ACR 2005 16 hp KOHLER

[John Csukor 11]

Greetings all, 

Wishing you all safety and good health to begin with. 

Checking in on an old topic which need be refreshed.  I understand the ACR can fail on a Kohler. 
Leaving compression to be too high thus creating a hard start.  

Give credit where due, I have replaced and installed brand new: 
Stator
Starter
Solenoid
Spark Plug
Spark Plug Wire
All new cables

Yet still, what I am experiencing is a positive, immediate turn on the starter. 
Then a dead stop.  I'll (wince) hold the key on and in about 20 seconds or so, it will eventually start. 
Don't worry, I KNOW that isn't good for ANYTHING. Don't lecture....

What I'd like your opinion on is: do you also think this is an issue with the ACR and should the engine fly and top head be pulled to

change this out?  I see on some forums where this part fails, cracks and/or just breaks.  
Thoughts and help? 

I know there is also a RED brother in Richmond VA, (can't remember your handle Sir) 
I have garage kept and pampered this beautiful 416XT and it looks new with beauty new 52" deck and all. 

Just want to do right by her and get this issue straightened out.  (chewing up a battery each season even with heavy and trickle charges) 

Thoughts?
Am I crazy?

Cheers to all!
JC

 

 

[ZXT 2,394]

Hey JC! I'm not very familiar with the Kohler Command engine that's in your Horse, but I have owned a couple. I did have one that cranked hard and it wound up having a partially sheared flywheel key. 

 

The ACR having issues was common on the K-series 16hp, but I've not heard of it on the CV line.

 

I would pull the flywheel and check the flywheel key. If it is partially sheared, it in effect advances the timing to the point that it causes it to crank hard. 

[wallfish 15,936]

13 minutes ago, John Csukor said:

Don't worry, I KNOW that isn't good for ANYTHING. Don't lecture....

Now hold on a minute! You deserve a lecture good man! LOL

Not a CV engine man myself but is it possible the battery you're using has too low of CCA rating? cold cranking amps Try jump starting it with your truck or car.

Just throwing that out there as $0.02 since I'm not in the mood for giving a lecture either.

[John Csukor 11]

Thank you both. 

wallfish, thanks for not lecturing, but no, way off.  When I told you I pampered this old girl, you might have noted that someone stating this would spend the extra $

for the best.  400 cranking amps is the highest I could find between Batteries Plus, Lowes and Tractor Supply.  Again, Thank you. And thank you for the levity. 

 

ZXT,  When I changed out the stator, I had to pull the FLY WHEEL. Even though the KEY was completely intact, I placed a new stainless one in place when

reinstalling the FW, so I know it's not that  

Has anyone heard of the ACR as an issue in this or other model KOHLERS? 
Thank you again for responses. 
JC
 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503]

Does your engine have adjustable rocker arms and if so have you adjusted them?

 

Garry

 

[953 nut 51,770]

10 hours ago, John Csukor said:

what I am experiencing is a positive, immediate turn on the starter. 
Then a dead stop.  I'll (wince) hold the key on and in about 20 seconds or so, it will eventually start.

That sounds like a poor connection in the electrical system somewhere. Many of our electrical components live in a harsh corrosive environment ( under or near the battery). Vibration can loosen the connectors and corrosion becomes resistant to electrical flow causing voltage drop at any loose or corroded junction. At the onset of these problems the heat generated across these poor connections will overcome the electrical resistance (your 20 second delay) and allow the connection to be made. Over time the heat developed will cause a failure of the connection. Clean, inspect and tighten all electrical connectors including grounds and replace any connections that are loose. Use a dab of dielectric grease on each one as you put them back together.

Edited October 10, 2020 by 953 nut

[ZXT 2,394]

43 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Clean, inspect and tighten all electrical connectors including grounds and replace any connections that are loose.

 

From his original post I believe he's replaced all of the cables. But that's certainly not to say that there isn't still a bad connection somewhere.

 

JC, have you taken a battery and jumper cables and jumped directly to the starter post and grounded it to the engine? This would rule out any connection issues if the problem persisted. After that, I would look up the valve adjustment procedure and perform that.

Edited October 10, 2020 by ZXT

[Tuneup 1,416]

My Briggs did the same - was loosened rockers. A common thing with later Briggs engines. The ACR will not overcome the increased gap. Adjust rockers and starting returns. You could barely rope start that thing. Maybe the same here? Worth a check.

[John Csukor 11]

Tried the direct link from positive to starter and did the same.  So I think based on comments, it comes to this.  Rocker arm adjustment or ACR change out based on Kohler forum.. 

The later of the two being block tear down, or at least top head removal. 

Thank you all again so much!
JC

 

[953 nut 51,770]

23 hours ago, John Csukor said:

from positive to starter and did the same.

The ground cable is also an important part of the circuit, the same amount of current passes through it.

[peter lena 8,072]

JOHN CSKOR ,  added this insurance engine/frame to dash ground cable to my 3 horses , might be worth adding , any electrical issue I  had is gone. other ideas I have added are also pictured , pete

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,503]

Looks like this engine used two different rocker assemblies. One adjustable and one not.

You may determine what yours has by studying the illustrated parts list for you spec number.

The non-adjustable may use hydraulic lifters like the larger engines in this Command series.

 

Garry