wfopete 15 #1 Posted May 19, 2009 I swapped in a new 6.5 HP engine into my Lawn Ranger and while Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheel horse 1045 2 #2 Posted May 19, 2009 [get er done] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Bullington 5 #3 Posted May 19, 2009 use 2" on the engine and 4" on the tranny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfopete 15 #4 Posted May 19, 2009 Will that require a different size belt? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #5 Posted May 19, 2009 Good Job! :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Bullington 5 #6 Posted May 19, 2009 use the original size pulleys and the original size belt in the manual....Trust me with my ranger in low gear I can watch the grass grow while i cut it! Stock Belt Part 1576 V- Belt - 70" by 1/2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W9JAB 156 #7 Posted May 19, 2009 Belt Diameter Constant Diameter Constant Center Constant Length = Pulley #1 x 1.57 + Pulley #2 x 1.57 + Distance x 2 69.42 = 2 x 1.57 + 4 x 1.57 + 30 x 2 3.14 6.28 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfopete 15 #8 Posted May 20, 2009 Hey who let Albert Einstein in? Didn't you see I'm from Arkansas? I was just about to comment on how nice it is to work on something with no relays or safety switches and I can use my American wrenches and sockets on again. I only have a degree in Guess-ti-mate-ology and I get the Theory of Pulley/Belt relativity thrown at me. Where is my Texas Instruments scientific calculator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Horse 32 #9 Posted May 20, 2009 use the original size pulleys and the original size belt in the manual....Trust me with my ranger in low gear I can watch the grass grow while i cut it! Stock Belt Part 1576 V- Belt - 70" by 1/2 LOL.That is the truth. I think this is the first time I've ever heard of someone flipping a Lawn Ranger ! You don't need low range on those tractors-they're low enough. Just curious though, what kind of 6.5 engine was it? The OEM was a Tecumseh HH60. BTW if you can't find an OEM drive belt try a 4L710 from NAPA. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fordsonmajortom 1 #10 Posted May 20, 2009 We had the same thing happen when i fitted a Honda engine to my Lawn Ranger.If you Didn't let the clutch out very slowly it went straight up vertically and took off. Luckely the Honda engine has got a low oil level cut out switch so it stopped within a few yards as it was heading towards a garage door. I am going to cure it by fitting some weights on the front and that will hopefully keep it down. It didn't help that the engine pulley is larger and i had to fix the engine further back. Michael :drool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Bullington 5 #11 Posted May 20, 2009 okay there is no reason a tractor should wheelie like that with the proper belt and and the engine speed set properly to take off....I can dump my clutch and the front wheels will never leave the ground...(the belt is not slipping). You can adjust the rods so the pedal is more at the top to release the belt. These tractors do not need to be wide open to take off...Increase the throttle slightly then increase the throttle to gain ground speed ...if it is still bucking then the belt is not working properly or needs adjustment a larger pulley on the engine should reduce the take off speed and increase the top speed...If anything the larger pulley would decrease the engine bottom end.....Again the problem was Too much throttle. Good Luck and stay Safe Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfopete 15 #12 Posted May 21, 2009 Too much throttle? Funny, that same thought passed through my mind about the time the front wheels were two feet off the ground and continuing to go up. I thought: "Certainly this thing isn't going to flip over?" The problem is that once that chain of events starts it's hard to stop. First you get jerked back, which causes your foot to have a tendancy to release more clutch pedal which in turn increses the engagement all the while your wieght is being transfered to the rear tires. I think a 2" pulley may be part of the solution, as the OEM is a 2.5" size. I can realate to Michael because the Lawn Ranger motor is a 6.5 HP Honda clone. I did not have to butcher the frame by drilling or modifing. How? Good old hillbilly technology. I used a piece of plywood for a engine mounting plate. The plywood gave me the correct height for the crankshaft and I mounted it with carriage bolts in the original frame holes then, counter sunk four more into the plywood (from the bottom) for the engine mounts. The plywood will also give me a good template for a sturdy future aluminum engine mount. The clone motor has plenty of power. The worst part is, of course, the engine lost it's "back in the day" virtues but I'm working on bringing back some of those. I recall that this LR has always had a rather abrupt "engagement point". I'll inspect the issue closer and try some adjustments to the pedal/rod. It did have a new drive pulley on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bork 0 #13 Posted May 21, 2009 Hehehe, Now I know where you got your name, Glad your OK. still leaving a nice humorus image in my mind! hehehe cant stop chuckling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #14 Posted May 22, 2009 I once flipped my 308 over on top of my self,and i can tell you it was terifying with the tires and chains flailing towards my head,so i knowhow you feel!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Bullington 5 #15 Posted May 22, 2009 Quote: I once flipped my 308 over on top of my self,and i can tell you it was terifying with the tires and chains flailing towards my head,so i knowhow you feel!! You guys are funny!! :drool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
