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Chris1055

Starter gen won’t turn on compression stroke

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pfrederi

I am sort of with Ed on this one...  Two S/Gs fail the same way.  Yet one worked fine on a similar engine.  No strange noises cranking with plug out and you said in the first video the slapping was the drive belt.  Think you have inadequate amperage to the S/G.  Weaker battery, too much resistance in the circuit, or bad ground....Heavy cabel direct to A terminal on the genny and a good ground jumper from engine to battery....

 

"You can trust your Mother but not your ground"

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Chris1055

Yes jumpers straight to battery and gen. Also used a good gen. So now I’m looking at valve clearance 

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Digger 66
9 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Jump a good battery  directly to the starter post.     If it spins, you have bad wiring and/or switch.    If it doesn't spin, get the start/gen rebuilt.

 

 

X-2 ^^

Or disassemble the starter and clean where the brushes contact the armature ( scrape any crud out of the contact point crevices as well ) .

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Chris1055

Here’s where I’m at now. How do I check valve clearance on this one. It’s different then the larger kohlers.

F754BE0D-0BC1-447E-9293-D3902A62B8C0.jpeg

image.jpg

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Chris1055

I can’t get a feeler gauge in on intake side. And exhaust side is .006. 

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pfrederi

That is too tight.  But it means they (the valve) actually are open more than they should be.  Surprised you are not getting a puff out the carb as it may be slightly open.

 

Looking at the picture you are not at TDC Both springs should look the same. 

 

K181 valves are NOT adjustable ...except by removal and grinding....

Edited by pfrederi
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pfrederi

Take a video of your valves while cranking plug out something doesn't look right

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pfrederi

.006 .008 Intake  .017 .019 exhaust

 

It is a Wh Spec #

Edited by pfrederi

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Chris1055

Yes at that time I didn’t have it at top dead center. I remember when I first got the tractor I cracked the plug. Started the tractor and it ran fine. Then tighten the plug once it started. I was going to do that. Maybe it just has to run for a while. 

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pfrederi
1 minute ago, Chris1055 said:

Yes at that time I didn’t have it at top dead center. I remember when I first got the tractor I cracked the plug. Started the tractor and it ran fine. Then tighten the plug once it started. I was going to do that. Maybe it just has to run for a while. 

 

 

Guess you should adjust the valves.  You have to remove them and file/grind a bit off. Believe me it doesn't take much.  The valves In KT17 are not adjustable either.  I filed mine just a bit...i thought .  you can hear them tapping....

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Chris1055

Well fellas it was a fun day getting this tractor at least to run. It’s a really nice survivor and I want to do a thread on this tractor being brought back mechanically and doing it’s yearly chores. Tonight I’m going to put a st 324 snowblower on it that I went through and some chains. Getting some snow tomorrow. After I run it for a bit I’ll recheck the valves. Seems to run alright in the mean time. I also would like your guys input on what you would like to see in my up coming threads. What do you guys think of the headlights? They are griffin 501 bigger than 401 but nice in the winter nights . Good and bright 

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953 nut

Your Spec number ha a suffix of "A" so it is not an Automatic Compression Release engine.

842009439_k181tag.jpg.30c7a5300142857b92653a5300b8918f.jpg

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Chris1055

Well I’m pretty happy with the progress today. I appreciate everybody’s help. It means a lot to me that we keep these machines going. I learn so much from everyone on here. Being 29 a lot of my generation doesn’t care or understand what was built in the USA. But there are some of us that do and will keep them going. 

05A93A47-2B91-4A16-B300-285E3D4EE200.jpeg

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lynnmor
13 hours ago, Chris1055 said:

I can’t get a feeler gauge in on intake side. And exhaust side is .006. 

You didn't say how you adjusted the valves.  Too little clearance will cause a valve to burn.

 

I rotate the engine till a valve is at its maximum opening, then give it one full turn, that will put the cam opposite the valve.  Now I check the clearance with a feeler gauge.  Then do the same thing with the other valve.  If adjustment is necessary, do the adjustment with the nuts provided, or in the case of no adjuster, I pull the valves and grind the stems the amount required on a surface grinder.  If there is too much clearance the valve needs to be ground on the angled surface.  A machine shop will be able to grind the correct amount, the parts are usually too hard to file and you want a precise surface anyway.

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Ed Kennell

So, I'm confused.   Can someone explain how a too small valve clearance that can only prevent a valve from closing can cause so much compression that a starter can not turn it over?

What am I missing?

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squonk

A Valve that was once in spec that is now too tight.. Assuming no one has touched it ever it can only mean one thing. The valve neck is stretched or the seat has worn into the head. As far as getting it to run now, maybe the timing got changed with all the fiddling and diddling.

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stevasaurus

 I believe you can take a valve and grind the seat part to gain back for a short stem.  :eusa-think:

 

Ken, you are correct...a closed valve is a closed valve is a closed valve.

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