CDN 0 #1 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Hello everyone, I have enjoyed and been well educated over the years i have hung around here as a fly on the wall. I thank you all for the great knowledge and information here for everyone to consume. I need some more personalized help this time. Couple nights ago cleaning up from a little snow storm my tractor while blowing stopped with a clunk and blue flame out of the exhaust. its not seized as she would turn over and try to start but sounded horrible when it did run for a few seconds. She is a 199? 315-8 with a Kolher Commander Pro CH15. Rescued Kijiji find with a busted H/L shifting fork. I've started taking out the engine and have come in to warm up a bit. Even with my heater going still cold out there. Looking for some insight / advice. So far it seems as if the clucking noise is coming from the bottom end. popped the valve cover off and both valves seem to be free and are moving when rolling over on starter. Has enough compression to blow my finger out of the hole. rolls over normally and quietly on the starter. The clunking only seems to be there when running, well as brief as i can get it to now. taking a quick surf around and it seems some parts are NLA for my CH15....... am i looking at a repower? I see lots of posts on Predator swaps. I have a Princess auto similar option up here in Canada. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-hp-420cc-ohv-gas-engine-with-electric-start/A-p8449019e Thanks in advance! Jonathan Edited January 21, 2020 by CDN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,762 #2 Posted January 21, 2020 I believe that your engine has a balance shaft and that might be the problem. Continue to disassemble till you find the source of the noise. Parts shouldn't be a big problem and it is worth the effort to find them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,527 #3 Posted January 21, 2020 Hey Jonathon, Long Overdue ! Best of luck with your CH15 challenges. If it’s out, I agree to look for your source of knocking. If the connecting rod is knocking, do yourself a favor and find a machine shop to clean up your crank, then mic it to see what replacement rod is needed. It may be expensive for shop work, but it’s better than trying to clean it up yourself and the crank rod journal being out of round and trashing it again. “Ask me how I know...” Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CDN 0 #4 Posted January 21, 2020 Thanks Guys, Weather experts say temps should be just below freezing tonight so I'll be able to put some quality time in the garage tonight and finish getting it out. I'll keep updating on what i find. 40 minutes blowing on the horse now replaced with 2.5 hrs with 20" backup snowblower. LOL need to get her fixed. Enjoy your day everyone! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CDN 0 #5 Posted January 24, 2020 Hi Guys, She is all opened up and i found the culprit. Well found it long before i opened it up but needed to see if any thing else was broken. One of the screws from the choke butterfly was sucked in and mashed to death in the cylinder. Now how bad is this can i just clean her up and put it back together? or do i need a head and piston? Thanks Folks have a great evening! Jonathan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,762 #6 Posted January 24, 2020 Move the piston down and carefully check the cylinder wall for marks or deep scratches. I would pop the valves and see if they, or the seats, are damaged, If all checks out, I would carefully clean and smooth surfaces, making sure any bits of metal are removed and then put it back together. Be sure to clean the intake and exhaust for junk that might find its way back in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,358 #7 Posted February 5, 2020 Probably would be a good idea to pull the piston to make sure no crud made its way into the rings. If you decide to re-use the piston and head, you will want to make sure the burrs that were beaten into the edges are all removed. They will become hot spots if they are not removed. This is why the throttle plate screws are staked . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites