Jump to content
DavidL

Smoke from under the gas tank near in the ignition

Recommended Posts

DavidL

Can anyone help - just rebuilt the engine on by K181 8HP tractor (1976).  It was running well then all of a sudden there was a large amount of smoke from the wiring under the tank and the wires looked burned. One of them came from the starter solenoid. I can't find a good wiring diagram, and am not sure what the heat sink is near the ignition switch. It is possible one of the connection to that heat sink got disconnected.  What is that heat sink? And any suggestions about what the problem might be and how to fix it.

Thanks very much,

David 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZXT
13 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Can anyone help - just rebuilt the engine on by K181 8HP tractor (1976).  It was running well then all of a sudden there was a large amount of smoke from the wiring under the tank and the wires looked burned. One of them came from the starter solenoid. I can't find a good wiring diagram, and am not sure what the heat sink is near the ignition switch. It is possible one of the connection to that heat sink got disconnected.  What is that heat sink? And any suggestions about what the problem might be and how to fix it.

Thanks very much,

David 

The "heat sink" you're talking about is the voltage regulator. I'd get in there and look for wires that have chaffed and become bare before anything else. I've not seen a voltage regulator "let the smoke out", but I suppose it's possible. The ammeter is another good possibility. Inspect it.

 

Also, welcome to the forum!

Edited by ZXT
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lynnmor

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

Pull off a battery cable NOW!

 

Then trace wiring till you find the short.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Welcome to the forum.

Just a guess on the model you have

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Sounds like the guys have got you covered..:WRS:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bottjernat1

:text-welcomewave:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DavidL
2 hours ago, ZXT said:

The "heat sink" you're talking about is the voltage regulator. I'd get in there and look for wires that have chaffed and become bare before anything else. I've not seen a voltage regulator "let the smoke out", but I suppose it's possible. The ammeter is another good possibility. Inspect it.

 

Also, welcome to the forum!

Thanks very much. I'll take a look

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DavidL
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Welcome to the forum.

Just a guess on the model you have

Garry

Thanks very much. it's a four speed but I assume the wiring is the same.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DavidL
On 5/21/2020 at 9:30 AM, gwest_ca said:

Welcome to the forum.

Just a guess on the model you have

Garry

Garry - thanks again. Is there any way to test the regulator without having the engine running?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I do not think there is any bench test for regulators.  Must be hooked up and engine running.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

The aluminum body of the regulator requires a good ground. As many of our tractors get older the chassis ground deteriorates so we add a ground wire to one of the mounting bolts and go back to the ground cable of the battery.

 

One other thing you can try. These regulators must see battery voltage before they can regulate the charge current. On the flip side if they do not see battery voltage there is no way for the charge current to get to the battery.

Turn the key to the RUN position without the engine running. Measure the battery voltage across the battery posts. Now move the + test lead to the DC terminal on the regulator. Should have the same voltage reading. If not the connections are compromised somewhere.

 

Garry

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DavidL
17 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The aluminum body of the regulator requires a good ground. As many of our tractors get older the chassis ground deteriorates so we add a ground wire to one of the mounting bolts and go back to the ground cable of the battery.

 

One other thing you can try. These regulators must see battery voltage before they can regulate the charge current. On the flip side if they do not see battery voltage there is no way for the charge current to get to the battery.

Turn the key to the RUN position without the engine running. Measure the battery voltage across the battery posts. Now move the + test lead to the DC terminal on the regulator. Should have the same voltage reading. If not the connections are compromised somewhere.

 

Garry

 

 

Thanks Gary - I am not sure if the regulator is any good. It looks a bit burned.  I thought I saw a link to a replacement, but I can't find it back. Do you know what replacement will work?  Thanks again. David

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Any chance your tractor is a 1975 model? No 4-speeds in 1976 except for in Europe.

The original regulator is # 101450 and rated to handle 15 amps.

Here is a replacement supplied by Stens

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=6309

 

Garry

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DavidL

Thanks all. I rewired it and it was running well.  The regulator seems OK.   Then it stalled a few times.  Not sure what the problem is now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...