GT-14 A diamond in the rough

[953 nut 51,770]

51 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I'm thinking of sell some parts from my old blown engine for some funds for the project. Any idea what a 1971 breakerless ignition would go for?

The best way to find a willing buyer is to take a video of the engine running with the parts on it.   To many used parts sold on  do not work and the seller represented them as good.

[Oldskool 6,582]

39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

If you can check the parts with a dvom to verify operation they certainly have a healthy value.

Poke around on eBay and that'll give you a decent idea.

They have been verified. I had it all working then I found  out the engine has a broken connecting rod

[Oldskool 6,582]

I'll check ebay. Thanks

[Oldskool 6,582]

I got to say, lately the obvious escapes me lol. Didnt even think of looking on EBay. I just looked. Price for the coil and wire seems to be around $125

[ebinmaine 63,214]

1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

Price for the coil and wire seems to be around $125

Sounds about right.

 

 

I've been well known to overlook the obvious on MANY occasions..

[Pullstart 59,743]

1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

I got to say, lately the obvious escapes me lol. Didnt even think of looking on EBay. I just looked. Price for the coil and wire seems to be around $125

wow!  I’d make 25 bucks on my latest whole tractor just selling the coil assy?  Geesh!

[Oldskool 6,582]

12 minutes ago, pullstart said:

wow!  I’d make 25 bucks on my latest whole tractor just selling the coil assy?  Geesh!

Apparently. Seems the breakerless ignition is more money than the points and round coil type

[pfrederi 17,147]

3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Apparently. Seems the breakerless ignition is more money than the points and round coil type

 

 

The coils are not the part that usually fails.  I think the $125 will be on there for awhile.  Check completed listings to get a better price idea.  The triggers are what usually fails and  are worth more (to me at least) but testing them is tricky.

[Oldskool 6,582]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

The coils are not the part that usually fails.  I think the $125 will be on there for awhile.  Check completed listings to get a better price idea.  The triggers are what usually fails and  are worth more (to me at least) but testing them is tricky.

The ebay prices were on sold items. Didnt see anything for sale as far as the triggers are concerned. I know mine work. The engine has spark to the plug. So $125 is to much for the trigger,  coil and coil wire. I dont want to think I am ripping anybody off

[Oldskool 6,582]

The new engine pulley should be here tomorrow. The new fuel pump should be here on Tuesday, but still waiting for the epoxy for the electric clutch. I may get a ride this Summer yet.

[Oldskool 6,582]

One more piece of the puzzle

[Oldskool 6,582]

I'm just getting around to getting the engine ready to go in. It came out of a 312. My issue is there is what looks like a voltage regulator on the GT. There does not seem to be one on the 312. I'm not really sure what I need for wires to get the newer Kohler to run and charge. Also this newer Kohler has the oil sentry wires coming from the base. Not to mention I really need to rewire the whole tractor while Im at it.

[19richie66 16,954]

If its a magnum, the wiring is easy. I just put one in a 417. 

[Oldskool 6,582]

2 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

If its a magnum, the wiring is easy. I just put one in a 417. 

It is a magnum

[Pullstart 59,743]

There should be a voltage regulator on the magnum up on the left front of the engine when it’s in the frame.  On the blower shroud, left of the carb.  Anything there?  Wires?

[Oldskool 6,582]

8 hours ago, pullstart said:

There should be a voltage regulator on the magnum up on the left front of the engine when it’s in the frame.  On the blower shroud, left of the carb.  Anything there?  Wires?

Would this be it? There is a white wire on top and bottom and a purple in the middle.

[Oldskool 6,582]

Here is the other plug. 3 whites and a purple.

[953 nut 51,770]

3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Would this be it? There is a white wire on top and bottom and a purple in the middle

Yes, the purple wire will go to the "R" terminal of your ignition switch. Since this is a Magnum the rest of the wiring should be the same as a GT-14, just bypass the voltage regulator mounted on the GT-14 and ignore the oil sentry on the engine (unless you want to do some extra wiring).

[19richie66 16,954]

The two white wires at the regulator come from your stator. The purple wire between them comes snakes through the fan shroud and comes out at the bottom with another white wire and meets the two wires from the oil sensor in the bottom of the pan. That purple wire feeds 12 volts to your regulator. The two wires coming from the oil sender (in the block) I just cut off. The white wire coming from behind the flywheel cover with the purple wire is your kill wire for grounding out the coil and shutting down the engine. I ran mine to one side of a push button switch and the other side of the switch to battery ground. It will shut it off when you push and hold the button down. I just have to remember to turn off the key. 😁

Edited June 28, 2020 by 19richie66

[Oldskool 6,582]

The switch on the GT is no good but I have a different one I'm going to use. It has 6 spades 2 for the ground 2 for the start circuit and 2 for accessories. Would I run the purple wire to the spade that would be juicing up my accessories not the spade from the battery side? I hope this makes sense lol

[pfrederi 17,147]

That is a strange switch.  There are two terminals marked S and 2 ACC and 2 ground... You got a picture of this??  How does battery power get into it???

[19richie66 16,954]

The purple wire you can run straight to the battery or the hot side of the solenoid. 

[pfrederi 17,147]

29 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

The purple wire you can run straight to the battery or the hot side of the solenoid. 

That will work...but if the cutout part of the regulator goes bad it can drain the battery when not running..  Ignition switch isolates the R terminal in Off position.

[Oldskool 6,582]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

That is a strange switch.  There are two terminals marked S and 2 ACC and 2 ground... You got a picture of this??  How does battery power get into it???

I do not at the moment. There are no markings on the switch. I tested it with a continuity tester. 2 terminals have continuity when in the off position which I am using as the grounds to kill the engine. 2 other terminals have continuity when the switch is in the detent position then none when released. I am using them for the exciter wire for the solenoid. The last 2 terminals  have continuity when the key is turned back 1 click but not off. That would have one wire hot from the battery. The other would power lights, cigarette  lighter etc

[pfrederi 17,147]

Maybe no markings on the plastic but are there any stampings on the terminal themselves  Since you  are using a Magnum with magneto system I would be very very sure about the wiring before I hooked anything up.  Magic smoke is expensive...

Edited June 28, 2020 by pfrederi