The 856 a Mechanical Restoration

[prondzy 3,867]

not much going on, i got out into the garage tonight, managed to get the hubs drilled and tapped for another set screw

[ebinmaine 62,961]

Do you put a matching flat on the axle as well?

[prondzy 3,867]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Do you put a matching flat on the axle as well?

No i didn't, not a bad idea though

[jebbear 377]

How were the cups in the ends of the hub set screws? When I took mine apart, they were all worn totally flat without any "bite". Went to Rural King, bought four new ones for a couple of bucks, problem solved.

[ebinmaine 62,961]

2 hours ago, prondzy said:

No i didn't, not a bad idea though

I've done both with and without a flat. What I noticed on the axle without the flat is that the hub was a little difficult to remove. The little swell that happens around the set screw tightening ring makes it fun to pull the hub...

 

 

[WHX?? 46,693]

Full length keys as long as you have the tranny apart? 

[MikMacMike 479]

1 hour ago, WHX24 said:

Full length keys as long as you have the tranny apart? 

I like the idea of full length keys. But I think the 2 axcels I need to repare Im just going to send to a buddy to machine a spline, making sure there is a shoulder for the hub to back on and either use a split ring on the outer or just drill and tap the center of the shaft to accept a bolt to keep the hubs on. With a good axel grease Im figureing it might keep them easier for removal. What do you think?

[ebinmaine 62,961]

Can you get the splines machined into the hub to match the axle?

 

 

[MikMacMike 479]

9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Can you get the splines machined into the hub to match the axle?

 

 

I used to watch my uncle make splines with an indexer and his I think its called a bar mill or something....Think McGiver heheheh Ya Id definately measure up for new hubs too, if one wanted to use origonal hubs then the shaft would have to be weld up to a size larger, machined down to acomidate. I figured on doing the hubs so as to completely cover the axel keeping all rust off the shaft. When I changed from the hydro to the 8 speed I noticed the shafts as you can see in prior pic is open to the eliments...Not really a fan if I can help it of having good machined surfaces rusting.....makes it alot harder removing too. A libral amount of axel grease Im hoping will stop any moisture??

[ebinmaine 62,961]

A lot of us use our machines for different things so we have different needs.

 

My concern with having a splined shaft in a round hub would be less surface area contact.

Now that might not matter to a lot of people but in my case I move heavy stuff around and pretty much nothing else so I want as much contact surface area as I can get.

If I had a way to get a full length keyway done without spending a ton of money I would definitely do it.

 

 

 

You are correct in that the grease should keep the water at Bay.

You could also get everything put back together and then throw a quick spray of matching paint at the shaft once the hub is in its final position.

Nevercease inside the hub is your friend.

[prondzy 3,867]

2 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Full length keys as long as you have the tranny apart? 

Dont think its necessary here Jim it has a leasure life of mowing no real torque like plowing 

[MikMacMike 479]

1 minute ago, prondzy said:

Dont think its necessary here Jim it has a leasure life of mowing no real torque like plowing 

Very true.....I too pull very heavy loads. "cars and trucks and sometimes on dirt" This is why the key way took a chunk right out of the axel.....cars and trucks have splines and dont get me wrong we have literally twisted axels in half drag racing or playing around in the mud and rocks 4x4ing. I guess I just tend to trust a spline. The axel on big red was literally destroid, the key took a large chunk right out of the keyway on the axel.

[MikMacMike 479]

Funny too it made a loud snap when I was pulling my 1953 Studebaker lowboy

[MikMacMike 479]

Yuppers good point Ebinmaine.....we use never seize on almost every single pipe flange at work.....the stuff is amazing.

[prondzy 3,867]

Got the transmission back on today, and filled up, sitting on all 4 again I think shes looking good. Still need to fix the the brake band, rebuild the idler pulleys and rewire but its moving along smoothly.

Edited December 7, 2019 by prondzy

[WHX?? 46,693]

Lookin good Mike ... just tied into the 867 today I got from dad this summer. Bad outboard tranny needles and wanted to get at it befor any axle damage so just a rear end mechanical and some other tidying  up. Will do a thread on it once done. 

[Dirtpoor 131]

Very nice work.👍

[prondzy 3,867]

I got a chance to work in the garage tonight, i decided it was time to rebuild the idler pullies, the old bearing were barely hanging on for life. I purchased some 6200rs bearings online a while back. I chucked the pullies in the lathe and turned off the rivet heads,  and split the pullies. I wire wheeled the rust off of them while i had them apart

 

I took time a while ago to make this pulley anvil and it works out fantastic!

There is a nut welded in the center hole at the bottom, to thread a bolt in to hold the two halves together when striking. The longer piece of square tube is to clamp it in the bench vise so it doesnt bounce across the workbench. 

The dimples hold the rivet heads then assembly of the two halves, new bearing and new rivets a little press together with the arbor press, bolt it in and strike the new rivets. 

 Here they are all done

The clutch idler installed

[Howie 882]

That worked out well!

[dclarke 4,011]

18 minutes ago, prondzy said:

I got a chance to work in the garage tonight, i decided it was time to rebuild the idler pullies, the old bearing were barely hanging on for life. I purchased some 6200rs bearings online a while back. I chucked the pullies in the lathe and turned off the rivet heads,  and split the pullies. I wire wheeled the rust off of them while i had them apart

 

I took time a while ago to make this pulley anvil and it works out fantastic!

There is a nut welded in the center hole at the bottom, to thread a bolt in to hold the two halves together when striking. The longer piece of square tube is to clamp it in the bench vise so it doesnt bounce across the workbench. 

The dimples hold the rivet heads then assembly of the two halves, new bearing and new rivets a little press together with the arbor press, bolt it in and strike the new rivets. 

 Here they are all done

The clutch idler installed

Very well done Mike, gonna have to “borrow” this idea! 

[WHX?? 46,693]

I just bolt  them together but I can see now how the "staying original" apple did not fall far from the tree! 

[jebbear 377]

Looking good on the rebuilt pulleys! I had the same issue on my 856 idlers and was going to do the same repair, but couldn't come up with an exact replacement for my original bearings which were 7277-3 NICE bearings. I looked at various bearings for replacements including 1614 -2rs bearings (3/8" x 1-1/8" x 3/8") which were slightly off, as well as the 6200-2rs that you used which measured the closest to my original 7277's, but wasn't exactly sure about the ID of 0.391 for a 3/8" bolt. In the meantime I ended up finding a NOS complete pulley for a good price so I went with that instead, but still wouldn't mind rebuilding my old ones if the bearing is a good fit. Were your 6200-2rs bearings a good fit especially in the ID for the bolt once you got them riveted back together? By the way, I love your pulley anvil! Great idea!!

[Lee1977 6,211]

2 hours ago, WHX24 said:

I just bolt  them together but I can see now how the "staying original" apple did not fall far from the tree! 

 

 I bolt them also.

Edited December 22, 2019 by Lee1977

[prondzy 3,867]

Today i cleaned up the brake band and siliconed new material to it

 

Then i welded up the fender pan bracket

Installed 4 new bumpers

 

Wetsanded the fender pan and installed the belt guard