Jump to content
ebinmaine

The "Colossus" project

Recommended Posts

Oldskool

WELL... if it's the BEES KNEES how could I NOT buy one. Nuff said 😄

  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

WELL... if it's the BEES KNEES how could I NOT buy one. Nuff said 😄

Dude. Mister. Guy. 

We all need a few of these. Wow. 

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

Without a doubt the metal fab guy's best friend. No more questioning whether or not you should cut something because it's so simple with that tool.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Without a doubt the metal fab guy's best friend. No more questioning whether or not you should cut something because it's so simple with that tool.

I've ordered extra different tooth count blades for future usage. 

I may need to go around cutting things for no reason. 

  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
OldWorkHorse
16 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm hoping I can fix that. 

Need a corded dewalt drill!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 minute ago, OldWorkHorse said:

Need a corded dewalt drill!

Just bought a Ridgid rechargeable. Bet that'll work... 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
OldWorkHorse
Just now, ebinmaine said:

Just bought a Ridgid rechargeable. Bet that'll work... 

Used 1 today worked awesome! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Oldskool
46 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I may need to go around cutting things for no reason. 

Someone should warn the neighborhood 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8ntruck
2 hours ago, Gregor said:

Someone stole your tie rod hole! :scared-eek:

How do you steal a hole?  And how do you know when you have?

Nope, it is there. Can't you see it looped around the cutter pin on the spindle?

 

I'll bet that Eric put it there so he would not lose it before deciding where he wanted to put it!

  • Like 1
  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
5 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Nope, it is there. Can't you see it looped around the cutter pin on the spindle?

 

I'll bet that Eric put it there so he would not lose it before deciding where he wanted to put it!

Very good eye. Size is about right. 

I can't honestly say I put that particular hole there on purpose. It came with the cotter pin. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Drew up a quick schematic for the engine electric system as it was when I got it. 

IMG_20210422_192611597.jpg.820f2028559f92f875b87033060388e6.jpg

 

Snipped the wires off and removed some more parts from the engine. 

 

 

 

IMG_20210422_194000705.jpg

IMG_20210422_193935070.jpg

IMG_20210422_193945957.jpg

  • Like 5
  • Excellent 3
  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I see your voltage regulator is feeding the + side of the ignition switch.  I’ve been told (though I wired it like yours) that a VR might possibly could have a parasitic draw if left constant to the battery.  If you’re harness building, it wouldn’t hurt to run it to the flipped side of the switch...

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
56 minutes ago, pullstart said:

I see your voltage regulator is feeding the + side of the ignition switch.  I’ve been told (though I wired it like yours) that a VR might possibly could have a parasitic draw if left constant to the battery.  If you’re harness building, it wouldn’t hurt to run it to the flipped side of the switch...

That's a valid point and thank you for the reminder.

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
19richie66

1090CB64-056A-4BE5-936B-8D04FC6E4561.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Haha 3
  • Heart 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
7 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

1090CB64-056A-4BE5-936B-8D04FC6E4561.jpeg

Sloths are adorable 🦥🦥

 

:ROTF:

  • Haha 2
  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stormin

Just shown SWMBO that sloth photo. Now she wants one. :rolleyes: 

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie
6 minutes ago, Stormin said:

Just shown SWMBO that sloth photo. Now she wants one. :rolleyes: 

It is legal to keep sloths as pets in some rare cases...but, the process for adopting them is so sloooooow that nobody tries ...:lol:

  • Haha 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
18 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

It is legal to keep sloths as pets in some rare cases...but, the process for adopting them is so sloooooow that nobody tries ...:lol:

In case you hadn't already gathered by the speed of this particular project I'd be into that....

  • Like 2
  • Haha 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

In case you hadn't already gathered by the speed of this particular project I'd be into that....

I hear the odds are trending for Hally's Comet to be victorious in this race! 

  • Haha 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I wrote out the idea for supporting the belt in another thread and want to document it here:

 

"I wanted to make something that would not inhibit the air flow to the rear cylinder. The K582 is 2 sizes larger than a 17/18 block and really takes up a lot of space. The rear cylinder would be well behind a solid guard. 

 

The idea behind the C channel vs angle metal is mostly for the different look. Also to keep from accidentally dropping something like a shoelace into what would be an exposed moving belt. 

 

My build has the engine center sitting a few inches towards the driver simply because of the large engine's physical size. 

 

However, there's a 7" spacer between the frame and transmission. 

 

The upper portion of the belt needs to be supported from the engine to idler pulley like any other. That'll actually be a shorter run and the idler moves in an arc. My thought process at this point is to run a straight piece of channel from the top of the engine pulley to the top of the transmission pulley. I'll "flare down" the back to account for that arc movement. 

 

The lower part on the other hand will be a little longer and needs a straight steady position hold."

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

You folks will be happy to know we've been getting ready to start back in on this Ole build again soon. 

Organizing the parts pile and checking to see what I have/need. 

 

It's "only"  been a little over 2 years. 

:lol:

  • Like 4
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SylvanLakeWH

:sleeping-sleep:
 

Huh…?

 

What???

 

:sleeping-sleep:
 

 

:occasion-clown:

Edited by SylvanLakeWH
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

..... And the giant is awakened from his slumber...

  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

Hey Eric

It's been a while since reading this thread and didn't go back through it all but curious what you're doing for a gas tank. Just had a K532 on the Roof 60 tractor running again this weekend and that thing can suck all the gas outta a small 3/4 gallon tank in no time! That's mostly idling to mid rpm range so full speed should really evaporate some fuel. Now I see why they put a 10 ish gallon gas tank on that thing.

(Engine has been changed from this pic)

IMG_0805.JPG.6a482e17b221f9ebd9ad17f60ccb04d8.JPG

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
20 minutes ago, wallfish said:

doing for a gas tank. Just had a K532 on the Roof 60 tractor running again this weekend and that thing can suck all the gas outta a small 3/4 gallon tank in no time!

Oh man I know!

When I first got this engine running I had about 10 oz of fuel in a peanut butter jar just sitting beside it and it was gone in less than 10 minutes at medium RPM. 

 

Somewhere back in this thread I have a picture of the gas tank I would like to use but I'm not sure it's going to be the best decision. It's a 20s or 30s vintage air tank with riveted seams and they're welded with the generation previous to arc welding.

 

I was reading somewhere that those type of seams have been known to leak gasoline because of its thin viscosity and penetrating oil like quality.

Size wise it would have been okay. 3.5 gallons roughly. I have a habit from a long time past of checking the fuel nearly every time I use the machine.

 

Not sure now. Certainly open to suggestions.

 

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...