lynnmor 7,817 #51 Posted August 12, 2020 Check for 12 volts at the coil. Check the ignition module per the instructions in the Onan service manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrightorchid 261 #52 Posted August 12, 2020 (edited) I have that and will see what I can find out. The coils and modules are not cheap. thank you! Edited August 12, 2020 by wrightorchid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrightorchid 261 #53 Posted August 25, 2020 (edited) I am not getting 12 v at the coil. The coil resistance is within specs. I jumped the battery to the coil, to test it as well, and based on using the test light check, should be replaced, but that does not make sense based on the resistance. When the power to the coil, it did try to start, and showed spark in the inline spark tester. The seat safety has been bypassed, and I don't see anything obvious that is loose or broken/disconnected. The 9 pin looks ok, although fragile. With the ignition in Start, it turns fine, but no spark. (I do understand this is a different route) I am not sure how to test the ignition switch, nor the PTO interlock safety switches which both look original. It appears there are actually 2 PTO switches, one for start and one for run. I have reviewed the demystification guide and understand the flow, just not sure on testing procedures. At a bit of a loss at the moment. I had this running for a few hours a few weeks ago. Edited August 25, 2020 by wrightorchid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,817 #54 Posted August 26, 2020 You need basic skills using a volt-ohm meter. Test for voltage on both the I and B terminals of the ignition switch with it turned on. Check for voltage on both sides of the PTO switch and check for voltage on both sides of the seat switch. The problem will be where the voltage is lost. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrightorchid 261 #55 Posted August 26, 2020 (edited) I am trying sir. Electrical is not my best skill. With the connectors plugged in how do you do this? Maybe pull the connector and check for continuity between these on the ignition? The seat switch was bypassed, and the wires connected. I see that there are actually 2 PTO switches, so I'll try to test those also. looks like the ignition PTO switch was bypassed also. Checking the ignition switch and grounds. Quote Edited August 26, 2020 by wrightorchid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,817 #56 Posted August 26, 2020 You can connect the negative lead on the voltmeter to ground, then probe next to the connection with a pin that has the positive lead connected. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrightorchid 261 #57 Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) There was a failed connection on the seat safety switch. Cleaned the grounds and connections, added dielectric grease. Replaced the ignition switch that was iffy.. Replaced the gas cap that had a loose top that was catching water from the hole in the seat base, not the original type that was basically funnelimg water into the tank every time it rained, which in Florida is almost daily. Running good now. Always learning. Thanks all. Edited August 29, 2020 by wrightorchid 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
