Need Newbie Help

[Prater 76]

After seeing all the restoration going on here I have been looking for a 60's model WH locally to restore. I have a line on a 1964 model WH that has an 8HP Kohler engine and dual rear wheels. The owner said it needed a fuel pump, seat, and a steering wheel. He used it with a front blade to maintain his property. I have not seen it yet or know what model it actually is but plan to take a drive Friday to check it out.

Just curious what it may take to find the seat and steering wheel and howmuch $$ they may be. Also what is a good range to offer. if its in decent shape with a WH blade? Maybe a range of reasonable offers? I appreciate the help.

Thanks again

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

IF the tractor you are talking about is original, it's an 854. It's the only 8hp model that was offered in 1964. As far as your "how much will parts cost" queries (and don't take offense to this) -- if you have to ask, you can't afford to restore it.

Given your geographic location and the fact that they don't make 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 year old Wheel Horse tractors anymore, you should probably try very hard to get the tractor. (funds permitting, of course)

Finding individual parts is sometimes easier than finding a whole tractor - depending on what you might be seeking. Once you get the tractor, it will give you the incentive to find the parts you need. You've already found the best place online to ask about parts, so that's one less hassle you have to be concerned with.

As for the value of the tractor..... in reality it's not worth much - unless it's in virgin original condition. If it's in running/driving condition it's worth more than it would be if it wasn't. If it has decent paint and tires it's worth more than if it doesn't. (see the pattern? )

There are far too many variables involved to enable an accurate guesstimate. My advice would be to decide how much you are willing (and/or able) to spend and compare it to what the seller is asking. Point out as many flaws, problems, and issues as you can find with the tractor and use them as bargaining leverage. NO ONE should ever strike a deal without trying to "work" the seller for a lower price - unless you know that it's already a "steal of a deal".

If it helps (and it is an 854), I currently own somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 similar tractors and have paid anywhere from free to $325 each - depending on condition, model, and what was included in the "package". That should give you a good idea, but the rest is up to you. :omg:

[Prater 76]

Thanks Terry,

I was asking about the price of the parts so I can get an idea of how much to bargain with. I know the cost of the fuel pump, but not sure on what the ball park is for parts. After restoring cars and boats, I need a cheaper alternative. I know its not cheap per say, but no where near the cost of 600 to 1000HP engines for my boat...

I have a good idea where to start now...

[gwgdog66 23]

Prater,

It looks like not very many parts are still available for that tractor.

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?...es&xCaller=Toro

type in 1964 (line 3) for the year and 854 (line 4) and hit submit.

I know a guy in Nacoma Park that used to work at a Wheel Horse dealership back in the 70's that may know where to find some used parts for it. There aren't many Wheel Horse's around our area.

Gary

[HorseFixer 2,013]

Stephen a steering Wheel will cost about 20.00 to 40.00 bucks a square pan seat about the same but have seen them go for around 75.00 make sure you get close ups for the seats and ask direct questions! Many seats are cracked and cobbled up. It all depends on the Tractor but if it is in good shape with the parts that are missing I would say dont spend much over $250.00 or cheaper if possible. But that all depends what yer willing to pay. Since your farther out west you may need to spend more.

You can plan on a complete restore costing between how good a job you do or want between $800.00 to $1200.00 will you ever get all that money back if you sell it? Probably not but thats all part of it! After all think of it as a stimulus and keeping the economy going! Good Luck!

[Prater 76]

Thanks Gary,

I am in Blanchard, what part of the state are you in?

[Prater 76]

Thanks Duke. I kind of have $250 in mind to start, but after looking at it I will decide then. Did they have a front blade from WH back then?

[gwgdog66 23]

Thanks Gary,

I am in Blanchard, what part of the state are you in?

Oklahoma City

[Brian1045 28]

I'm pretty sure all these attachments were made to fit your tractor, snow blade included.

Attached Image

[bowtieguy 334]

Hey Steve in OK...offer him one big bill (100 bucks) and start from there....you have a dealer in Joplin, MO that has some NOS part....but call me if you need to as we might be able to help ya out ..OK city not that far away but do have some stuff that you might want if you get the tractor....verify the model first and call me 816-806-9774 ...might even have a "deal" for ya... :omg:

[Prater 76]

Thanks Frank

[gwgdog66 23]

Hey Steve in OK...offer him one big bill (100 bucks) and start from there....you have a dealer in Joplin, MO that has some NOS part....but call me if you need to as we might be able to help ya out ..OK city not that far away but do have some stuff that you might want if you get the tractor....verify the model first and call me 816-806-9774 ...might even have a "deal" for ya...

Frank,

PM or e-mail me. , Sorry Steven. I'm looking for some chrome hub caps for a 75 C-160.

Gary

[Prater 76]

Here is the 854 I picked up

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=9337

[jerrell 1]

:drool: good going steven, you and i are in similar circumstances, i live in arkansas, and not a lot of wh around here , have to have most parts sent in, in saying that i just picked up a 603 it looks similar to your tractor, no engine, good going and you will enjoy working on these tractors, Oh yeah, a suggestion if you don't already know the rear outside dual is on backward, and you will get better traction with the threads going the same way, also they will sling the mud or dirt out of the thread instead of mudding over and becoming slick.. i am also looking for a seat and steering wheel, and a new engine,

[Prater 76]

I almost bid on that tractor, I am headed to Nashville for a conference on Memorial weekend and sent them a question on pickup times. I then saw your post about it and decided not to bid. Especially since they needed it out sooner than I would be coming through...

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

the rear outside dual is on backward, and you will get better traction with the threads going the same way, also they will sling the mud or dirt out of the thread instead

Running duals in opposite directions provides equal traction in forward and reverse. Because duals are intended mainly for stability & floatation and drastically reduce the ground pressure psi, you aren't going to have as much traction anyhow. (when you're talking a 500lb garden tractor.) Adding about 300lbs of weight on the rear might get it back in line with the original ground psi though.

I also don't foresee see a 23" tall tire on a vehicle traveling at 5mph being very capable of throwing anything out from between the tread - unless you Armor All the heck out of them before you start. (which I may have to try for the dog s__t piles in my yard )

[Drydock 3]

Sorta OT

Looked out the window the other day, and saw my kid (Out cutting grass on the L-156 Lawn Ranger) go freewheeling down the hill/street in front of my house. (Town of 250 way out in the MO Ozarks btw, not worried about traffic)

I went out to yell at him, and he replies "But Dad, its the only way to go fast enough to sling the dog poop out of the turf treads . . ." :omg:

[jerrell 1]

:omg: Hey tt haven't seen to many tractors plowing in reverse :ROTF:i should have said squeeze the dirt or mud out, it is my understanding that the ag tires are made so the lugs are overlapped in the center for a cleansing action, so when the tire hits the ground the pressure of the entering dirt forces the dirt or mud in the grove between the lugs to sorta squirt out the rounded side of the tire causing the lug to dig deeper and provide traction, running an ag tire in reverse causes the space between the lugs to pack itself , dirt or mud entering and being forced together and slick over because it cannot clean itself . the design of the ag tire was made especially for this cleansing action ,i believe the knobbied tires would slick over very easy as the thread depth is so small and has no way to clean the mud, dirt out as the lugged tire has ,,causing the tire to spin very easy. the pressure exerted on a small area as the lug compared to the pressure exerted on so many small areas of the turf tire would be greater and the ag lug would dig in deeper resulting in more traction,

prater i found out that the other bidder on the tractor was a friend of the seller causing the bidding to go up. i bought it for 102.00 more than i intended but i wanted one of those little tractors..

and drydock, the only way to clean that stuff out is a water hose , that stuff is like super glue :drool:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

You might not see too many tractors plowing in reverse, but what about the loader tractors backing away from a pile, etc.? You also need to remember that we're talking about garden tractors here - not 5000 to 20,000 pound farm tractors. Running duals on the rear of a garden tractor that's pulling a tiny single-bottom plow doesn't make much sense anyhow. The furrow is only wide enough for one tire, so the outside tire is actually running up on the previously turned soil. Without the "automatic" guidance of both tires being in the furrow, you almost have to fight to keep the tractor straight. (because the twist of the moldboard also tries to pull the tractor sideways towards unworked ground) I'm sure you're aware of the adjustable track width option you have with most farm tractors, right? A skinny little garden tractor with a single-bottom plow doesn't need that capability if the plow is adjusted to trail correctly, but keeping the tires in the furrow is very important regardless.

The original design of a bar tread tire was based on a simple tool..... a wedge. The harder you force a wedge into something, the tighter it gets. If you look waaaaaaay back the the 20's / 30's when the rubber tire tractor started to become popular you'll notice the bars were set at at least 45

[stevasaurus 23,274]

what's wrong with the steering wheel? Just put a suicide knob on it...or one on each spoke. Seriously...I may have a tractor seat that may work for you...I say may work because it is the color blue...not sure where I got it or if it will fit, or even if I can find it. I'll look. PM me if interested. :drool:

[jerrell 1]

:omg: apparently every farmer in the country dosn't know how to mount the tires on his tractors, big or little tractors , have you ever seen a tractor in the fields or at dealership with duals mounted two ways, ,,don't think so..

as far as the smilies go, , you know that is a smart ass remark and you being a supposed to be moderator is uncalled for ,,,this supposed to be a forum to discuss not to cut down, :drool:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

apparently every farmer in the country dosn't know how to mount the tires on his tractors, big or little tractors

as far as the smilies go, , you know that is a smart ass remark and you being a supposed to be moderator is uncalled for

I have yet to see a farmer use a garden tractor to plow his fields.

Like I said (make sure you read this) I am talking about a GARDEN TRACTOR.

That is what an 854 Wheel Horse is, correct?

We will discuss the rest of your issue off the forum.