be cut.

 

Good luck and have fun!

Looking at the angles and the manual pictures of the unmodified version, I suspect the Sawmill (or it's cordless little brother, the Hackzall) with a good metal cutting blade will work to get into the area of the weld.

 

6 hours ago, seuadr said:

if you cut off that bracket, you'll need a different arm for the lift:

Not too difficult to fabricate but it is an extra step.

[krystolo 497]

13 hours ago, seuadr said:

if you cut off that bracket, you'll need a different arm for the lift:

 

 

 

Thanks!  I noticed it was different, and not the usual mid-mount attachment.

[krystolo 497]

13 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

I'd have to return it to original.  Belly mounts grade more evenly than a front or rear blade.  Highs and lows don't affect the mid as much.  Climb up a high spot and the rear blade really dips, not so much for the mid mount.

 

Either a cutting torch or an abrasive blade would be taken to it if it were mine.

I also have the other mid-mount grading blade.  Is there much of a difference in function?  I have a sawzall, but no angle grinder or torch.  Worth the effort to seek out someone to do the work?

[krystolo 497]

13 hours ago, seuadr said:

if you cut off that bracket, you'll need a different arm for the lift:

 

 

I don't even know what the existing linkage would hook to.  Remove the connection to the Brinly hitch and attach it to the silver linkage thing?

[seuadr 488]

8 hours ago, krystolo said:

 

I don't even know what the existing linkage would hook to.  Remove the connection to the Brinly hitch and attach it to the silver linkage thing?

i'd guess that is correct - not really sure what else it could hook on to? 

 

[953 nut 51,536]

I would think the rear mounted blade could come in handy for you. You could back into horse stalls, drop the blade and pull whatever gifts the horses have deposited outside.

[seuadr 488]

2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I would think the rear mounted blade could come in handy for you. You could back into horse stalls, drop the blade and pull whatever gifts the horses have deposited outside.

good point. wonder if the "hitch" could be modified to click in so you could have it both ways? kind of a rear attach o matic?

[953 nut 51,536]

When I was working with my home made landscape rake I would chain the mid-mount blade up so I could lower the rake with the blade up. Same thing could be done with the rear blade and mid mount.

[krystolo 497]

39 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I would think the rear mounted blade could come in handy for you. You could back into horse stalls, drop the blade and pull whatever gifts the horses have deposited outside.

Oooh! Good point! I’m going to have to try that out. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

14 hours ago, krystolo said:

I also have the other mid-mount grading blade.  Is there much of a difference in function?  I have a sawzall, but no angle grinder or torch.  Worth the effort to seek out someone to do the work?

I think I forget for a moment.  You got a mid-mount blade with the first Wheel Horse purchase?   A rear mount?  Then I change my mind about you working on this new to you one.  Leave it as is and  just bring it to me and I'll take care of it.

Serious, I don't know and I've even asked before.  Opinions varied I think.  I tend to think the rear would be less likely to just bounce up and over a rock but I really don't know.  And bouncing over a big rock could be a good thing!

 

I'd have to have a grinder with a cutoff.  Even if a cheap Harbor Freight one.  Just be sure to give it plenty of breaks between short working periods.  I've burned up two cheap ones when I should have been using one of my several name brands.  It's something you're gonna have to have a some point.

[krystolo 497]

56 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I think I forget for a moment.  You got a mid-mount blade with the first Wheel Horse purchase?   A rear mount?  Then I change my mind about you working on this new to you one.  Leave it as is and  just bring it to me and I'll take care of it.

Serious, I don't know and I've even asked before.  Opinions varied I think.  I tend to think the rear would be less likely to just bounce up and over a rock but I really don't know.  And bouncing over a big rock could be a good thing!

 

I'd have to have a grinder with a cutoff.  Even if a cheap Harbor Freight one.  Just be sure to give it plenty of breaks between short working periods.  I've burned up two cheap ones when I should have been using one of my several name brands.  It's something you're gonna have to have a some point.

Haha! Hands off my grading blades, buster!

 

The little c160 came with a dozer blade, rear mounted tach-o-matic belly blade, and mid mount tach-o-matic which has been modified to go on the brinly. 
I’m thinking since I already have one mid-mount, I’ll see how putting the modified one on the back works. 

The biggest issue I’ve had with the grading blade so far is getting it stuck in the mud and not being able to move forward or back. I ended up changing holes on the linkage so I can raise it higher, and that has helped. 
 

Not too many rocks around here, fortunately. Just lots of heavy clay. 
 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

1 hour ago, krystolo said:

Haha! Hands off my grading blades, buster!

 

The little c160 came with a dozer blade, rear mounted tach-o-matic belly blade, and mid mount tach-o-matic which has been modified to go on the brinly. 
I’m thinking since I already have one mid-mount, I’ll see how putting the modified one on the back works. 

The biggest issue I’ve had with the grading blade so far is getting it stuck in the mud and not being able to move forward or back. I ended up changing holes on the linkage so I can raise it higher, and that has helped. 
 

Not too many rocks around here, fortunately. Just lots of heavy clay. 
 

Memory better now.  Then I'd say try using what you have, keep and eye out for a grinder and cutoff wheel, restore your new blade and compare the two.  Mid-mounts are like hens teeth around here so I'd doubt you'd have any trouble getting paid for your time and a new grinder.