Jsieao 10 #1 Posted March 28, 2021 First off, thanks for an awesome site. You can get lost in here very quickly and before you know it, a few hours have disappeared!! I've had this transmission buried in a shed for years. A friend gave it to me. I don't recall how long ago and he didn't know what it was short of for a Wheelhorse. I pulled it out today and pulled it apart. Disassembled and cleaned it up. I'm trying to determine exactly what it is and how old it is. I've looked through a number of illustrations in the Transmission manual library and can't find a match. It has 1 1/8" axles & hi/low gearing. The thing that is really odd to me, is that it doesn't have a dip stick tube or hole for one. I've attached a couple of pictures that might help. I wanted to download the correct manual and be able to purchase the correct parts for it. Any help you can provide would be great!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,230 #2 Posted March 28, 2021 Easy...you either have a #5060 or a #5071. It depends on if the plates on the differential are aluminum or steel. The #5071 is steel. It is a 10 pinion limited slip differential and depending on the plates is 1967 - 1969. Only the 5060 &5071 did not have the dip stick. The #5073 did. Your plates on the differential look to be steel...so it is a #5071 it was used on the Raider 10 & Raider 12 in 1969. The 5 bolts holding the differential together give the 10 pinion LS away. Seals, gasket and bearings are available from Lowell (vendor) Wheel Horse Parts and More. Let's see some more pictures. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #5 Posted March 28, 2021 If you have a magnet stick it on the end plates of the differential...I am sooo hesitant to disagree with stevasaurus but they don't look like steel to me to light in color... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,230 #6 Posted March 28, 2021 Paul, you might be right...it was the pealing paint that made me say that. Anyway, here is the book...use it along with those videos. Use section III. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498 #7 Posted March 28, 2021 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jsieao 10 #8 Posted March 28, 2021 5060 it is! The end plates are aluminum. Thanks for all the awesome information! Not sure what I'm going to do with this. One of the hubs is broken from someone trying to remove it years ago. I'll need to get that pressed off. All the gears look to be in good condition. I got tired of looking at it in my shed and felt like messing with something. I don't have many other pictures. If there is something specific you want to see, let me know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,230 #10 Posted March 29, 2021 Yep...#5060 Good call Paul. Everything looks clean and in good shape. If you don't need it, I would check for and replace any bad bearings, buy new seals and gasket and put it back together. Take good pictures of all the gears and some pictures as you put it together. If you decide to sell the transmission, those pictures will make that transmission a $250 transmission instead of a $75 because you can show what is inside. Just coat all the gears and shafts with Lucas oil (like STP) and it will last on the shelf. Believe me, somebody is always looking for a good Limited Slip transmission. Don't use gasket sealer on the case half gasket...just make sure the halves are clean. 2 axle seals............SKF-11050 1 input seal.............SKF-6105 1 brake shaft seal...SKF-7410 1 case half gasket...TORO #3912 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,928 #11 Posted March 29, 2021 I can smell gear oil from my house! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jsieao 10 #12 Posted March 29, 2021 The smell was definitely unmistakable! Yea, fortunately my parts washer solution is at the end of it's usefulness, so the timing was good. There was some nasty sludge on the bottom of the case!! Now I can change out that solution! Sounds like I should hang onto that ball bearing and spring that were bouncing around in the basin! Ha Ha!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,230 #13 Posted March 29, 2021 You don't have to press that broken hub off. Just take a 4" grinder and cut it in 2 places down close, but not touching the axle. Hit with a hammer and cold chisel and it will snap apart and come right off. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jsieao 10 #14 Posted April 3, 2021 No shock here, your grinder suggestion worked like a charm! Thanks again! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
