3WHDave 60 #1 Posted May 24, 2020 (edited) The D-180 lives! I took the monster on its maiden voyage yesterday, and took a picture of the machine on my front lawn with a boom hooked to the three point hitch. The hydraulics work fine, all that’s left to do now is to adjust the neutral position (which sounds like fun). The trans-axle went together fine the second time, as I manage to wipe out to needle bearings by leaving the woodruff key on the end of the shaft, not one of my prouder moments! After taking a picture on the front lawn the tractor didn’t start correctly, and was acting as though it was flooded. I managed to limp it back to my garage, we were upon examination I found that the vacuum hose for the governor had come off the carburetor. I reconnected it but still, it was not running correctly and eventually stalled. I spent a good hour examining that last night and found that the vacuum governor hose had become disconnected at the carburetor, so I reconnected it. Still, the engine would not start and act as though it was flooded. I pulled the plugs, clean them, sprayed ether in the carburetor, but no start!I simply assumed that I must’ve flooded the machine, and decided to let it sit overnight. This morning it started, but again it ran very rough and would not warm up. Every attempt to shut the carburetor off resulted in a stall. I broke out the manual, set the idle mixture and the fuel mixture screws pulled the plugs again, clean them and gapped them, and was able to start the motor. However, it was running very rough. As I looked into the carburetor I could see that the butterfly valve was closed however, the choke lever was set to run! I don’t know how this is possible, and I do seek advice. I have an OEM dashboard and an OEM carburetor! Ideas? Edited May 24, 2020 by 3WHDave 3 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfrpalm 218 #2 Posted May 24, 2020 I hope you get your running problems figured out but that sure looks good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3WHDave 60 #3 Posted May 24, 2020 Thanks wfrpalm, it's running great, and upon research it appears that the carb I bought has the lever on the wrong side, thus reversing the cable action. Oh well, perhaps I will keep-as-is to detour any non-authorized use! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #4 Posted May 24, 2020 The choke position on the majority of the import carbs are this way and are not compatible with WH hook up, Ive noticed that there seem to be a few popping up that specify the choke being the right way. What I do is take the choke rod off the old carb and change them out --- this is a simple process.... but, the kicker is the 2 teeny screws that hold the butterfly can be a big snag, they will break off, strip out, etc, But it can still work with a little persistance. - I drill them out and retap with a similar size. Or just do some more searching on the bay for a carb with the correct choke. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3WHDave 60 #5 Posted May 24, 2020 Thanks pacer. I reread my post, wow, way too many typos and mistakes! I do have the original carb, so I may pull the choke off that one and place it on the new carb. The old carb was rough! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcrage 630 #6 Posted May 24, 2020 I think the “isavetractors” (sp?) website has some videos on switching the choke cable placement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #7 Posted May 25, 2020 I forgot to mention one factor in doing this choke shaft change out that is pretty important. When you have the butterfly removed and are ready to pull the shaft out pay close attention, there is a small ball bearing/spring on the left side that can - and will! pop out and go flying. Drape a rag over the end or keep your hand cupped to catch it. It acts as a detent at the open and the closed position on the shaft. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3WHDave 60 #8 Posted May 27, 2020 I have two more issues to deal with and want some advice on where best to post them. First, the shifter suffers from PDF (product design failure). Simply put, what a bad idea designing a independent two-fork shift system that relies on friction to hold each fork in-place. When I was on the C4 Corvette program in the early 80’s we joked about such an approach, but the G-forces sobered us up. My D180 is an early model with the three-slot shifter. My model suffers from fork-disengagement at random intervals. Evidently HW changed the approach and added a manual parking brake pawl. The second issue is the parking pawl itself. It was disconnected when I bought the unit, and I have been debating reconnecting it in the OEM configuration or putting a non-defacing lever somewhere to control it. All input is respected and considered. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #9 Posted May 27, 2020 I always remove the plastic garbage or use crimps with out the plastic then use moisture proof shrink tube to avoid future electrical issues caused by corrosion. In addition always solder the wire to the connector. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3WHDave 60 #10 Posted May 28, 2020 Thank BCGOLD, I agree, and will take your advice. This machine shakes way-too-much for a simple crimp. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites