520h with water

[wrightorchid 261]

I have a 520H which was last run a couple years ago.  Due to issues with my 312-8 needing a total engine rebuild, I tried to start it after putting fresh gas in it.  Apparently, there was water in the tank (Florida humidity, I guess), and now all of that went into the engine, no wonder it would not start.  I have since drained the tank, and putting in a new fuel line and filter. 

 

My question is, how do I get the water out of the engine and carb, without taking it apart? Do I need to? Now that there will be gas flowing, will there be much water in the cylinders and intake?  Should I just try to start it and hope for the best?  I certainly don't want to damage the engine, but I just don't know.

[WHX?? 51,745]

I would try hand feeding it with the fuel line disconnected at the carb and draining into a bucket to try and purge water out of the pump It might run rough for a little but water should evap off. Hopefully not too much water in the carb bowl. 

 

 

Edited June 11, 2020 by WHX24

[wrightorchid 261]

That is what I am working on, with a new line and filter.  This machine is much more complicated than my 312-8, and I don't think it had too much love in the later years.  

[lynnmor 7,817]

This is one time to use E10 fuel so that is absorbs water.  Do an immediate oil change when you get it to fire.

[wrightorchid 261]

Why the oil change?  just wondering?

[lynnmor 7,817]

3 hours ago, wrightorchid said:

Why the oil change?  just wondering?

Since you believe that water made it to the carb, and stated it was not run for years, the oil should be changed to prevent damage.  It is only 2 quarts with a new filter. 

 

If you would see my current Onan project, it would make anyone a believer in oil changes.  I can't save this low hour engine, few usable parts left, not even the block.

[wrightorchid 261]

Fuel lines and filter replaced, drained the tank, fresh fuel added..  Fuel is now getting to the carb.  Now the battery is low (new one, that was on the 312, but was not running to charge)  on the charger now, and hopefully it will start tomorrow.  It does turn over, just not too well.  I have the air filter off, so hopefully some of the moisture will evaporate, but this is Florida, and been a bit rainy today.

[lynnmor 7,817]

If water got past the pistons and into the crankcase it will be under the oil and will not evaporate in your lifetime.

[wrightorchid 261]

Morning update.  After a few cranks, it started. YAY!    It ran fine for about 2 minutes and then died!  Tried to restart, and it won't. (Yes, I put it back in neutral to crank)  There is some crud in the new fuel filter, but I would hope none of that would pass to the carb.  I am at a loss as to what to do now.  I noticed the oil breather was taped over, and a quick search says worn out rings. I hope that is not the case. I am beginning to wonder if this is even worth messing with. I paid $350 for it.  My 312-8 engine needs a rebuild, and I am also now unemployed currently, but with 2.5 acres that has not been mowed in a very long time, it's looking pretty bad.

 

After further review, there must have still been some water in the gas tank.  Looks like the left side of the tank has a low area, that I was not aware of, when I emptied it at the petcock, and wiped it out the best I could.  Nothing is ever simple.

 

Edited June 12, 2020 by wrightorchid

[WHX?? 51,745]

Every 520 is worth messing with in my book but don't listen to me I only have four of them. 

[oliver2-44 10,715]

Go back to the basics

Compression- if you have a gage. If not pull plugs and hold your  finger tightly across the hole. Crank it and see if it pushes finger off hole.

Spark - are the plugs clean or black?  If clean, Ground each plug and verify spark

Fuel try to start it by carefully spraying some Gas into carb. If it runs carb may need cleaning.

Air Verify when you crank it you can feel air coming out the exhaust

 

[WHX?? 51,745]

33 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Go back to the basics

Maybe that crud plugged the gas cock? 

Edited June 12, 2020 by WHX24

[Darb1964 1,119]

I would think if it fired up initially that the rings are not the problem, fuel delivery is. I like using a mix of gas and marvel mystery oil, sprayed into the carburetor, oil helps compression in a dry motor and protect from damage. I would add some to the tank and when you change the oil, do that soon before working it at all. The oil in it now is year's old, you don't want to damage that motor. The 520 is a beast, treat it right and you will be happy ☺

[wrightorchid 261]

I am pulling the tank, and making sure I have good gas,  I then I will try again,  There was still water in the carb or linefrom somewhere.  The plugs look OK and are correct (Autolite 104) so that is good.  I don't have a compression tester, nor spark tester, but will try to get those soon.  Would be much nicer if I was up north, and these were more common,  Learning as I go.

 

I will do an oil change on this asap.  Also the hydro needs changing, and it has a Wheel Horse filter on it, so I know it's been a while.  The old fuel lines were dated 2006.  Hydro fan is also broken, no fans remain. would it be safe to run for a while without it?  or would it overheat, and ruin everything?

 

Edited June 12, 2020 by wrightorchid
more details

[Stormin 9,984]

  I'm a little late but I agree with the oil change etc. Only thing to add, I would have removed the plugs and spun the engine to spit out any water in the cylinders.

[wrightorchid 261]

Thank you all very much for your help and ideas.  I'll put it back together tomorrow, change the oil and hope for the best.  I did not see much water on the plugs, but did not spin it.  

Edited June 12, 2020 by wrightorchid

[Darb1964 1,119]

Is the hydro oil looking like it was over heated, dark, the fan needs to be replaced before you run or work that tractor at all. In a warm climate that transmission will bern up fast,  in cold temps it would over heat quick. That would concern me if that tractor is a Florida native.

[Tuneup 1,452]

My 16 has a plug access to the main at the bowl bottom that allows a full carb drain. you can even get a Gumout straw in there for a fast flush. Yours may vary but its worth a look. I'd never run a hydro without ventilation.

[wrightorchid 261]

I was able to get it started, and ran for a few, not great, but I think it will be OK for now.  I will change the oil, as it was a bit milky.  The hydro oil looks fine, but is a little low.  I'll order the fan.  It was there, but fell apart.  It will take about 3 hours to cut the grass, so I don't want to damage it. 

 

who can I order the fan from?  Does anybody have new ones, that are not 20 years old an brittle?

Edited June 15, 2020 by wrightorchid

[WHX?? 51,745]

https://www.ebay.com/i/283351662155?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=283351662155&targetid=4580221852015640&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=395665040&mkgroupid=1225955674700145&rlsatarget=pla-4580221852015640&abcId=1129776&merchantid=51291&msclkid=71853329edcb1debcca36dce45b1960c

[lynnmor 7,817]

I had a fan slipping from a loose bolt, the hydro ran hot after mowing for a short time.  I was surprised how fast they heat up and how much the fan is needed.

[wrightorchid 261]

So, now that I have the new fan, how do I remove the bolt holding on the old one?  I assume it was the original.  I also assume lefty loosey, but since the whole thing turns when I put a wrench on it, and there are no flats on it to hold it still, what is a good way to go?  It won't budge.  I have the fender pan and the foot rest parts off of it for better access.  I only have a big heavy duty impact wrench, and don't want to shear it off.  I would also have to remove the wheel to attempt this.

[lynnmor 7,817]

Try breaking the fan into pieces and then punch out the plastic that remains behind the bolt and washer.  Then heat the bolt with a propane torch to weaken the bond of the thread locker that Wheel Horse used.  You have the bolt hot enough when a small drop of water sizzles when applied to the head.

[wrightorchid 261]

That would explain why it was not breaking loose.  I don't want to round the head over, nor break it off.  At least it is not rusty.  I think the battery must have leaked at some point, as there are some parts that are really rusted through.  At least It's getting some care now days.

[wrightorchid 261]

It runs!  I was able to get the bavk mowed and was stsrting on the front when the pto  belt jumped the pully in the mule drive.  The pully is very rusy and rough so the belt was wearing quickly.  I'll try to smooth it down.  

Over time the motor smoothed out and runs much smoother now.  Going down hil it does tend to throttle down a bit, which seems odd. 

To do items:

1.  Fixing the steering wheel centering as it turns far to the right and left tire digs in, and does not turn left as much. 

2. Repairing the lift cylinder or hydro line as it is leaking oil onto the back of the engine.  Does not appear to be from the oil filter, but that general area.  Could this be from the from the fuel pump?

3. Add Matt's hydro pedal kit.  This is the earlier 520 with the lever and its hard to turn one handed.

4. Replace the muffler.  I need the gaskets and pray the bolts will loosen.

5 look at the brake and lever linkage.

6 adjust the brake band.

 

This has had a rough life and glad it is running.

 

Edited June 25, 2020 by wrightorchid