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Anthony Wendover

Onan p220G rebuild

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tom2p
4 hours ago, Anthony Wendover said:

So update guys. This thing is starting to go back together the last couple days. Pistons are in along with the camshaft. Had to lightly sand down the ends of the camshaft with very fine grit emery cloth to get it to slide into the new bearings. So far this thing is super tight! Getting the valves in today and then start going over everything. Should be ready to fire in a couple of days time!


been decades since I installed a camshaft - and even then I only installed a few 

 

but I still recall what a PITA it was to install a camshaft 

 

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Anthony Wendover

Ok so picture time. I didn't get as much done as i was hoping tonight. Ended up getting distracted and did a couple things to my truck. Any-who I do have a couple question that popped up as going back together. First off what do you guys use for the valve springs to compress them. I have a compressor tool but its what iv used on a typical engine. On these small engines particularity this one its almost impossible to pull the spring back far enough to get the keepers on. The tool ends up hitting the spout in between both valves. And then on the back of the crank case does everything look normal there? I dropped something off it i thought in the parts washer the only thing i found though was the little ball bearing, i put that back under the governor arm. Does anything sit in the little hole where the U shape comes off the govenor stick? Or does it right right in front of the governor? Other than that its coming together pretty nice right now! 

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lynnmor

Lift up the black governor shaft and drop the ball in below it.  The U should then be centered.

 

I use a spring compressor similar to this one: Flat Head Spring Compressor

 

Under the governor bell is a ball spacer, check that it is tight by pulling and twisting on it.  To see it you must carefully remove the clip.

 

The spring pin must go in the plastic bushing when installing the timing cover, a job that must be done with care and is easy miss the target.

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Anthony Wendover
13 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Lift up the black governor shaft and drop the ball in below it.  The U should then be centered.

 

I use a spring compressor similar to this one: Flat Head Spring Compressor

 

Under the governor bell is a ball spacer, check that it is tight by pulling and twisting on it.  To see it you must carefully remove the clip.

 

The spring pin must go in the plastic bushing when installing the timing cover, a job that must be done with care and is easy miss the target.

 

Thank you so much! Great tips! Hope to get back on this tomorrow if all goes well.

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onanparts.com

Did you get the other oil pump mounting bolt in?

 

 

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Anthony Wendover
On 6/5/2020 at 10:41 AM, onanparts.com said:

Did you get the other oil pump mounting bolt in?

 

 

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Great eye! I did get that bolt on! Did not even notice i took the picture before i put it on. This is what i am up to now.. Just found a new manifold for it. If one doesn't ship soon from the first spot i found it then I'm ordering it from another spot and hopefully get that next week when the carb gets here.. I can not wait to fire this thing up!

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Anthony Wendover

Well after two years I have an engine rebuild update! After waiting to see if I could track down a few final NOS pieces I finally did! Then had some health issues last year but the project started two years ago is finally almost complete! Tonight I started the engine for the first time. She seems to be running half decent. I have my hand on the governor arm to keep it idled down as it was running to fast. I need to try to dial the carb in some yet. I am wondering if I put the  gear cover on wrong as the governor arm is not moving at all. When putting that on two years ago i couldnt actually figure out just what the service manual was telling me 

 

"When installing the gear cover, make sure the pin in the gear cover engages the nylon lined (smooth) hole in the governor cup. Turn the governor cup so the nylon lined hole is at the three o’clock position. Use a small amount of grease to assist in holding governor cup in position. The smooth side of the governor yoke must ride against the governor cup. Turn the governor arm and shaft clockwise as far as possible and hold in this position until the gear cover is installed flush against the crankcase. Be careful not to damage the gear cover oil seal (Figure 9)"

 

So I think unfortunately I will have to open it up and check that out. But all in all not bad if that ends up being the only hiccup in a two year process. 

 

if anyone could make that more clear or show with pictures id appreciate it!

 

For now I leave you with the video of it running :)

 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YHY3L8v_lFI

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lynnmor

These directions should make it clear.  Getting that pin in the hole is indeed tricky.

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RED-Z06

Basically you want this hole to align with this pin 

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lynnmor
1 hour ago, RED-Z06 said:

Basically you want this hole to align with this pin

 

 

You also want to have that fork centered to the hole, if it is not then the ball under the end of the shaft is missing.  This photo probably has the ball missing.

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Anthony Wendover

Thank you guys. I’m pulling it apart now. Getting ready to remove the flywheel. I’ll post updated pics sometime today or night. Thank you for the help. Hopefully I can get this figured out. 

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Anthony Wendover

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Anthony Wendover

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Anthony Wendover

So I did confirm that little ball was beneath the governor arm. So putting this back on all I have to do is make sure that black nipple goes into the orange hole on the cam gear? I don’t have to do anything else with the governor arm itself?

 

It seems that the black nipple is in the orange hole. Its hard to tell when it goes on. But I put everything back on i think it was in the hole to begin with. Going to reassemble and see how it goes.

 

Edited by Anthony Wendover

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Anthony Wendover

Ok got the engine back on the tractor and started it. Same thing appears to be happening. Maybe my issue is somewhere else? As you can see it’s idling decent. But when I use the throttle to control it. It goes crazy and starts back firing. Then when I move the throttle back to the bottom the engine doesn’t idle down I have to grab the governor arm and move it and then the engine does what it’s suppose to. Any ideas? Is it internal or external I can’t figure it out. 
 

 

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RED-Z06
6 minutes ago, Anthony Wendover said:

Ok got the engine back on the tractor and started it. Same thing appears to be happening. Maybe my issue is somewhere else? As you can see it’s idling decent. But when I use the throttle to control it. It goes crazy and starts back firing. Then when I move the throttle back to the bottom the engine doesn’t idle down I have to grab the governor arm and move it and then the engine does what it’s suppose to. Any ideas? Is it internal or external I can’t figure it out. 
 

 

Something definitely way..way off here, hard to tell how badly from audio distortion but...it seems like a big air leak to start with.  And next to no governor response.  You have replaced the plastic ball spacer with a metal one im sure by now right?  

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RED-Z06
2 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

Something definitely way..way off here, hard to tell how badly from audio distortion but...it seems like a big air leak to start with.  And next to no governor response.  You have replaced the plastic ball spacer with a metal one im sure by now right?  

Unless yours has the tabbed ball spacer that engages the gear...onan kept changing the design, the pressed plastic design was faulty and a fix was to mold a tab on it 

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Anthony Wendover

Well I’m an idiot 😡 found the governor issue just now. There is a wire clip next to the governor arm and I just noticed it ever so slightly touched the throttle linkage arm. This was preventing movement. :angry-cussingwhite: wasted a day on this. The spacer is metal not plastic.  
 

However now if I do give it throttle it back fires and pops an awful lot and seems like it’s going to fast. So I will have to figure that out now. In person it doesn’t sound like air leaks just the popping. Going to put the air cleaner on now and run it again and see how it all sounds. 

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lynnmor

It appears that you don't have the vacuum hose on the fitting next to the carburetor.

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Anthony Wendover
11 hours ago, lynnmor said:

It appears that you don't have the vacuum hose on the fitting next to the carburetor.

Yes you saw right. Last night I noticed it myself. I didn’t have the hose to hook up yet. After thinking for a while I capped the hole and the engine runs amazing. Sometimes me writing a bunch of stuff and rereading it as I work through it helps. And of course all the help from everyone here. So happy to say the two year engine rebuild is complete. Just need to source that chrome air cover. I have been running it today breaking it in and changing the oil and everything is running great. 
 

This afternoon I’ll move the engine to the shelf so I can work on the rear bearing in the transaxle. That should be tons of fun I know I’ll be posting a lot regarding that haha. Then everything will be ready for paint and to be reassembled. 
 

again thank you to everyone on this forum for all the guidance and help while I did this. You guys all rock. :bow-blue::music-deathmetal:

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RED-Z06
13 hours ago, lynnmor said:

It appears that you don't have the vacuum hose on the fitting next to the carburetor.

All the onans ive had...never seen a manifold vac port...whats it do...the gauge?

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Anthony Wendover
16 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

All the onans ive had...never seen a manifold vac port...whats it do...the gauge?

Yes it’s a line that comes off the manifold and goes straight to the vacuum gauge. The manifold I have didn’t have the port drilled so I drilled and tapped it to match what was originally on the tractor. 

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