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Searcher60

69 Electro key? Ignition switch?

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pfrederi

Raising the lever raises deck.  The hose in the front port of the valve goes to the rear of the cylinder. Rear most valve port hose goes to front end of cylinder.  Inside center port on valve goes to port next to tow valve on the pump.  Outer hose on valve goes to port on back of pump via hole in the tool box.

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Searcher60
6 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Raising the lever raises deck.  The hose in the front port of the valve goes to the rear of the cylinder. Rear most valve port hose goes to front end of cylinder.  Inside center port on valve goes to port next to tow valve on the pump.  Outer hose on valve goes to port on back of pump via hole in the tool box.

 

Thanks for your reply. One question, do you mean by front of cylinder the end that the chrome rod comes out, or does front of cylinder mean the  end of cylinder at the front part of tractor? My hoses going to the pump are backwards. 

Edited by Searcher60

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pfrederi

Front of tractor  Check the manual for a diagram

 

 

 

 

Capture.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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Searcher60

Someone has the ones going to the trans swapped. I will change them today. Should make the lever work as it should. Thanks for that, now do you have any magic for rewinding the electric PTO coil? Thanks again!

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pfrederi

Many times the coil isn't bad internally it is just a bad connection between the two wires going to it and the actual coil winding wire. I know of no way to totally rewind a coil.

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Searcher60

Do you have a 1969 Electro, 1-7245 parts manual? Or, a link to one. Why is the 69’ parts manual gone? Wires are good going into coil housing. 

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pfrederi
1 minute ago, Searcher60 said:

Do you have a 1969 Electro, 1-7245 parts manual? Or, a link to one. Why is the 69’ parts manual gone? Wires are good going into coil housing. 

 

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Searcher60

I have been to the manual section about 10 times looking for that, found 68 and 70 Electro. Been to the Toro Master Viewer looking for parts list, nothing anywhere on a 69 Electro. And you just poof, and it’s here. Thanks a bunch!

 

Now, here is another top secret question, engine pulley #8027, totally secret and discontinued with no replacement. Do you know the diameter and if there is a replacement? Thanks in advance.

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pfrederi

AtoZ tractor 

 

a 7443 from later model hydros looks just the same to me.  If you are sure you are sticking with the electric PTO 5/8" x 5.25 pulle with 1-1/8 bore would work

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Searcher60
8 hours ago, pfrederi said:

AtoZ tractor 

 

a 7443 from later model hydros looks just the same to me.  If you are sure you are sticking with the electric PTO 5/8" x 5.25 pulle with 1-1/8 bore would work

 

I noticed in that manual that apparently the block of wood under the battery box is  “factory”? I figured it was added by somebody in the last 50 years, along with the oversized box. Also, I have the electric PTO taken apart. The coil was not attached to the metal cover by any glue or fastener. I just removed the thin sheet metal cover and took it out. It would seem that the coil needs to be firmly attached for the coil to stay in place when energized? I found the break in the wire under the tape and paper. It now ohms out to about 2.9 ohms. I can repair the break easily. However, it needs to be held in place somehow. Can you comment on this? Do you know the correct resistance? Are you Lincoln? Thanks for your help.

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, Searcher60 said:

 

I noticed in that manual that apparently the block of wood under the battery box is  “factory”? I figured it was added by somebody in the last 50 years, along with the oversized box. Also, I have the electric PTO taken apart. The coil was not attached to the metal cover by any glue or fastener. I just removed the thin sheet metal cover and took it out. It would seem that the coil needs to be firmly attached for the coil to stay in place when energized? I found the break in the wire under the tape and paper. It now ohms out to about 2.9 ohms. I can repair the break easily. However, it needs to be held in place somehow. Can you comment on this? Do you know the correct resistance? Are you Lincoln? Thanks for your help.

Lincoln is A to Z.  i have no experience fixing coils.

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Searcher60
On 1/12/2020 at 11:48 AM, pfrederi said:

WH used same key switch for Kohler Breakerless Magneto and Techy solid state engines.  It is the one on the right in pictures.  there is a possibility switch was replaced maybe with a Cole hersee heavy duty one  (on the left.)  The solenoid must have been a modification by a previous owner I cannot find any Charger Electros that came with solenoids.

How many terminals on your switch???

Key is C-Hersee  83353

IMG_0238.JPG

IMG_0239.JPG

 

 

The Amazon link you give for the switch on the right does not go to that switch. Do you have the correct link or somewhere else to get one? Also, the battery terminals face to the rear of the tractor in the battery box, is the the positive or negative terminal supposed to go towards the PTO side of the tractor? Thanks very much.

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ebinmaine
34 minutes ago, Searcher60 said:

battery terminals face to the rear of the tractor in the battery box, is the the positive or negative terminal supposed to go towards the PTO side of the tractor?

I don't know which way they're SUPPOSED to go...

But I ALWAYS put the negative post near the belt guard which is towards the PTO.

 

I do that so if have to jump that tractor or need it to jumpstart another tractor I'll have less chance of touching the positive cable to something big and metal like the belt guard.

 

 

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, Searcher60 said:

 

 

The Amazon link you give for the switch on the right does not go to that switch. Do you have the correct link or somewhere else to get one? Also, the battery terminals face to the rear of the tractor in the battery box, is the the positive or negative terminal supposed to go towards the PTO side of the tractor? Thanks very much.

 

The only amazon picture i gave went to the 5 wire harness and plug.  I do not have a link for the switch on the right.  i thought you were going to use a generic magneto 5 pin switch?

 

The wood in the batter box is not original.  WHs back then came with full sized batteries (22NF) top clamp style. They were mounted with neg to the rear left side...

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Searcher60
2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

The only amazon picture i gave went to the 5 wire harness and plug.  I do not have a link for the switch on the right.  i thought you were going to use a generic magneto 5 pin switch?

 

The wood in the batter box is not original.  WHs back then came with full sized batteries (22NF) top clamp style. They were mounted with neg to the rear left side...

 

I have been having 2nd thoughts about which ignition switch to use. I have two battery boxes, the one that came on it, which is 6 inches wide needed a spacer under it as it would not fit between the oil drain pipe and steering gear unless it was raised. I have the 7781 from the parts list also. It is 5 1/2” and will fit without raising it. Using the original ignition switch simplifies the wiring. As long as the compression release is working as it should, the original should last a long time.

 

i have another dash, face place, and lots of other parts. Been going at it pretty hard. 

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pfrederi

Your battery box issue is because the oil drain on Kohler powered Chargers was out the front of the block. (Techy out the back)  Forget the parts diagram explosion look at the photos in the operator manual

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Searcher60

Any Toro dealers selling below list? I like the original ignition switch because you cannot run the starter with the PTO engaged. Best deal so far is about $76 shipped with tax for the original WH 8362 switch.  
 

Also, on the Electro12, where/what did the battery ground originally bolted?  
 

Thanks
 

 

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ebinmaine

If you have a small old school auto parts store that sells Standard motor parts, BorgWarner, or Cole-hersee I would not hesitate a heartbeat to use one of those.

 

You may be able to do an online search and find that switch at a much better price or one of the above listed aftermarket brands.

 

My 1970 Charger had the ground cable going up to the shelf that holds the gas tank. I believe that to be a reasonable place because it's closer to ground the ignition switch or whatever.

 

However...

It's tough to say you could have too many grounds and I would highly advise Running A Full Size Ground cable directly to the ENGINE.

Electricity will always find the path of least resistance and if the big cable becomes disconnected or corroded it WILL go out a small cable and melt it, even on ground. I've had it happen.

 

 

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pfrederi

:text-yeahthat:

plus one on a direct engine ground add on..

 

In most 5 pole switches i have seen the ACC terminal (power source for the Electric PTO) is not hot when it is cranking.

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