Hitch pin removal

[WHGrizzy 0]

First of all this is my first post, and so fat this is this most informitave site I have found for W.H. criteria. You all are awesome. Back to my question, dilema. I have a 312-8, I used my cultivator the other night then went to put on the tiller so I can get the garden planted. I went to take off the off the sleave hitch and the pin is seized in their pretty tight. I have soaked it, heated it, banged on it and nothing hapens. Is this pin something that can be replaced if I had to cut it? This will be my last option but before it comes it I need to know if there is way to replace it. Thanks to everybody who helps me out.

[sorekiwi 761]

The last one I did was a real b!tch, and I ended up cutting it each side of the gearbox with a sawzall.

The 3 pieces beat out reasonably easily once the hitch was off the tractor.

There's nothing special about the pin, just mild steel with a couple of grooves for the snap rings, but Sohars lists it for $11.36 which is less than you would pay a machine shop to make one.

Make sure you put some sort of anti-sieze on the new one before you install it!

Oh, and :omg:

[jtmoyer 1]

i have seen in other posts someone used a hitch pin to hold in the slot hitch, something to think about.

[porkchop 1]

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. I went to tractor supply and got a 3/4 inch bolt and locknut to replace it. It works great.

[bo dawg 477]

Next time that happens try heating it up with the torch and stick candle wax on it. The heat will draw the wax in and that baby will slip right out. I done it on one of mind, worked great.

:drool:

[JoeMonag 1]

I had a problem geting my hitch pin out in Dec. on my 88' 310-8. I don't think it had ever been removed. I soaked it over a week period with PB blaster. I removed the spacers and the c rings. I then put a pipe wench on the pin and put a 3 foot pipe over the pipe wench., and pulled down on the pipe. And gradually got the pin to turn little by little. After a while I could turn the pin a full 360 derees. I kept it oiled, and soon I could turn it with just a pair of channel lock pliers. I removed the left rear tire,and supported the the tractor with a jack. I then took a two inch square by 6inch long oak block, held it next to the pin and tapped the pin by whacking the block with my 8lb. sledge hammer, holding the hammer right near the head. It began to move slowly, andf I kept it oiled with PB blaster. Eventually it came out.

I dressed the pin on my grinder and wire brush, on one end I drilled a hole for a 1/8 inch hair pin, on the other I replaced the c ring. I made new spacers out of 3/4" emt. I straighten out the hitch assy. and repainted everthing. I use a washer on each end of the ourt board end of the pin. Now at least monthly, I pull the hair-pin, remove the pin and lather it with some grease. I remove the hitch assy. in the winter, and keep the pin hole lubed.

Keep in mind that the pin hole is part of the two piece transmission case, that is cast iron, so use care when using a hammer on the pin, as you don't want th crack the transmission case. Good luck Joe in Norton

[bo dawg 477]

You also take a chance on breaking off the ear the pin go's through on the case.

I tell ya the heat and wax trick works beatiful, and you can pull it out almost with your fingers if you could keep from getting burnt. But its a lot less work too.

[Stigian 1,234]

:drool:

Having the same sort of fun at the mo trying to get a very seized pin out the back of a trans..

Even feeding it mild sulfuric acid for a year hasn't changed it's mind about moving

At the "trying to drill it out" stage at the mo :(

[pfrederi 17,147]

H

At the "trying to drill it out" stage at the mo

I had a very recalcitrant pin on a Commando 8 Trans that has sat out side for years.

I tried heat (mapp gas and Oxygen torch) candle wax, PB Blaster and Kroil over a several week period. Nada. I wanted to use a press but teh transmission is too awkwardly shaped to get it int my press. I wanted to go through teh transmission and overhaul it.

Finally resorted to a sawzall. Cut through the case and pin at the seam. If you start from the back side you can get through the pin and still have plenty of case mating surface for reassembly. After the transmission was split i could get it in the press and adequately support the cast iron flange. Took a fair amount of pressure but pin came out of both halves. The saw slot is barely noticeable.

Never sieze had now been put on all my hitch pins!!

[CasualObserver 3,406]

WHGrizzy... check out this post from the FAQ. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php/topic/6122-clevis-hitch/

And here's a pic of what the hitch pin is and what it looks like in place. Works real well.

[WHGrizzy 0]

Thanks for all the help, I got the pin out late last night. I tried a couple of tricks but in the end I did ruined the pin. So I am going to put a hitch pin in that sounds to me to be a great idea. Thanks again for all the help, this web site is awesome. I know I will probadly be picking your brains on my rebuild this coming winter. I will start posting pics as I go long

[Stigian 1,234]

Glad you got the pin out, they can be a pain..

Thought you would all like to see the remains of my (well not me personally but the trans) pin..

Lots of drill, cutting two slots through from the inside. more than plenty of heat, and a large amount of hammer work got the pin out from where it had been hiding maybe since 1971..