littleredrider 409 #1 Posted August 5, 2019 I swapped a 16 horse onto my 606. I had a 10 horse on it and running, Since I didn't know the condition of the 16 horses electrical, and the 10 horse ran great, I took all but the magneto wires and swapped them on the 16. Now I have no spark. I even took the spark plug and points, tho the 10 horse looked worse than the 16s. So what am I missing here? I have 12 volts to the coil... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,272 #2 Posted August 6, 2019 Remove the wire from the small starter solenoid terminal. Check voltage to the coil (+) in both the RUN and START key positions. Should be 12 volts. Now remove the spark plug so the engine is easier to turn over by hand. Check the voltage at the coil (-) terminal and turn the engine over 2 complete revolutions watching the voltage. When the points are open you should have 12 volts. When the points are closed you should have 0 volts. If you don't have 0 volts the points are not making electrical contact when closed. File and clean the contacts. If you have a steady 0 volts remove the condenser in case it is shorted. Also make sure the ignition wire is not shorted to the engine in the point area. The voltage ON and OFF should occur once every two rotations of the crankshaft. That is what forces the coil to fire the plug. Garry 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #3 Posted August 6, 2019 Now that you mention points gap, it does look like more gap than what the 10 horse was. If it don’t downpour when get outta work I’ll check it. Bout only thing could be, since everything came off the 10 horse and ran great. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,191 #4 Posted August 6, 2019 Your ignition points set your ignition timing so it is important that they be set correctly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,735 #5 Posted August 6, 2019 What ignition switch are you using? The tractor originally had a mag and you switched to battery ignition. Do you have 12 volts at the coil when in the on position and while cranking? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #6 Posted August 6, 2019 New key switch wired for a Kohler. Everything worked on the k241, just swapped it all to the k341. I have 12 volts with key and crank for the coil. Just find it odd that worked great on one but not the other....hoping nothing wrong with the k341. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,191 #7 Posted August 6, 2019 So you checked the ignition points setting and cleaned the points and did the voltmeter checks as suggested by Gary? What did you find? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #8 Posted August 6, 2019 Not yet no. Hoping tonite after work if it don’t downpour.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 759 #9 Posted August 9, 2019 On 8/6/2019 at 12:09 PM, littleredrider said: Not yet no. Hoping tonite after work if it don’t downpour.... You’re just north of me. Nasty storms tonight. I just fought with my old Kohler and spark issues. I had left the key on and burnt my new points. I used the meter method and found they weren’t grounding. A quick cleanup and I’m back in business. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
littleredrider 409 #10 Posted August 9, 2019 Yeah it poured last couple days. Supposed to be nice for next couple days, after mowing the hay field gonna go after it again.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
