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Parke1

Lift cable thickness?

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Parke1

Hey gang!

I'm added a sleeve hitch to my 8 horse 4 speed. I have the factory tube for the lift cable, so I want to go the hardware tomorrow and buy some cable and clamps to install the lift cable. What diameter jacketed cable should I buy? I'm thinking 1/8th inch cable, which would be just under 1/4 inch with the jacket on it.

What say you fine people?

Thanks a bunch!

-Parke1

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jusjeepn

Don't use jacketed cable, it will bind and eventually sieze. Use stainless 1/8" . This is usually rated at about 350lbs working load. You can go 5/16" if you want 450lbs working load but is overkill. I actuallu use an aicraft quality 1/8" stainless cable that has a 1500lbs breaking strength. It is rated for normal use at 700lbs. I happened onto a quanity of this cable and have not seen it since! There is also galvanized cable available in the same working strength (350lb). I have used it before on other projects and the galvanizing tends to wear off and the cable rusts. Be sure to use a thimble when making your loop to prolong the life of the cable. I also recommend making a double clevis for attachment to the rockshaft. As of yet, I haven't been able to find these locally so I just make mine with some 10guage steel or thicker.

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jerrell

:omg: parke1 , don't know the exact size but mine broke on the c175 and i was working it at the time, so went to the shop junk bin and found a cable i took off a pop-up camper, the thing is about 1/4 dia, but it worked perfect, and didn't cost anything, but the cost at a lowes, home depot is very reasonable,, as you won't need all that much, , i use mine almost daily and it is over a year old and not frayed from use. YET.

like jj mentioned, i wouldn't use the jacketed cable, it will bind at some point ,

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TT

Not that everyone has access to them, but I used an emergency brake cable (and part of the housing) from an 80's/early 90's Ford Mustang to make the rear lift cable on my tricycle Charger.

E-brake cables are teflon lined and are intended for repetitive use in harsh conditions, so using one for a lift cable shouldn't ever hurt it. :omg: (they work REAL smooth too!)

I cut one end off the cable and pulled it out of the housing. The housing was then cut to the correct length and I slipped the cable (with one factory crimped end) through an original WH clevis and back through the housing. The assembly was installed on the tractor with the OEM clevis at the rear, and the front of the cable was attached to the lift arm with a thimble, clamps, and a generic removable clevis from the local hardware store.

It would basically be the same procedure for a newer tractor but you wouldn't need the housing.

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