hp73vettes 6 #1 Posted September 5, 2019 hello all i am new to this so, here goes. i have a 77 c160 auto and have been trying to locate a deck lift cylinder. mine is the welded one so rebuilding it is a little difficult. would anybody know if other model tractors use the same cylinder or something fairly close in dimensions,and has the snap ring on it to open it up and rebuild it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,906 #2 Posted September 5, 2019 Welcome, you have found the right place! This gentleman can rebuild it and he is a member here. He has lots of other good stuff too. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hydraulics.html Randy 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,339 #3 Posted September 5, 2019 to !! Some times we like pictures it easier for us to help you with what you need Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #4 Posted September 5, 2019 thank you. ill get a tape measure and take some pics of it and post them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #5 Posted September 5, 2019 Hope these help. It's 10 7/8 closed and 15 7/8 open measured center to center of pin holes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,339 #6 Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) 2 minutes ago, hp73vettes said: Hope these help. It's 10 7/8 closed and 15 7/8 open measured center to center of pin holes If you dont have any luck l do have one pm me Edited September 5, 2019 by The Tool Crib Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #7 Posted September 5, 2019 thank you very much.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #8 Posted September 5, 2019 Figured I'd post a pic of it 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #9 Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) I had the same issue with my 75 C-160. The OEM cylinger is # 6618 (A below). Found one that is rebuildable from a 77 C-=160. and it is like 'B' in this pic...part # 105254 but it is marked discontinued. Cyl 'C" is this pic is a bit shorter and MAY not suit your need. It is from a C=141 (I think)... Cyl 'D' is definitely too short as it is frm a 520-H. Edited September 6, 2019 by daveoman1966 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #10 Posted September 6, 2019 i really appreciate that info way above and beyond what i expected. i do have a lathe and can weld. i just was worried if i made a mistake i would be up the creek without a paddle. i will do a little surfing see what i can come up now that i have more info... thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #11 Posted September 6, 2019 (edited) I also had a cyl 6618 leaking on the end seal. (1)Take the threaded clevis off. (2) Find a steel flat washer with ID to just fit over the ram with a OD near OD of cylinder housing....and an O-ring too to fit onto the ram. (3) Drill 3 holes (equally) around flat washer and mark those hole location on the end of the cylinder. (4)Drill the three marked holes about 1/2" deep...or enough to tap threads for 3 small screws. (5)Put the O-ring onto the ram, slide the washer onto the O-ring, then tighten the 3 screws.... This pinches to O-ring and stops cylinder leaks. It's been there for 7 or 8 years now and I use the tractor almost daily. Edited September 6, 2019 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #12 Posted September 6, 2019 That's a good idea. The cylinder itself has pressure. It will raise and lower the Deck. It seams to leak more when it is retracted. Seems to leak a little more with the weight of the plow I am installing I'll give it a try. It can't hurt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #13 Posted September 6, 2019 I have another question. To set up a plow. Should I use the pivot point where the plow attaches to the front of the tractor or lift it from the middle of the plow with the mower lift arm. I only tried to set the plow up using the pivot point in front . It hooks up in the rear and where the mule drive was. But not sure which method to use for lifting it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #14 Posted September 6, 2019 Once hooked to the rear Tach-o-Matic hitch, the front MULE drive removed, the lift point of the dozser blade is like this...usually with a chain...but a lift bar can also be used as an alternative. A long flat bar can also be used which will allow DOWN pressure... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #15 Posted September 6, 2019 thanks again. the plow set up that i purchased had a link and pivot point that went where the mule drive was mounted. it must of been for a manual lift. i was trying to set up a rod that went to the deck lift arm. it worked but didnt have much lift height. i see by your pic it can be lifted from the middle. ill have to weld up a bracket at mid point of plow frame like the one in the pic you posted. and i will try the washer and oring idea while i search for a lift cylinder thats rebuildable.... thanks again for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #16 Posted September 6, 2019 4 hours ago, hp73vettes said: Figured I'd post a pic of it Now that is one beautiful tractor! Did you restore it yourself or did you buy it that way? If the mechanical parts of the tractor are in as good of shape as the rest of the tractor looks, then you have a tractor that will last you a lifetime. Needless to say, I'm a bit jealous! What's the lever that's sticking up in front of the seat? My c160 doesn't have it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #17 Posted September 6, 2019 thank you for the kind words. i did the restore myself . the lever in front of the seat is to release the seat pan to gain access to hydro fill tube / box under seat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #18 Posted September 6, 2019 (edited) Not to burst any bubble or to be picayune, but the Motion Control Lever shown on this tractor is a trademark of the 1973 'No-Name' year. The Motion Lever is between your knees which is a little awkward. I know that because I owned a 1973 12hp Automatic of exactly same setup...it was model 1-0465. Given that distinction, your tractor decals would be simply "16hp Automatic" (instead of '"C-160") and the model number would be 1-0440. In 1974 the official C-160 was born and the Motion Lever was changed to a tall vertical arm on the Right side...approx the height of the steering wheel...making it much easier to control fwd/rev directions and speed. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Edited September 6, 2019 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #19 Posted September 6, 2019 thats good info to know. i only replaced what was previously on the machine. no bubbles popped here... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,841 #20 Posted September 6, 2019 15 minutes ago, hp73vettes said: thats good info to know. i only replaced what was previously on the machine. no bubbles popped here... Regardless....thats a VERY nice machine. Tractors like that cause addictions, ya know..... lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #21 Posted September 6, 2019 yes i do. it was my dad that started it with a 67ish lawn ranger which i still have today but it had a hard life. maybe some day ill try and bring her back.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hp73vettes 6 #22 Posted September 7, 2019 thanks again to daveoman1966..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
