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3WHDave

The monster lives!

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wfrpalm

I hope you get your running problems figured out but that sure looks good.

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3WHDave

Thanks wfrpalm, it's running great, and upon research it appears that the carb I bought has the lever on the wrong side, thus reversing the cable action.  Oh well, perhaps I will keep-as-is to detour any non-authorized use!

  • Haha 1

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pacer

The choke position on the majority of the import carbs are this way and are not compatible with WH hook up, Ive noticed that there seem to be a few popping up that specify the choke being the right way.

 

What I do is take the choke rod off the old carb and change them out --- this is a simple process.... but, the kicker is the 2 teeny screws that hold the butterfly can be a big snag, they will break off, strip out, etc, But it can still work with a little persistance. - I drill them out and retap with a similar size.

 

Or just do some more searching on the bay for a carb with the correct choke.

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3WHDave

Thanks pacer.  I reread my post, wow, way too many typos and mistakes!  I do have the original carb, so I may pull the choke off that one and place it on the new carb.  The old carb was rough!

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dcrage

I think the “isavetractors” (sp?) website has  some videos on switching the choke cable placement. 

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pacer

I forgot to mention one factor in doing this choke shaft change out that is pretty important. When you have the butterfly removed and are ready to pull the shaft out pay close attention, there is a small ball bearing/spring on the left side that can - and will! pop out and go flying.  Drape a rag over the end or keep your hand cupped to catch it. It acts as a detent at the open and the closed position on the shaft.

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3WHDave

I have two more issues to deal with and want some advice on where best to post them.  First, the shifter suffers from PDF (product design failure). Simply put, what a bad idea designing a independent two-fork shift system that relies on friction to hold each fork in-place. When I was on the C4 Corvette program in the early 80’s we joked about such an approach, but the G-forces sobered us up.  My D180 is an early model with the three-slot shifter.  My model suffers from fork-disengagement at random intervals. Evidently HW changed the approach and added a manual parking brake pawl. The second issue is the parking pawl itself.  It was disconnected when I bought the unit, and I have been debating reconnecting it in the OEM configuration or putting a non-defacing lever somewhere to control it.  All input is respected and considered.  

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bc.gold

I always remove the plastic garbage or use crimps with out the plastic then use moisture proof shrink tube to avoid future electrical issues caused by corrosion.

 

In addition always solder the wire to the connector.

 

shrink.jpg

 

 

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3WHDave

Thank BCGOLD, I agree, and will take your advice.  This machine shakes way-too-much for a simple crimp.

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