Storing an engine.

[Stormin 9,984]

  I've just finished rebuilding a Kohler 10hp off a '75 Raider 10. The rest of the Raider is just a pile of parts in a corner of the workshop. Could be some time before it gets rebuilt. If ever!

  So my question is, what suggestions do you lads have for storing the engine. I've rebuilt many a motorcycle and car engines, but they always were re-fitted and run on completion. Same with my C-125's.

  I have thought of over filling the engine to cover the top of the main bearings. Piston at bottom of stroke. Thoughts please!

[ebinmaine 72,237]

Do that, yes. Then fog it, wrap it best you can and shelf it.

[WHNJ701 4,165]

how long you plan on storing it?  

when I over winter them I run the fuel dry and tape over the muffler, ever since the noodle incident.......

[Achto 29,341]

There are a few theories on this subject. Manufacturer's ship engines with no oil or gas in them at all, not knowing when they will be installed into some thing. Definitely want to store it with the carburetor completely dry, don't want any gas gumming up in there. I like the idea of over filling the crank case so that the main bearings are covered during long term storage. I would also think that having the piston at TDC with some oil on top of it would also be a good thing. Would not a bad idea to turn the engine over a few times every 3 months or so while it is in storage, then squirt a little more oil in the cylinder afterwards. This would help prevent the cylinder from rusting.

[Stormin 9,984]

1 hour ago, jabelman said:

how long you plan on storing it?  

 

How long is a piece of string?  Haven't a clue. Don't make plans these days.

[Stormin 9,984]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

There are a few theories on this subject. Manufacturer's ship engines with no oil or gas in them at all, not knowing when they will be installed into some thing. Definitely want to store it with the carburetor completely dry, don't want any gas gumming up in there. I like the idea of over filling the crank case so that the main bearings are covered during long term storage. I would also think that having the piston at TDC with some oil on top of it would also be a good thing. Would not a bad idea to turn the engine over a few times every 3 months or so while it is in storage, then squirt a little more oil in the cylinder afterwards. This would help prevent the cylinder from rusting.

 

  Carb won't be fitted, but intake and exhaust will be plugged/sealed. Spark plug also fitted. Oil down the cylinder also and engine turned now and then with fresh oil down the plug hole. It was the bottom end I was thinking of.

[ebinmaine 72,237]

3 hours ago, jabelman said:

noodle incident

There's a couple words you don't see in the same sentence very often

[WHNJ701 4,165]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

There's a couple words you don't see in the same sentence very often

yes I took out the one panzer in the spring had it running , a few minutes later the muffler was smoking and on fire, here a mouse went into the compost pile, grabbed some pasta noodles and stuffed them in the muffler.

lesson learned.

[ebinmaine 72,237]

25 minutes ago, jabelman said:

yes I took out the one panzer in the spring had it running , a few minutes later the muffler was smoking and on fire, here a mouse went into the compost pile, grabbed some pasta noodles and stuffed them in the muffler.

lesson learned.

yeah we had a similar thing happened last year at one point with the simplicity 13 horse walk behind snowblower.

Always been a great starting engine and as usual it roared right to life after only one or two pulls. immediately followed by blowing a decent quantity of shredded leaves and other matter right out of the 1" muffler hole 

[Ed Kennell 41,713]

7 hours ago, Achto said:

There are a few theories on this subject. Manufacturer's ship engines with no oil or gas in them at all, not knowing when they will be installed into some thing. Definitely want to store it with the carburetor completely dry, don't want any gas gumming up in there. I like the idea of over filling the crank case so that the main bearings are covered during long term storage. I would also think that having the piston at TDC with some oil on top of it would also be a good thing. Would not a bad idea to turn the engine over a few times every 3 months or so while it is in storage, then squirt a little more oil in the cylinder afterwards. This would help prevent the cylinder from rusting.

This is close to my prep for winter storage of my outboard engines.  These are two strokes motors used in salt water  so all steps don't apply.

I make a concentrated mixture of fuel.

  Two cups  non ethanol gasoline

  One  half cup of Sea Foam.

 One half cup of 2 cycle oil.

I start the engines as normal, then pull the fuel line off at the tank and stick it in the container of super fuel.  The idea is to allow it to be sucked into the lines ,filters, fuel pump, carbs, and cylinders.   Then I cap the fuel line.

I then pull the plugs and spray each cylinder with fogging oil as I rotate the crank several rotations.

I drain all the fuel from the tanks and actually  burn the 50/1 mix in my 4 stroke engines.

I like to turn the engines over monthly to redistribute the oil on the cylinder walls and to reposition the fins on the rubber water pumps.

 

My engines always start easily in the spring although it takes a few minutes to burn off all the excess oil.

[RandyLittrell 3,894]

Ed's way sounds pretty good! I really like Marvel Mystery Oil as well, used in the same manner. 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[Tractorhead 9,207]

Do it similar to Ed.

 

It depends wich Engine i need to Store and how long it will be stored.

 

On short Term storage (Normal used Engines) for Winterbreak, i start the Engine and warm it completely up,

than i disconnect the Fuel line and connect it to a separate small Fueltank 300 ml and let it run with a mixture of fuel plus bit added 2 stroke oil (1:75) to conservate the Carb itself until Engine stops.(just on Carb fitted Engines)a to

When engine is stopped, i opened the Carb drain to drain all out of float chamber and let it dry.

 

Whilst Engine was still warm, i normally changed the Oil and Filter,

depending how long the oil was in and how strong the Engine was used and how the Oil looks.

 

After Engine was Cooling down, i remove spark plug and spray the cylinder with a mixture of Fog oil and 2 Stroke Oil 6:1

to keep Engine (primary the Pistonrings) prevented from Rust.

 

Sealed intake and Exhaust with selfmade Silicone Plugs, to keep moisture outside,

that also prevent hornets or Wasps find a new home in there,

and no mice can be insert any things into exhaust or in Airpurifier.

 

On Racingengines (motocycle spare) i had to store for longer times i make a schedule, when they had to be verified.

Engines will be stored dry and moisturefree in Basement with very thin Oil in a bit overfilled.

put a Sticker on them, that i remember it must be serviced before use.

 

Cranking them by hand or by Starter, depending what is available, but don‘t forget to remove the Silicone Sealplugs before

and resealed after moving. That‘s the reason i use Sevicesticker.

 

The Batteries for motorcycles will be hung on second output of Solarcharger (Starterbattery output)

on the Shed by a selfmade charging line and a simple Car Plug, each of my Vehicles will be retrofitted with.

So i‘m able to charge each battery on each vehicle i had.

 

 

 

 

[Stormin 9,984]

  Well it's now full of 20/50 oil. Took just over a gallon to cover main bearings. Intake and exhaust plugged with oily rags and tapped up and oil down the bore. Spark plug replaced. I'll make some proper plugs later.

  As I was filling the engine, after a while I noticed oil running down from where the points fit. No points fitted. I'd forgotten about the points plunger.

  That's sorted now and I can now forget about it for a while. Just give it a spin now and then with plug removed and a squirt down the plug hole.

 

  BTW. What's this Fog oil? Never heard of it here.

Edited September 28, 2019 by Stormin

[Tractorhead 9,207]

With „fog oil“ i mean a extremly Thin oil with strong creeping, what is mostly delivered in a rattlecan.

(not WD40)

 

The basic use was to let strong rusted parts become again movable (what also WD40can do) 

but in WD40 is no Oil in.

Mostly in „Fog oil“  as i meant, is a bit MoS2 in to protect surfaces and give them a better lubrication.

i guessed this is the same stuff.

 

you can get it also in bigger Can‘s and use it by an Airgun with a spraybottle below.

i mix it with 2 stroke oil in relation 6:1  for firstly quicker contamination, the 2 stroke Oil is for longlife protection.

after conservation 2 cranks, than Seal the in and outlets.

 

Because my Back want‘s be better, that i can Racing again, i sold 2 of my Racing Spare Engines, they protected as described.

Before Storing the will be completely refurbished, than protected and Sealed.

Storagetime was 2Years in hope, i can Race again sometimes, but i can‘t.

My back prohibit it.

 

The buyer want‘s to inspect with his endoscope into the Cylindre about the Shape.

There was absolute no discussion about the Price after his inspection, he meant they definitely worth the full Price no doubt about it.

They’re in perfect shape, Ready for Race.

 

In the Past i did it same way.

just oilchange, implement, short warming phasis and „Fire the Asphalt“😎

 

[Ed Kennell 41,713]

3 hours ago, Stormin said:

   What's this Fog oil? Never heard of it here.