wfopete 15 #1 Posted May 28, 2009 Ok fellers, even though I was a Wheel Horse Field Service Representative in another life, I know almost nothing about my 65 Lawn Ranger. So what I'm looking for are weak areas that could cause my horse to stumble. I have already flogged this horse by mowing in very heavy brush with almost no protest but I don't want to hurt it. I have replaced & greased the zerks and changed the trans oil. She is rusty but trusty...so far. It has a 36" RD deck and it makes quite a bit of noise when engaged but seems reasonably tight around the spindle areas. Are these decks typically noisy? I went from a 2.5" pullley to a 3" pulley off the cranksahft for a little higher blade speed. Those blades really hum now. I replaced the engine with a 6.5 Honda clone, while the OEM unit is rebuilt and that seems to have worked out well. I also replaced the front wheel bearings, the tires are OEM and I would like to go to a taller wheel/tire in the front but I don't know if that will work out geometry wise. But what can I do to make it a stronger LR, or at least know the weak spots in her armor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Horse 33 #2 Posted May 28, 2009 Pete, I think the mower deck for the LR was a 32" RD not 36" RD. Here is a couple of tips from long ago that we did on our 67 LR. Notch the hood behind the steering column near the dash. It makes taking off the hood a whole lot easier when you unscrew the three hood bolts. Next, on the location where there is the deck lifting/lowering handle you can make a few other notches below the factory one for different mowing heights. WH didn't do that on these models and there really isn't any provision for it on the deck. Actually you can unbolt the deck wheels to slot in at different heights but that really isn't an answer. We also did a kind of quirky thing which worked out real well. There is a sheetmetal angled cover that goes near the gear shift rod. Unbolt it and place it upside down on the bottom of the side plates it was bolted to. It fits perfectly inside and now you have a place to store prunners,tools or whatever that are right at your fingertips. The recess you just made is really handyand it won't get in the way of the shifter rod either. As far as the noise level is concerned,get used to it. The gear drive mower deck are by design really noisy because of the drivetrain itselt. They don't get quieter so just use ear plugs. After mowing for 3 hours a a time they really gave you a headache. Make sure when you take blades off the you put them back in a "T" configuration. It is REAL important as you don't want the blades wacking into each other since they overlap on the cutting area. The later drives got away from that setup when it went to all belt setup. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,587 #3 Posted May 28, 2009 Put a Kohler K181 on it. Then it will last another 40 years. It will bolt right up with no modification, as long as it's pull start. Several members here have done it (Including myself), and it makes for a very sturdy setup. Electric start fits too, but the battery box area is too small for a standard L&G battery. Mine has a smaller battery. Not knocking Tecumsehs (they do that enough on their own), but the Kohler is a far superior engine- and parts for them are readily available. Of course, if you have an all-original tractor- you may wanna keep it that way. It's probably a good one! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh500special 2,262 #4 Posted May 28, 2009 Not knocking Tecumsehs (they do that enough on their own you guys and your tecumseh jokes! I love those little suckers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfopete 15 #5 Posted May 28, 2009 Good stuff guys, wish I knew about the 181 Kohler swap before I put the other motor in it. Oh yeah, 32 inch deck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,587 #6 Posted May 28, 2009 you guys and your tecumseh jokes! I love those little suckers. Forgive me Steve, I just had to. As I understand it, the "big block" Teccys are good engines, and the 6 hp one from my Ranger was a good runner- but only when a Kohler carb was bolted to it. Sorry for the thread hijack! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfopete 15 #7 Posted May 29, 2009 Ok so I missed the engine scoop but can anyone tell me where I can get some of those knurled knobs for the hood? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #8 Posted May 29, 2009 I've got all mine off ebay about $25 a set, We have a member here that sells them can't remember who right now???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHC-125 4 #9 Posted May 29, 2009 I've got all mine off ebay about $25 a set, We have a member here that sells them can't remember who right now???? I could make those and their going for $30 on ebay :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #10 Posted May 29, 2009 I didnt notice any comments on the higher balde speed being run through the gear drive deck. Might not be a problem but I was wondering if in the long run that might be hard on the deck. The Lawn Ranger is fairly bulletproof little tractor, like most all WH tractors. I would assume the heavy rear combined with small tires and a small engine should make it even less prone to problems. My Ranger has a swapped engine and transmission but as of yet both the frame and steering gears are holding up fine. And thats after 3 years of heavy use bordering on abuse. Found these hood bolts on ebay for $19.99 plus $5 shipping Ebay link Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drydock 3 #11 Posted May 29, 2009 I slid a brand new Tecumseh LH318/HM80 into mine. Complete with starter and ATV battery. The 10 horse LH358 will fit too. Same block, bigger bore. But the 8 horse has plenty of power for the little Lawn Ranger. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites