Dubstar76 14 #26 Posted August 29, 2019 Ok guys, here is a stupid question warning.... Due to the age of the engine, do they run on Unleaded or Leaded Petrol? I know that 50’s, 60’s and 70’s Mini’s ran on Leaded and you had to get the valve guides changed to hardened ones to run the A series on Unleaded petrol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,709 #27 Posted August 29, 2019 Just now, Dubstar76 said: Ok guys, here is a stupid question warning.... Due to the age of the engine, do they run on Unleaded or Leaded Petrol? I know that 50’s, 60’s and 70’s Mini’s ran on Leaded and you had to get the valve guides changed to hardened ones to run the A series on Unleaded petrol. first let's just remind everybody that there's no such thing as a stupid question... Except for the one you failed to ask. I don't know about the very very early Kohler engines in the 60s but the ones we run in the late 60s and 70s seem to do just fine on unleaded gas. your biggest issue is to make sure you are NOT PUTTING ETHANOL in your tractor. Pure gas is the best way to go. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #28 Posted August 30, 2019 5 hours ago, Dubstar76 said: Thanks guys, 953 nut - I’m sure I have a couple of spare coils in my garage from my classic mini’s, I was also thinking of changing the HT lead to the spark plug, think I remember something about resistance and ohms, where a bad HT lead can cause the coil to overheat due to a low resistance or maybe the other way round 🤷♂️ Oliver2-44 - Please can you remind me on how to do a cylinder leakage test or what is a Cylinder leakage tester. I vaguely remember doing cylinder leak test with the cylinder head off the engine, but that was when I was young and could still remember what I had done the day before...😂 Do Mini's run an internal resistor coil, or do they have a ballast resistor or some sort of resistor wire? If its an internal resistor coil you're good to put it on. The coil that is currently on it should not get that hot in that short period of time. A coil built for an external resistor will get extremely hot quickly if it gets a full 12v to it. This could very likely contribute to your weak spark. I suppose if you put a Mini coil on there and it fries it, you might could mend it with this product. Lol! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,709 #29 Posted August 30, 2019 5 hours ago, ZXT said: suppose if you put a Mini coil on there and it fries it, you might could mend it with this product. Lol! That's just funny right there. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,985 #30 Posted August 30, 2019 (edited) Bit late I know, but from up 'ere in't North. If your playing about with mini's, of which I've had several off in the distant past, you shouldn't have any problem with working on your horse. Plenty of good advice has already been given, so I won't elaborate. Just to say, I run my tractors on unleaded and have not experienced any problems. Also check the oil in the trans. The rubber boot on the gear lever, if perished, torn or split, can let water in there. If the oils milky, put some diesel in and when you get the tractor running, run round for a few minutes then drain off. That should clean things out. I use EP90 in my trans, just cos' I have plenty left over from my Land Rover days. I think you mention the brake lever or pedal being stuck. Again an easy fix. Pedal will just slide off. Handbrake lever will just need some penetrating oil to free it. The brake is on the left side of the trans and is just a lined band round a flat wheel. Edited August 30, 2019 by Stormin 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dubstar76 14 #31 Posted September 1, 2019 Hi All, So a little update, fuel line turned up from Amazon, I think it was for a toy tractor....it had the outer diameter of a drinking straw!! So ordered some from a mini specialist because it’s the same size, just waiting for that to turn up. Managed to free the brake pedal up, so it now moves, but when depressed it stays depressed and you have to awkwardly hook your foot behind it to take the brake off, so I guess a little bit of linkage lube should sort it 🤞🏻 Yeah gearstick gater has perished so will give Stormin’s diesel trick ago, when running. Managed to speak to previous owner again, last year they fully serviced it and changed most engine parts, points, spark plug, carb, coil and new battery. They did this after it stopped running, they never managed to get it running again, hence they bought a new modern Toro mower. So that’s a little concerning, that they had managed to maintain and service it for almost 45 years and couldnt get it started 🤦🏻♂️😂 So I will hopefully get it running to get a final grass cut in and see how it all works, then I think a winter resto job is on the cards, ready for spring 😀 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #32 Posted September 1, 2019 Nice tractor! Glad the points are new because they have top handle the extra current from that coil. Swap the coil and check the points - may need a slight filing. With that new plug and 12V at the coil, it should fire. That flowing carb may have been the cause of the sooty plug. It sound like you're ready to hear it run to me! Good luck from across the pond. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,985 #33 Posted September 1, 2019 Does it turn over on the key? If not, maybe a bad earth or the solenoid's kaput. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites