nyquil junkie 225 #1 Posted October 10, 2019 I got this one on trade, it starts, runs ok and moves around ok. The tires seem in good shape. I blew a fair amount of mouse nests and crud out of everywhere. All the wires have been cut out and a simple harness put in there to make it run and charge. None of the gauges sensors or safety switches work. (Who really needs safety switches anyway). Even though it moves around fine, there is no hydro fluid on the stick. I have a few questions about it... so here it goes. 1) On the air cleaner, there is a narrow vac hose that is on a brass orifice thing, its about a foot long and isn't connected to anything. What is it? Its not the "horsepower" gauge... its hooked up and actually works. I have no idea what this narrow vac line is. 2) The gas tank gauge wires are gone but the sender and gauge is still there. I don't know if they work but assuming they do, can it be hooked back up on its own some how? If so... how do I do it? 3) The transmission by the stick is empty... or at least so low its not on the stick. I doubt the thing has ever had the filters changed. I read along the way somewhere the hydro trans takes 5 qt of 10w30 motor oil with a filter, but I can't find what filter # it takes for the transmission. Anyone got a part #? The model# on the tag is 4120OE02 serial #1033294 just case it isn't what I think it is. The engine's tag is worn off. Here's some pics because why not. It came with a blade and a set of WH wheel weights. Not a bad trade. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #2 Posted October 10, 2019 Also... What is this thing in the side of the engine head? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #3 Posted October 10, 2019 ?1... Dirty air filter sensor do yo need it NO but if you were mowing a dusty hay field it would let you know it make need cleaning ?3... NAPA/WIX 1410 will work try adding 1 pint (not quart) slowly of 10w30 to see if this brings the oil level up on the stick ... I have had as many as 3 of these at once now just 2 and which I bought brand new in 1998 a dealer left over anniversary edition. Good luck. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #4 Posted October 10, 2019 1 minute ago, nyquil junkie said: Also... What is this thing in the side of the engine head? Temperature sensor... You really need to pull the tins off the engine and give those cooling fins a really good scrubbing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,527 #5 Posted October 10, 2019 All of these files pertain to this model of tractor and are in no particular order. The last one is Detailed Wiring which is very helpful. Each circuit has it's own diagram. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="41-20oe02"&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or Garry 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #6 Posted October 11, 2019 Temperature sensor... You really need to pull the tins off the engine and give those cooling fins a really good scrubbing. What is the temp sensor for... was it on a warning light or something? I did take the tins off and took a wire brush to the fins. There was a ton of mouse fluff in there too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #7 Posted October 11, 2019 26 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: All of these files pertain to this model of tractor Cool... thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #8 Posted October 11, 2019 (edited) Looks like you found yourself a diamond in the rough! A 520H is really the only "newer" WH that I have a craving for. I'd love to own one. As far as your fuel sender, I've never looked at one, but how many posts does the sending unit have on it? I'd assume it has one to ground the unit and one that runs from the sender to the gauge. I think if you hook one side of the gauge to the sending unit and hook the other to keyed power, it ought to work. I could be completely off here though. The temp sensor is obviously to tell you if the engine is too hot. This is most likely to happen if the tins are full of garbage. If you've cleaned them out, you should be good. Older WH's didn't have gauges. Keep everything clean and you should be OK without it. Edited October 11, 2019 by ZXT 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,527 #9 Posted October 11, 2019 Fuel gauge sender Fuel gauge Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #10 Posted October 12, 2019 Mmmm no oil on the engine stick either. I wonder how long thats been low. Also someone put gear oil in the trans. I hope that doesn't mess it up. I have new filters and a couple gallons of 10w30 so lets cross our fingers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue Delta 35 #11 Posted October 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, nyquil junkie said: Mmmm no oil on the engine stick either. I wonder how long thats been low. Also someone put gear oil in the trans. I hope that doesn't mess it up. I have new filters and a couple gallons of 10w30 so lets cross our fingers. The transmission will not like the gear oil at all - it is a hydro system with an Eaton pump. The viscosity of gear oil will trash it, the book calls for 10w-30/40 "premium engine oil" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #12 Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) Yeah thats what I thought... Maybe somebody just topped it off once and its not pure gear oil. Once I pull the filter and drain it I'll see whats in there. It stinks like gear oil on the stick. Edited October 12, 2019 by nyquil junkie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue Delta 35 #13 Posted October 12, 2019 Flush, and maybe more flushing, you know the drill! some people shouldn't own tractors. smh 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #14 Posted October 12, 2019 What came out of the trans was.... about a gallon of brown oil that seems to be a thin mix of rank gear oil and probably motor oil. It had a pretty metallic sheen int he sunshine like metallic brown paint. So... its life might be shorter than I imagined. The engine had about a cup of thick black goo. The filter was full of black sludge. Flushes and filters a few times should clean it up well enough. I'll put a double dose of Restore in there to patch up the scratches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #15 Posted October 12, 2019 So here is the question de jour... On the tables it says the oil capacity for the 216 to 224 engine is 1.5qt for the standard base and 2.7qt for the high capacity base. How do you tell which one the engine has? I mean yeah, fill it till its good on the stick but how do you tell the difference between the 2? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,858 #16 Posted October 12, 2019 Your engine will take about 2 quarts with a new filter, pour in 1.7 quarts, then run it a bit followed by a recheck of oil level. The Onans will often read high when the dipstick is pulled, so always reinsert and check again. Restore is snake oil, it can't add metal to worn parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #17 Posted October 13, 2019 Restore is snake oil, it can't add metal to worn parts. For long term repair... true. It will boost compression on a worn piston so long as you use it every time the oil is changed. I've used it countless times to bump compression on small engines, and equipment. My old pickup had very poor compression, and Restore upped the compression and leveled it out over all 6 cyl again. It's a life extendeder and a crutch, not a cure. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #18 Posted October 14, 2019 Well all the oils are changed, new filters, all the moving bits are greased up. It starts easy, runs smooth, no smoke or scary noises. The forward/backward lever won't stay in full forward on its own, you have to hold it there or it falls back to slow...but it'll stay in multiple slow positions. Not reverse, it has to be held there too. I don't know if thats normal or wear but it works. The trans is real quiet.... nothing leaks anywhere. I'll do a little dirt pushing later and see how it handles some work. It seem to crawl up hills nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #19 Posted October 14, 2019 not sure without inspection - but possibly just need to tighten the nut on top of the trans cam plate so the motion lever will remain in the set position tighten until snug - so the lever still moves but requires some force ( easily accessed by lifting seat - 9/16" socket or wrench I believe ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #20 Posted October 14, 2019 15 minutes ago, tom2p said: not sure without inspection - but possibly just need to tighten the nut on top of the trans cam plate so the motion lever will remain in the set position tighten until snug - so the lever still moves but requires some force ( easily accessed by lifting seat - 9/16" socket or wrench I believe ) ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #21 Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) I'll have to try that.. thanks! Edit... yup that fixed it. Edited October 18, 2019 by nyquil junkie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nyquil junkie 225 #22 Posted November 19, 2019 (edited) A small update... I readjusted that link, and it works better. The lever goes farther up and it goes faster. The old battery is staying charged so the charging system is good. So far, its an impressive bull, it'll bulldoze really well....it'll go places the little 856 won't go and its a nicer ride, and faster. I'm imagining all sorts of things to abuse it doing this summer...lol I should stick a go pro on the hood and go bush dozing in the spring. Edited November 19, 2019 by nyquil junkie 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites