Triton53 13 #1 Posted January 11, 2021 Someone reversed the clutch rod lever so to engage the drive belt you have to press petal forward and to disengage the drive you take your foot off the petal. I would like to go back to stock but to do that I would have to add a 108035 spring. What is the best place to mount the spring? Another question I have is: do I need to remove the fan shroud to remove the oil filter? Thanks in advance. Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,522 #2 Posted January 11, 2021 Looks like arm 18 is upside down. You need to remove spiral pin 17 and rotate the arm on the shaft 1/2 a turn. Someone posted a good picture of the spring area the other day on a tractor that was possibly fresh painted and no rear seat pan on it yet. Can't find it now and wish I had saved it. https://www.partstree.com/models/73420-416-8-toro-garden-tractor-sn-059000001-059000614-1995/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage-6/ There is a hole in the arm for the spring and there is a cast iron web/brace on the top of the transmission axle housing that has a hole in it for the other end of the spring. Will let others reply to the oil filter change. No Onan in my blood. Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Triton53 13 #3 Posted January 11, 2021 Thanks Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,129 #4 Posted January 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Triton53 said: reversed the clutch rod lever so to engage the drive belt you have to press petal forward and to disengage the drive you take your foot off the petal Wow. Like a Model T or a modern locomotive--a "dead man" control that stops the machine when the operator releases pressure on the pedal or lever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,309 #5 Posted January 11, 2021 TRITON 53, agree with gwest on shaft arm, if you have the spring , broken or not , try a local h / w store for match up , they typically have racks of springs , lubricate both mounting points, another thing I would replace is the IDLER PULLEY , looks like its ready to get noisy. not sure on the fan / oil filter set up , no onan exp. try to find a picture on site of your drive belt set up , easy answer. note the rusty end of your lift rod ? just to the right of your idler pulley , aerosol lubricate it , watch the rust run out . your pictures help , keep going , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,309 #6 Posted January 11, 2021 TRITON, try this , https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk023uxRhV7bBlxq8gu68V5PSHBO4_A:1610381606878&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=wheel+horse+drive+belt+diagram&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwivooX9opTuAhXnYt8KHUqmBwcQjJkEegQIARAB&biw=1024&bih=625#imgrc=rO1RIwXF3u4n5M, you are probably here , look up your match, pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
horseyheaven 113 #7 Posted January 11, 2021 No, you don’t need remove the shroud to change oil filter. There should be a gasket between the shroud and oil filter. That will need to be removed first. If one is not on there, it is a good idea to get one as it helps cooling air for back cylinder not to escape. Then, try to remove filter with wrench if needed by turning counter clockwise. You will need to reach up in and clean out old oil and debris with paper towels. A light and a mirror help a lot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,522 #8 Posted January 11, 2021 The spiral pin in the lever is 3/16" x 1-1/4". You need to support the lever to drive the pin out or you will pound the tractor to pieces. See if you can get the pin vertical with a length of hardwood between it and the floor. You want 1/4 of the weight of the tractor on the wood support. Also drill a hole in the end of the support so as the pin comes out it has somewhere to go. Perhaps a second set of hands can hold a 5 pound plate of steel up to the bottom of the lever. You need something to absorb the hammer blows. This is also required to put the spiral pin back in. Same when you go to put the pin back in. To keep the holes lined up use a 3/16" cotter pin that will just slide through the holes. Then spread the cotter pin apart enough that the tension will hold the pin in the holes. Put the cotter pin in from the bottom and as you drive the spiral pin in it pushes the cotter pin out. Have not had to do one yet but this is my plan. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,714 #9 Posted January 12, 2021 Spiro are stronger ONLY if you are sure you are getting the heavy duty ones. I doubt the ones in the parts bin at the hardware store are heavy duty... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,129 #10 Posted January 12, 2021 5 hours ago, gwest_ca said: The spiral pin in the lever is 3/16" x 1-1/4". I suggest using anti-seize compound when you put the spiral back in. You don't need a lot and it is messy stuff so be prepared but it'll make removing it again a bit easier. 5 hours ago, gwest_ca said: See if you can get the pin vertical with a length of hardwood between it and the floor. You want 1/4 of the weight of the tractor on the wood support. Also drill a hole in the end of the support so as the pin comes out it has somewhere to go. He's not kidding here--pushing the pin out into a hole in the support block works well and prevents the pin from flying away when it finally comes out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,348 #11 Posted January 12, 2021 The drive belt needs to be located above the 3/4" foot rest support. You also need to have the belt guard in place to prevent gear grinding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Triton53 13 #12 Posted January 12, 2021 I have received some very good feedback! Thanks to everyone for their help!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
