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520H Indicator Light Module

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Horse Newbie

Are these tiny bulbs in my dash for warning lights replaceable , and if so do they just pull out ?

20201013_175046_HDR.jpg

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lynnmor

Never fooled with them.  Can you test the lamp in place?

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JoeM

That's a new one. 

 

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Horse Newbie
41 minutes ago, JoeM said:

That's a new one. 

 

 "New one" as a "new one on me" , or anew on as a new indicator light module ?

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gwest_ca

I will guess those bulbs just have wires sticking out of them.

Ever change a ballast in a florescent light? You stick a round wire/tool in a hole to release the wires from the terminals.

The holes at each side of the bulb may be the same. Stick a wire in there to release the tension on the terminal so the bulb can be removed. If that is what it is you would need to do both sides at the same time. Open up a cotter pin and bend to fit both holes at the same time. Try on a bulb you know does not work. Nothing to loose.

I looked through parts lists for replacement bulbs but found nothing. Toro found them so they have to be available.

Garry

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Horse Newbie
On 10/13/2020 at 11:26 PM, gwest_ca said:

I will guess those bulbs just have wires sticking out of them.

Ever change a ballast in a florescent light? You stick a round wire/tool in a hole to release the wires from the terminals.

The holes at each side of the bulb may be the same. Stick a wire in there to release the tension on the terminal so the bulb can be removed. If that is what it is you would need to do both sides at the same time. Open up a cotter pin and bend to fit both holes at the same time. Try on a bulb you know does not work. Nothing to loose.

I looked through parts lists for replacement bulbs but found nothing. Toro found them so they have to be available.

Garry

I have got a mess ! Bought the tractor, pull behind leaf sucker with a small Briggs, and a rototiller for either $ 120 or $140 , can't remember, so I didn't do bad...but the previous owner or somebody did some crazy stuff with the wiring. I am missing some fuses in the fuse block. Take a look at the wiring diagram pic. I am supposing the fuses are shown on the diagram from front to rear, correct ? Once I get the fuses I will put them in and start trying to get more of a handle on what's going on. All the bulbs are working in the indicator module. But I don't know if they are working at the right time. I'm sure I will be back on here needing help getting this wiring figured out. I would like to get the dash lights and as much as possible working as far as the lights go.

20201013_184039.jpg

Edited by Horse Newbie

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Horse Newbie

When I turned the key on the indicator lights all came on and the oil pressure light blinked. But I could not get any of the taillights, or any other lights to come on.Whatever previous owner dod sure has me puzzled. The tractor cranked and ran last time I parked it but I haven't really tried to crank it since I've been changing all fluids, plugs, new fuel line, new filters, coil, a tire, fuel petcock, good cleaning...I am really wanting to get it moving again. I know I had a surging carb when ir ran last.

Edited by Horse Newbie

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gwest_ca

Do you know the model number and serial number of the tractor?

May have better wiring diagrams.

 

Garry

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JoeM
5 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

new one on me

I have not seen that question before now.

 

Also after reading your last post, a 12V test light probe might just be your best friend.

Make a copy of the diagram you have and systematically go though the system. You can take a high lighter and mark the print off as you go starting with the key switch. Noting any changes from the PO. Remember, those lights come on in a fault situation, and there is a ribbon connector to those lights that can be traced in reverse if necessary. 

I like working top to bottom on these issues working through the relay section.  

Edited by JoeM
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lynnmor

Your tractor was molested by the PO and now it needs to be sorted out.  The fuse block should have fuses like this:

Front = empty

2nd = 15 amp

3rd = 25 amp

Rear = 30 amp

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Horse Newbie
8 hours ago, JoeM said:

I have not seen that question before now.

 

Also after reading your last post, a 12V test light probe might just be your best friend.

Make a copy of the diagram you have and systematically go though the system. You can take a high lighter and mark the print off as you go starting with the key switch. Noting any changes from the PO. Remember, those lights come on in a fault situation, and there is a ribbon connector to those lights that can be traced in reverse if necessary. 

I like working top to bottom on these issues working through the relay section.  

Thanks JoeM...

I have already come to the conclusion that this is going to take some time to go through...especially with my limited understanding of electronics. But, the diagram, 12 volt test light, and time, should get me on a good start. I may get the engine ready to crank- fuel line/ filter, new coil, plugs, oil/ filter, air filter, etc. Once I get the engine running I will dive a little deeper into the wiring.

Thanks for all your help guys.

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Horse Newbie
6 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Your tractor was molested by the PO and now it needs to be sorted out.  The fuse block should have fuses like this:

Front = empty

2nd = 15 amp

3rd = 25 amp

Rear = 30 amp

Thanks #@Lynnmor...I dislike dealing with these kinds of issues on previously owned stuff, but I did get it at a great price so a little headache is to be expected I guess.

Thanks for the help !

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Horse Newbie
8 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Do you know the model number and serial number of the tractor?

May have better wiring diagrams.

 

Garry

I do have model and serial numbers...I'll post them tonight when I get home...

Thanks, 

Tim (Horse Newbie)

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Horse Newbie
8 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

I do have model and serial numbers...I'll post them tonight when I get home...

Thanks, 

Tim (Horse Newbie)

The model number is 73501

The serial number is 4902437

20201014_191006_HDR.jpg

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gwest_ca

First is general info on your 1994 520-H. Click on the pictures for more info

Here are the diagrams.

If you find discrepancies let us know. Have tried to clean up and correct the diagrams using info available.

 

Garry

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Horse Newbie

I have seen information on Red Square, and it may have been on this thread about the positions of the fuses in the 520h fuse block as far as the 30 amp being in front, followed by the 25, then the 15 amp fuse. I think that some of the machines have been worked on and the fuse block may have been installed backward from its original position. 

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gwest_ca

The 30 amp fuse is between the alternator and battery. With the tractor running you should have about 14 volts at the battery. Remove the 30 amp fuse with the tractor running and the battery voltage should drop to about 12.5 volts.

 

The 25 amp fuse powers the ignition switch. If the tractor starts with the 30 amp fuse removed the 25 amp fuse is in the correct position.

 

The 15 amp fuse only has power with the key switch is in the RUN position. Engine does not have to be running. If no power at the 15 amp fuse either the 25 amp fuse is in the wrong place or the ignition switch has failed.

Another wat to describe the circuit.

Power goes through the 25 amp fuse to the ignition switch and the ignition switch sends power to the 15 amp fuse when in the RUN position.

 

Garry

 

Garry

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Horse Newbie
11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

The 30 amp fuse is between the alternator and battery. With the tractor running you should have about 14 volts at the battery. Remove the 30 amp fuse with the tractor running and the battery voltage should drop to about 12.5 volts.

 

The 25 amp fuse powers the ignition switch. If the tractor starts with the 30 amp fuse removed the 25 amp fuse is in the correct position.

 

The 15 amp fuse only has power with the key switch is in the RUN position. Engine does not have to be running. If no power at the 15 amp fuse either the 25 amp fuse is in the wrong place or the ignition switch has failed.

Another way to describe the circuit.

Power goes through the 25 amp fuse to the ignition switch and the ignition switch sends power to the 15 amp fuse when in the RUN position.

 

Garry

Thanks for the explanation Garry. All of this information is helping me get more of a grasp of what I am going up against.

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Horse Newbie

Well here is my plan after researching this forum, talking with members, and checking over my 1994 520-H.

I plan on replacing the fuse block, wiring it back the way the wiring diagram shows, only messing with what has been apparently messed with...KEEP IT SIMPLE!

Then just start testing different places within the wiring system that I am having issues with....probably mostly will be gauges and lights.

Checking bulbs, cleaning terminals, applying dielectric grease, and more cleaning connections and terminals.

I have been told there are two kinds of 520-H owners, those who have had wiring issues, and those who will have wiring issues...lol:D

 

I want to thank anyone here who has offered help and their experience.

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Horse Newbie
On 10/14/2020 at 12:19 AM, Horse Newbie said:

I have got a mess ! Bought the tractor, pull behind leaf sucker with a small Briggs, and a rototiller for either $ 120 or $140 , can't remember, so I didn't do bad...but the previous owner or somebody did some crazy stuff with the wiring. I am missing some fuses in the fuse block. Take a look at the wiring diagram pic. I am supposing the fuses are shown on the diagram from front to rear, correct ? Once I get the fuses I will put them in and start trying to get more of a handle on what's going on. All the bulbs are working in the indicator module. But I don't know if they are working at the right time. I'm sure I will be back on here needing help getting this wiring figured out. I would like to get the dash lights and as much as possible working as far as the lights go.

20201013_184039.jpg

Okay......check this out. I cleaned all connections at each dash gauge by taking the small brass nuts off, sanding them bright, sanded all wire terminal ends, and reassembled with all connections coated in dielectric grease. Took all gauge bulbs out and verified they burn(need a few bulbs), cleaned each bulb socket with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Then I put bulb grease on the bulbs.

Then I set about checking my wiring against the diagram above...this is where I would like you guys to weigh in before I go much farther(plus I'm waiting on my new fuse block to get herei).

 

This is what I found on my tractor compared to the wiring diagram ( my 520H= 1994):

1. The purple wire from the start relay to the 30 amp fuse on my 520 is white.

2. The white wire from the 30 amp fuse to the engine connector goes to red ( to B+ regulator) on the engine side of the connector, however the way I read the diagram it should remain white.

3. My cylinder temp. wire is white on the engine side of the connector...but it does go to purple on the other side of the 9 pin connector.

 

So I guess this is my question to you all before I put in my new fuse block...Is the diagram above correct as far as the fuse block and fuses ? ( I already know about some of you have moved the 30 amp fuse down by the starter in a waterproof in line fuse holder)

Does that mean if you bypass the fuse block with the 30 amp, you run the red from the battery to the 25 amp then to the ignition switch ?

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20201017_102238.jpg

20201017_105437.jpg

20201017_182733_HDR.jpg

Edited by Horse Newbie

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gwest_ca

Does that mean if you bypass the fuse block with the 30 amp, you run the red from the battery to the 25 amp then to the ignition switch ?

 

The 25 amp fuse is already connected to the battery and ignition switch. No change needed there.

Does that answer your question?

 

Does this diagram represent what you are describing on wire colors?

 

Garry

 

p7-98 1994 Rev.jpg

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gwest_ca

These wires look close to the steering column and shifter controls. At the end of the day make sure they can't rub.

You have done a nice clean up.

 

Garry

520-H dash wiring.jpg

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Horse Newbie
5 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

These wires look close to the steering column and shifter controls. At the end of the day make sure they can't rub.

You have done a nice clean up.

 

Garry

520-H dash wiring.jpg

I do believe the wiring diagram you put above shows what I described. The wires changing colors do not concern me; I checked them with an ohm meter.

My main concern is I did notice my 9 pin connector is burnt a little on one pin (I believe it is the charge wire/ 30 amp).

 

So to put ot all back together after I get my new fuse block:

1. I can run wire from B+ on R/R to 30 amp fuse in a weather proof fuse holder, to the starter post with the cable from the battery.

 

2. Then the small wire from the starter post will go straight to the 25 amp(through the 9 pin) fuse, then to "B" on ignition switch.

 

3. The 15 amp can remain as diagram shows, unless I do install fuse block and use weatherproof inline fuse holder.

 

One note:

Even though I ordered a new fuse block, and I have to rewire the wires near it...

I'm thinking just get 3 weatherproof inline fuse holders, 

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Horse Newbie
6 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

These wires look close to the steering column and shifter controls. At the end of the day make sure they can't rub.

You have done a nice clean up.

 

Garry

520-H dash wiring.jpg

I believe the wires being close to steering column is just an optical illusion, but I will definitely check it.

Thanks for all the help !

Tim,

oh I forgot Horse Newbie...might have to change the username !          :lol:

 

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