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[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

8 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

  Now WHERE have I heard THAT before?

Im not tellin!! 

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

40 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

  Now WHERE have I heard THAT before?

 I aint tellin!!

oops!!

Edited October 1, 2019 by The Tool Crib

[953 nut 60,381]

1 hour ago, scwheelhorse said:

Its gonna be a worker not a restoration. Will be used

I used that line for a while, but once you get up to a dozen or so it is too hard for me to work them all!        

[AMC RULES 37,211]

 Arrived late to your party...

but, I brought the  welcome wagon.  

 

 

 

[JCM 10,251]

       You have a great, simple and rugged Model there and will make a nice Mower, just have patience with it and it will reward you for many years to come.            WELCOME TO RS    

[RandyLittrell 3,906]

Pretty easy model to work on. I good place to start is to clean and put dialectric grease on the grounds, check all the connections while your under the hood.

 

Clean the tank, put new lines and filter while your doing it as well.

 

 

Randy

[Achto 29,433]

  TO 

[oliver2-44 10,782]

Regarding your fuel problem check that you  are getting  a good flow of gas to carb by pulling fuel hose off carb and cranking it over. My C81 has been sitting s few years and the fuel pump was quite plugged with ethanol  crud. 

[ZXT 2,401]

12 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Regarding your fuel problem check that you  are getting  a good flow of gas to carb by pulling fuel hose off carb and cranking it over. My C81 has been sitting s few years and the fuel pump was quite plugged with ethanol  crud. 

Do what Jim suggested for sure. In addition to the fuel pumps getting clogged, they do sometimes fail. If it isn't pumping efficiently, choking the engine might make up for the lack of fuel flow. 

 

Also, leaving the key on will often times than not fry the points rather than the coil, especially if the points were open. 

 

Have you adjusted on the China carb any? Might be worth a shot if you haven't. I have a China carb on my GT-14 and have had good results with it. A friend of mine has one on his C160 with no complaints either. If you have proper fuel flow and the carb is cleaned and adjusted properly, I don't see why it would have reason not to run.

[Tractorhead 9,212]

Welcome to RedSquare,

 

the only problemcarb i had in the past, was simply a dejusted Valve in Float chamber.

so it interrupt to early, that bowl aint filled correctly.

 

The result was same as you described, it just ran with playing on choke.

after closer inspection, i lightly readjusted the holder of Swimmer, and the bowl was filled corectly.

after that little rework also this carb works as needed.

 

if a drainscrew is on the carb Bowl, you can simply readjusting.

get an empty flat clean bowl where to drain in.

 

fill the bowl of carb with fuel between 1/2 and 3/4 of max. Possible, and drain it in a empty shot glas.

after that procedure, you got a compartment what shall reached.

 

While bowl of carb was off, disassemble the valve (took few picts before to remember how to reassemble.

clean the Valveseat wit compressed air ( not to hard) even the tip of valve carefully.

Then remount the carb in reverse order

if the splint is inserted, where swimmer hungs, rotate it in working direction without bowl to check.

 

get a new piece of fuelline connect it to Carb and blow gently in.

as long as the swimmer just hung, you must be able to blow thru without resistance.

if you now carefully move the swimmer up to carbbottom, the vale must close about 3-5 mm before it hits the carb.

(You can‘t blow thru valve)

 

At a closer look, you can see the valve moving if you move carefully the swimmer

The lever for the swimmer is on this carb types most a metallspring plate with a gap,

where the valve run into.

 

if you see the valve moving by gently move the swimmer up and down,

you can see how your adjustment works.

 

the adjustment is as simple as it coul be, just gently moving the metalspring plate a fract to simmer or opposite.

that sounds harder that it is.

After that work simply close the carb bowl and you’re done.

 

after readjusting, connect the carb to the fueltank (as suggested before by eric) 

and give him some fuel passed by fuel filter

no fuel shall come out of carb ether way, if so first step seems fine.

disconnect the carb from fueltank, open the carb bowl and drain it into you shot glas.

compare with the height, you seen before with the bowl- test.

 

if it‘s nearly the same try this carb on your Engine,

i bet it will work

 

by the Way, Wheelhorses are build to work with them, but as all Machines they need a bit of care.

But they give you the care back with reliability and continouse work.

 

IMHO, a very good choice you did, congrats.

 

[scwheelhorse 56]

19 hours ago, ZXT said:

Do what Jim suggested for sure. In addition to the fuel pumps getting clogged, they do sometimes fail. If it isn't pumping efficiently, choking the engine might make up for the lack of fuel flow. 

 

Also, leaving the key on will often times than not fry the points rather than the coil, especially if the points were open. 

 

Have you adjusted on the China carb any? Might be worth a shot if you haven't. I have a China carb on my GT-14 and have had good results with it. A friend of mine has one on his C160 with no complaints either. If you have proper fuel flow and the carb is cleaned and adjusted properly, I don't see why it would have reason not to run.

I have adjusted that china carb to death and makes no difference. The coil got fried. It was blowing oil everywhere. Just ordered a set of old stock Kohler points on Ebay last night. Will get a coil in a couple days and a condenser.Sure wish it had a Briggs engine. Would be much easier to work on and cheaper too.

[ZXT 2,401]

15 minutes ago, scwheelhorse said:

I have adjusted that china carb to death and makes no difference. The coil got fried. It was blowing oil everywhere. Just ordered a set of old stock Kohler points on Ebay last night. Will get a coil in a couple days and a condenser.Sure wish it had a Briggs engine. Would be much easier to work on and cheaper too.

Is the carb mounting gasket in good shape? If it's sucking a massive amount of air it won't run correctly either. You might try cleaning another carb and putting it on there if the fuel pump is verified working good. 

 

Can't really see how a Briggs would be easier or cheaper to work on. A point and condenser set cost all of $10, and a coil costs the same..  and they last for many, many years. When you do have to change them, you don't have to pull the shroud and flywheel off like on a Briggs. On top of that, it's not even their fault that they got fried... You can't blame the engine on a $10 china carb either.

Edited October 2, 2019 by ZXT

[scwheelhorse 56]

9 hours ago, ZXT said:

Is the carb mounting gasket in good shape? If it's sucking a massive amount of air it won't run correctly either. You might try cleaning another carb and putting it on there if the fuel pump is verified working good. 

 

Can't really see how a Briggs would be easier or cheaper to work on. A point and condenser set cost all of $10, and a coil costs the same..  and they last for many, many years. When you do have to change them, you don't have to pull the shroud and flywheel off like on a Briggs. On top of that, it's not even their fault that they got fried... You can't blame the engine on a $10 china carb either.

 

 

No those coils aren't 10.00. Cheapest new aftermarket are around 30.00. Used ones on Ebay are 30.00 plus. No way I would buy a used electrical part. Points/condenser around 20.00. Briggs parts are a dime a dozen. You can pickup free lawn mowers all day long for Briggs parts. I never have cared for a Kohler. Oddballs and expensive to keep going. Try looking for used Kohler parts locally and you wont find any around here. Briggs parts are everywhere.

[ebinmaine 73,015]

I was a Briggs guy as well until I got my first Kohler.

That was an eight horse about three years ago.

 

Points for a Kohler are only about $13 mailed right to your door.

 

The reason that you can find Briggs parts cheap all day every day is because the largest manufacturers bought them because they were the least expensive available engines. not saying they are bad. Just that if you're saving a dollar on a million units you've saved $1000000.

 

Check with the folks here on Red Square for the parts that you need and you'll find that the Kohler parts are absolutely not any more expensive than the Briggs Parts if you're comparing good quality apples to apples.

 

if you get that Kohler up and running right it will give you years and years and years of great service. OEM points on those are well known to last 30 years or more.

I've had coils that were apparently original and from the 1960s that were functioning just fine.

 

Not downplaying Briggs & Stratton by a long shot. I like them quite a lot. I just don't feel like it's a fair comparison to put a box store production engine in the face of the 60s and 70s Kohler engines which were on higher-quality machines.

 

[scwheelhorse 56]

10 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I was a Briggs guy as well until I got my first Kohler.

That was an eight horse about three years ago.

 

Points for a Kohler are only about $13 mailed right to your door.

 

The reason that you can find Briggs parts cheap all day every day is because the largest manufacturers bought them because they were the least expensive available engines. not saying they are bad. Just that if you're saving a dollar on a million units you've saved $1000000.

 

Check with the folks here on Red Square for the parts that you need and you'll find that the Kohler parts are absolutely not any more expensive than the Briggs Parts if you're comparing good quality apples to apples.

 

if you get that Kohler up and running right it will give you years and years and years of great service. OEM points on those are well known to last 30 years or more.

I've had coils that were apparently original and from the 1960s that were functioning just fine.

 

Not downplaying Briggs & Stratton by a long shot. I like them quite a lot. I just don't feel like it's a fair comparison to put a box store production engine in the face of the 60s and 70s Kohler engines which were on higher-quality machines.

 

 

 

I bought the oem points for 13.00. Ordering an aftermarket coil tonight. Leaving a switch on and killing a battery is a common mistake but leaving a key on for 15 minutes and ruining the entire electrical system seems like a very poor design.. Why cant Kohler make a simple electronic coil like Briggs and do away with that crude antique points setup. Briggs did.

[ebinmaine 73,015]

3 minutes ago, scwheelhorse said:

 

 

I bought the oem points for 13.00. Ordering an aftermarket coil tonight. Leaving a switch on and killing a battery is a common mistake but leaving a key on for 15 minutes and ruining the entire electrical system seems like a very poor design.. Why cant Kohler make a simple electronic coil like Briggs and do away with that crude antique points setup. Briggs did.

I have to concede that point to you. I have a Briggs here from 1978 that has been changed over to the module and I like the way it runs quite a lot. Starts and idles easier and I believe is at least as dependable.

 

 

[scwheelhorse 56]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I have to concede that point to you. I have a Briggs here from 1978 that has been changed over to the module and I like the way it runs quite a lot. Starts and idles easier and I believe is at least as dependable.

 

 

 

 

 

I see some kind of electronic thing for the Kohler. Think its sold by Kirk I believe.. Still uses the points so I dont know what it actually does.

 

[Pullstart 67,084]

 and congrats on your new horse!  I bought an old 502 a handful of years back and found this forum just trying to get my “new mower” running.  Well, I’m up to about 16 plus or minus a couple in the barn and don’t see an end in sight!  

 

 

[scwheelhorse 56]

13 hours ago, pullstart said:

 and congrats on your new horse!  I bought an old 502 a handful of years back and found this forum just trying to get my “new mower” running.  Well, I’m up to about 16 plus or minus a couple in the barn and don’t see an end in sight!  

WHs around here are pretty rare so I am very pleased to have saved this one. Just doing a "working resto" and putting her to work. Trying to hunt down an inexpensive coil locally but these parts stores seem to hire ex Walmart employees who dont know anything except what the computer says. Found one with good reviews on Amazon for 26 bucks speced for the Kohler so buying that one. 

13 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 67,084]

30 minutes ago, scwheelhorse said:

WHs around here are pretty rare so I am very pleased to have saved this one. Just doing a "working resto" and putting her to work. Trying to hunt down an inexpensive coil locally but these parts stores seem to hire ex Walmart employees who dont know anything except what the computer says. Found one with good reviews on Amazon for 26 bucks speced for the Kohler so buying that one. 

 

 

 

 

The deals pop up once in a while, many times people think their tractor is worth a mint too.

 

 

Here are a few of my favorite pictures of friends and family with the tractors.  There are some before and after pics of my 502 we call Putt Putt too!  Just a forewarning, they are indeed addictive!

[scwheelhorse 56]

What's the condenser part number for this k301?

Several condensers on Ebay but different part numbers. All say fit k301 Kohlers tho.