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mark in ny

electric fuel pump questions

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mark in ny

My fuel pump is currently leaking fuel down the block. Since there really isn't a point spending the money for factory pump im going to convert to electrical. I just rewired the whole tractor and now I'm debating where i want to pull power from. Part of me wants to hook a wire to the coil terminal and put a inline fuse in. Seems like the easiest way of powering as far as power with the key on. Anyone have any other thoughts? Pump will be a posiflow 1-2 psi.

Edited by mark in ny

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953 nut
15 minutes ago, mark in ny said:

Part of me wants to hook a wire to the condenser terminal and put a inline fuse in

:WRS:

I presume you meant to say the ignition coil "+" terminal. That should work just fine.

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mark in ny

Yes I did mean coil Haha 

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ebinmaine

If you go any further away from your house or shop than what is convenient to walk, be sure to keep a spare fuse in the tractor.

 

Ask me how I know this.....

 

 

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peter lena

mark in ny,  this the site i used,and scroll down to , (   6bg6ga  ) for relay and fuse safety, its the best for reliable operation , pete  

 

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pfrederi

I use the I terminal (+ coil feed) for the power source .  Fuse is a good idea but I think the relay adds an unnecessary expense and complication.  One more item to fail and more connections to go bad over time.  the Posi flo pump electric draw is minimal 2-3 amps. 

Edited by pfrederi
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midpack
18 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 I think the relay adds an unnecessary expense and complication.  One more item to fail and more connections to go bad over time. 

maybe.  it's nice to know you have a clean unadulterated source of power direct from the battery though

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, midpack said:

maybe.  it's nice to know you have a clean unadulterated source of power direct from the battery though

I understand and agree with the logic there.

Automotive fuel pumps range between  4 and 10 amps normally and can go higher.

 

The low amperage draw with these low pressure pumps doesn't dictate the necessity of a relay.

It's also important to remember that most relays are a physically moving mechanical part on the inside and have a failure rate all their own.

 

Just be sure to use a good quality heavy enough gauge wire with weatherproof terminals and you should be in decent shape for years to come.

 

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pfrederi

I was wrong about the current draw ...according to Facet posi-flo spec sheet they draw  only 1.5 amps. 

 

 

If the power supplied by the I terminal you use for the pump fails...you have bigger problems ..meaning no spark.:P

Edited by pfrederi

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Oldcpecdr

I JUST installed an electric fuel pump this weekend. I was a little uncomfortable using the ignition as a power source.

I wired direct from the positive side of the solenoid through a toggle switch on the dash to be able to shut the pump down at any time, just in case....

 

Mike B

wh pump3.jpg

whpump1.jpg

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biged77

I temporarily wired the pump to the light circuit and disconnected the lights. This was several years ago, still that way.  Works for me, I don't mow at night. The light toggle switch stays on but could be turned off in an emergency.

 

Ed

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squonk

My Facet pump draws 5.9 amps when pumping fuel according to my meter. Your basic run of the mill lawnmower style ignition switch contacts aren't worth a hill of beans. I have no qualms about putting in a relay to power a continuous duty circuit for a pump. I deal with relays and contactors every day. You can get these relays for practically nothing at a u pull it auto salvage yard. And are simple to wire. If I ever have to install another electric, in goes a relay.

 

IMG_0012_zpsb30518d0.jpg.fcd9d982ad572bc344caa2acf4ff9e4f.jpg

Edited by squonk
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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, squonk said:

Facet pump draws 5.9 amps when pumping fuel according to my meter.

 

5 hours ago, pfrederi said:

..according to Facet posi-flo spec sheet they draw  only 1.5 amps

 

 

First let me just say I'm not trying to pit you two against each other. I quoted both just to get them in the same space to show the big difference between the two.

 

You've got me super curious to know how the difference is accounted for.

 

Different model numbers?

 

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squonk

Possibly the amp rating Paul quoted is a  no load rating. I'm sure the distance the pump has to push the fuel, any filters and type that are in line and height it has to lift the fuel also factor in.My pump is a Napa 6101051 which is a Facet FEP04SV. The specs don't give me any amp rating.

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pfrederi

Posi-flo pumps have a 3.5 amp internal fuse by their specs.  The head lights run through the ignition switch if you have regular sealed beam 35 watt x 2 used on 300 and 400 series...is almost 6 amps.... What ever makes you feelgood.  just saying after several years I haven't had any ignition switch problems.   \

 

Edit second pic from Facet manual

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

pump.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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mark in ny
2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Posi-flo pumps have a 3.5 amp internal fuse by their specs.  The head lights run through the ignition switch if you have regular sealed beam 35 watt x 2 used on 300 and 400 series...is almost 6 amps.... What ever makes you feelgood.  just saying after several years I haven't had any ignition switch problems.   \

 

Edit second pic from Facet manual

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

pump.JPG

Sounds like I dont need a inline fuse but I guess the pump would be trash if something did short hmm maybe run a 5 amp in line fuse. 

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squonk

I'm not going to argue the fact that these pumps draw a small amount of current.  to each his own. I have a drawer full of relays and would just rather have a continuous duty circuit like a pump motor running through some decent contacts instead of those puny switch contacts. The relay coil draws like .2 amps 

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953 nut

I would place a fuse holder as close to the source as practical to protect the wiring going to the pump. A relay nor the internal fuse will not protect you from a wire becoming shorted to ground, fuses will.

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Mike in NC

I have installed an electronic fuel pump on my Bronco 14. I wired it from the battery positive post to a toggle switch on the dash with an inline fuse. I soldered and heat shrink all connections. Here is the pump I am using, and have had no issues with it.

 

Electronic Fuel Pump

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