Toro gets warm then stops

[1973Auto 80]

I bought a beat Toro LX425 just to mow golden rod field going to my tree stand. Rock roots don't care just a beater. It has a 20jp Koehler with no governor which actually works good in the tall crap. Anyway it runs and cuts for 15-20 minutes then stops. First time it did it, it would barely turn over. Let it sit for 20 minutes turned over but took some time, barley turn, then finally. Thought it was fuel filter. Put new one on,started mowed but 20 minutes later same thing. This time no turn over, so 20 minutes later put a charger on it for 5 minutes then all good. I was told that after the engine is on you can disconnect to battery and it will still run? Am I wrong on this and all I have is a junk battery that does not charge causing the engine to quit???? Sorry for the long ramble 

[stevasaurus 23,107]

You can test the battery to see what shape it is in, but I suspect you have other issues.  I am not familiar with your Toro LX425...the issues suggest a bad coil and/or condenser.  Is there a heat sensor on the engine?  Running like that without a governor can create a lot of heat for an engine.

[squonk 42,784]

18 hours ago, 1973Auto said:

I bought a beat Toro LX425 just to mow golden rod field going to my tree stand. Rock roots don't care just a beater. It has a 20jp Koehler with no governor which actually works good in the tall crap. Anyway it runs and cuts for 15-20 minutes then stops. First time it did it, it would barely turn over. Let it sit for 20 minutes turned over but took some time, barley turn, then finally. Thought it was fuel filter. Put new one on,started mowed but 20 minutes later same thing. This time no turn over, so 20 minutes later put a charger on it for 5 minutes then all good. I was told that after the engine is on you can disconnect to battery and it will still run? Am I wrong on this and all I have is a junk battery that does not charge causing the engine to quit???? Sorry for the long ramble 

Get your battery fully charged. (12.7 volts or higher) and get it tested. A bad battery can drop voltage enough to kill the spark. Then after siting recover enough to crank again but barely. You need a good battery for your charging system to work correctly. If the battery test ok move to the charging system

[953 nut 58,259]

Any corroded connection in your electrical system can be aggravated by heat.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,276]

These models have a magneto ignition so yes the wires can be disconnected and it should run. You just won't be able to shut it off with the key.

That may be a good idea to see if the tractor is causing the shutdown or if it is the engine.

Wiring diagrams

Engine service manual

Garry

[Redneckdavis 308]

Maybe I'm completely wrong but in my experience I would say check the coil if battery is good.

If your easy fixes are eliminated, setting the valves may do it. 

Also Running lean will cause excess heat, check your plugs for wear pattern

[ohiofarmer 3,353]

If this model has an electric clutch and a weak battery that will not charge up or hold a charge, then that could explain some things. Also not mentioned yet is the possibility that the vent for the gas tank cap is plugged. Possible with the symptoms you describe.   Just loosen the cap a bit and you will know it that was the cause

 

 I run a Twin Briggs with the kill wires to the coils disconnected. this engine also has an electric solenoid which shuts off fuel when you turn off the key switch, so it does not matter if the coils kill wires are disconnected. It just runs for a few seconds after you turn it off.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,276]

I forgot about the fuel solenoid. It would require adequate voltage to keep it applied and will not work if the voltage gets low. The pto applied is another strain on the electrical system.

 

Just discovered the Kohler powered models in the early 90's 200-Series used a fuel solenoid on the vertical shaft models.

 

Garry

[ohiofarmer 3,353]

That is good. Even a blind squirrel [me] finds a nut on occasion