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TC10284

416-8 with jacked up wiring

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TC10284

Have a 416-8 model 73420 with jacked up wiring from the previous owner. Trying to put back to original.  

So I have gotten rid of all that they did and am back to the original wiring. 

However, I'm left with some wires that I'm not certain yet goes where. 

I have 3 pink wires, 2 red wires, and 2 white wires. Here are some pics.

I've looked at a wiring diagram for my model/year and I'm still not sure where/how to connect these guys. 

 

Also in the pics, I have an issue with the test switch, where the plastic connector has completely disintegrated and am wondering how to rewire that guy. 

 

Pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FCjUkHx9HTEKskaV8

 

Thanks!

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gwest_ca

Do you have the detailed wiring diagrams?

Click on the picture to see a note/mistake on this file.

Pink usually are related to the gauges and the oil pressure sender.

These diagrams may have more wiring color coding than the main diagram.

Garry

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TC10284
Posted (edited)
On 3/26/2020 at 6:23 AM, gwest_ca said:

Do you have the detailed wiring diagrams?

Click on the picture to see a note/mistake on this file.

Pink usually are related to the gauges and the oil pressure sender.

These diagrams may have more wiring color coding than the main diagram.

Garry

 

Yeah, that's the one I was looking at. I'm still not sure exactly. 

 

Looking at this diagram, it looks like the red wire is coming from terminal B on the key switch, then goes to 25A fuse, then goes to the battery. Then another red wire feeds a 30A fuse that then feeds the two white wires. So I think I need to hook up a small 12v battery and see which red wire has voltage on it, connect that to a 25A fuse connecting to a white wire, and another with a 30A fuse going to the other white wire, and the remaining red wire goes just before the two fuses, which goes to the key switch on terminal B. 

 

Now for the three pinks:

I see one pink coming from the A terminal on the key switch that then goes to a 15A fuse, then to "Acc(essories?)" on the indicator light module, but then branches off and goes to the two positive terminals on the hour meter and then the volt meter. That's all I see for pinks. 

I think I may need to splice all three of these back together. 

 

Lastly, the most confusing one for me, is the test switch. The diagram only shows a red and a gray. Then I scroll down on the diagram and look at the Light Test Circuit. But again, I only see a Red and a Gray wire. The red and gray wires go to a connector that has three black wires that goes to the test switch on the dash. So where do I find one of these two, to three wire connectors? 

 

Does anyone know if my conclusions are close to being accurate? 

 

Edited by TC10284

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gwest_ca

Rainy day so did some coloring.

The blacks should all be grounds and the one to the oil pressure switch is only grounded when there oil pressure. That one allows the hour meter to run only when the engine runs.

You can download the color version if you have a color printer.

 

Garry

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TC10284
7 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Rainy day so did some coloring.

The blacks should all be grounds and the one to the oil pressure switch is only grounded when there oil pressure. That one allows the hour meter to run only when the engine runs.

You can download the color version if you have a color printer.

 

Garry

 

That's awesome! I do have a color printer, thanks! I'll look through this go through my thoughts again and see if it works. 

 

Any thoughts on the test switch? 

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TC10284

An update. I finally had some time to work on this again this weekend. I used your colored diagram to do the rewire. 

I'm getting frustrated with it because I spent a good amount of time on the wiring but no luck.

 

I have a battery jump pack connected to the battery terminals. 

It does nothing when I turn the switch on. The voltmeter doesn't work. I don't hear any clicking at all when I turn the switch to start from run. 

 

Some pics of my work is below. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2orccdgBT3Y4dbbU9

 

In the first two pics you can see where I branched off from the red wire that comes from the battery, that goes to a 30A fuse, that then connects the two white wires. The other red wire goes to a 25A fuse and then to the B terminal on the key switch.

I have replaced the fuses, even though the originals looked fine. 

 

I also temporarily reused a wiring nut to connector all three of the pink gauge wires together. 

 

The only other concern I have is that I also had to reconnect the light blue wire that goes to the "Start Relay" from the "Starter Trigger", and the wire coming off the bottom of the relay is short. I may double check that my reconnection work there. Aside from that, the test switch. I did what I could there. Those are the last two pics. I basically connected all the wires up to two connectors and put them together. I wasn't sure what else to do there. 

 

I'm stumped...:ranting:

Edited by TC10284

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gwest_ca

I added color to the rest of the illustrations.

If the wires around the steering shaft have been up against the shaft the insulation may have flat spots worn into it. The wear will get to the copper wire and almost impossible to see but enough to cause a short and blow a fuse.

 

If you think the idiot lights or their wiring are a problem disconnect them until you get everything else working. The disconnection will not affect the rest of the tractor. They simply monitor the circuits.

 

Garry

 

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TC10284

Thanks so much for doing that!

 

Yeah, I guess that's where I'm confused. No fuses are being blown, even the originals. The thing ran before I started, just with the crazy custom wiring job. I wanted it back to original. 

 

I'll check the wiring around the steering shaft tomorrow. 

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richmondred01

Let me look. I’m pretty sure I have a 416 wiring harness.

if so I’ll pm you some photos. 
 

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TC10284

An update on this: 

Today I used a voltmeter to check to see if I got 12v all the way from the battery to the switch. I checked each of the connections I made along the way too. When I got to the key switch, I also saw 12v there - all the way at the terminal on the switch. So then I was like "huh..." and tested to see if I got anything. Turned key to Run and voltmeter turned on! Tried to crank it and to my surprise it turned over and started running. 

I'm guessing I had a loose connection somewhere along the line. Although after I got it running, I jiggled and tapped the wire connections I made but it didn't act like it lost connection. 

 

Only thing left is figuring out the test switch. Since I connected the wires together, the idiot lights flash constantly. Anyone know what type of connectors I need to replace what connects the red and gray wire, and the three black wires from the toggle switch? 

Edited by TC10284

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gwest_ca

You are getting there.

I do not know what the hardware looks like.

I believe only the oil light should flash so connecting the wires together may have them all flashing.

 

Does this look like what you have?

https://www.partstree.com/models/73420-416-8-toro-garden-tractor-sn-049000001-049999999-1994/electrical-system-14/

 

Garry

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TC10284
On 4/6/2020 at 4:29 AM, gwest_ca said:

You are getting there.

I do not know what the hardware looks like.

I believe only the oil light should flash so connecting the wires together may have them all flashing.

 

Does this look like what you have?

https://www.partstree.com/models/73420-416-8-toro-garden-tractor-sn-049000001-049999999-1994/electrical-system-14/

 

Garry

 

Yep! That's the one! Wow, what a price...
I may forget messing with the test switch. I rarely use them anyway. 

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