Lefty 57 54 #1 Posted September 17, 2020 Quote How do you free #114134 (53) Spring loaded clutch damper? Hello again fellow Wheel Horse owners. I have a 1991 model 312-8 Classic which I am working on. When I last ran it, I kept hearing a rattling, clanking noise and noticed that the main drive belt was snatching, stopping and starting. I think the noise may have been the belt slapping against the belt guard on the right hand side. It seemed to make the noise whenever I pressed my foot on the clutch, there is no problem in selecting gears but I was concerned it may have been the engine balance weights as I've heard they can make a horrible rattling noise. The belt snatching may have caused the engine balance weights to make a clattering noise?. I decided to investigate and removed the right hand side belt guard along with the right hand side footrest. The main drive belt looks okay, no worn areas or fraying but it was very loose. I checked the idler pulley and it moved as it should but I did notice the clutch damper, part number #114134 or number (53) on my parts list (Clutch and brake assembly) was not working. There is a spring loaded central pin in the center of the threaded part. The photo I have attached shows the clutch damper held on by two nuts and the central pin is stuck inside which means the clutch idler pulley bracket sits to far back. I am presuming that because the idler pulley bracket is resting right up against the end of the damper this is why my drive belt is so loose. I have seen other photos which show the central pin extends out of the threaded section of the damper by about 1 and a half inches. I have removed the damper and cleaned as much dried dirt and grime as I can from the pin end. I can see the central pin but cannot see a way of pulling it or removing it from the threaded housing. At the moment I have left it soaking in WD40 lubricating fluid, Hoping that it may work its way inside. There is a small pin hole at the other end but I don't know what that's for. When you look at the photo there is a section on the left end that is not threaded, I did attempt to turn it with mole grips and it does indeed rotate, but does not appear to unscrew. Is there anyone here that has come across these dampers? Anyone ever managed to clean them up enough to get the central pin to spring out again? Please if anyone here knows the procedure to get these dampers working, please let me know? I think because the damper isn't working when I let the clutch up it is making the belt to slack which is causing the clattering noise? Please advise me if that sounds correct. This is my first Wheel Horse and I have sorted the electrics, replaced the solenoid and key switch and serviced the engine, stripped and cleaned the fuel pump and carb. The Magnum 12hp engine now starts first turn of the key and runs really well, it idles smoothly and at higher revs it sounds really strong. The hours meter is now reading 691 hours as I drove it around my lawns to get everything warmed up. The clattering noise every time I stop the Wheel Horse to change gears is frustrating. I could see the belt snatching when I looked at the PTO and I'm praying that I have located the cause of why my drive belt is so loose. It may need a new drive belt as I have no history with this tractor and it could be an original belt that may have stretched over the years? Does that happen with age, do the belts stretch? Thank you in advance for any help or advice anyone can offer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,128 #2 Posted September 17, 2020 I do not have any horses with that damper. Have read on here some just remove it and go with a spring as used on the older horse. Modern belts do not stretch...however the v surfaces wear and the belt sits lower in the pulley groove making it looser. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,961 #3 Posted September 17, 2020 59 minutes ago, pfrederi said: I do not have any horses with that damper. Have read on here some just remove it and go with a spring as used on the older horse. Modern belts do not stretch...however the v surfaces wear and the belt sits lower in the pulley groove making it looser. I'll second all of the above. I'm sort of thinking the spring you want is a Toro number 108035. I don't know where it's attached though.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,479 #4 Posted September 17, 2020 I have successfully cleaned the damper up and put back into service. I call it an air shock because the air exits and enters that small hole at the rear. But so does dust and dirt which limits it's long term service. I used hot water, detergent and patience. Left to dry in the sun. You want to get all the moisture out of it so the spring does not rust. Light oil would help with that but attracts dust. Today's good belts don't stretch but the sides will wear as they slide into and out of the pulleys. That increases the effective belt length. The damper needs to be adjusted so the body of it does not contact the idler assembly. Keep an eye on it following a new belt because the clearance will lessen as the new belt wears in. There were a couple of changes to the damper with the last being a gas shock that is expensive and short lived. Most just go with the spring alone. When first started allow the tractor to run in neutral for a few minutes. That flexes the belt so when clutching the engagement is much smoother. I have got into the habit now of slowing the engine down before releasing the clutch to take off. Drive it like any other vehicle with a gear transmission. The clutch pedal return spring is on the left side and hooked into a web above the left axle housing. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lefty 57 54 #5 Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) Thank you pfrederi, ebinmaine, and Garry for replying to my post. Today I checked underneath my Wheel Horse whilst my wife was pressing the clutch, everything seems to be working correctly. On my 1991 model 312-8 I noticed as well as the spring pin damper on the right hand side near the idler pulley, there is also a clutch spring #108035 on the left side of the transmission which seems to be doing its job. I did notice a bit of rust in both the idler pulley belt groove and the transmission pulley belt groove. Possibly another reason my drive belt seems to be snatching when I operate the clutch. I spent a couple of hours today sanding the rust away from the pulley grooves with a file. Tomorrow I will finish sanding and filing the pulley grooves so they are both smooth and shiny as I know rusty patches where the belt sits is not ideal. At the moment I have the damper soaking in penetrating fluid to see if I can get the central pin to pop back out. If it remains stuck I will just reattach the damper but make sure the threaded body of it is not making contact with the idler assembly as it was when I removed it. I think my damper has been stuck with the central pin locked in for some time. Edited September 18, 2020 by Lefty 57 Spelling correction 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
