adsm08 3,261 #1 Posted July 3, 2019 So the other day I went to mow and I noticed that I didn't get my puffs of blue smoke while the engine was warming up, so I checked the oil and it was off the dipstick. Added about 1/2 a qt of straight 30 weight small engine formula and went to mow, but not she runs odd. Intermittent loss of power/stumble, some popping like a little bit of back fire, but not seeing anything out the exhaust. My throttle lock doesn't work, and the engine will throttle back on its own as I mow, the stumble seems to happen when the throttle gets itself down. Pulling it out helps, but this is new, and the throttle working in has been going on since I bought it. I'm pretty novice with carbs and points so I'm not sure where to start looking. 855 with a K181, running E0 90 octane. Coil was replaced a week before this started. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #2 Posted July 3, 2019 Because you said that the problem started after the coil was replaced, I would check to be sure that you are using the correct coil. Kohler coils have an internal resistor. Assuming you are using the right coil, it sounds like a good carb cleaning and adjustment is in order. The locking throttle is always a problem with my 8 hp engines. New throttle cables are not expensive, but they are just not as good as the old, original ones. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 66,815 #3 Posted July 3, 2019 Clothespins on the throttle cable help hold it where it needs to be... I have a couple tractors with pins hanging. A good cable adjustment will net you high and low speeds, with 1 or 2 pins 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,773 #4 Posted July 3, 2019 Check them points & condenser, clean & gap @ .020. Sometimes need to go .001 + or - to get the sweet spot. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,261 #5 Posted July 3, 2019 Ok, so tomorrow I will check points. I'm pretty sure the coil is correct enough. It crosses to an Accel coil that I saw on at least one other Horse at the show. If the temp has gone up since the last time I fiddled with the carb do I need to richen or lean the mix? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,709 #6 Posted July 3, 2019 5 minutes ago, adsm08 said: Ok, so tomorrow I will check points. I'm pretty sure the coil is correct enough. It crosses to an Accel coil that I saw on at least one other Horse at the show. If the temp has gone up since the last time I fiddled with the carb do I need to richen or lean the mix? I don't find that extreme heat needs to have an adjustment but sometimes the very very cold winter does. Mind you, I don't get the heat that some of you others do. Above 90 is rare here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,261 #7 Posted July 24, 2019 So tonight it was bad. It would start hard (although I think my fuel pump may be on the way out now too) more smoke, more flames, more erratic timing. I was fighting with it right as my neighbor who does mower service got home, so I went and asked him for help. He came over, fussed with a few things, then asked if I had any spare condensers laying around. I yanked the one out of my truck, we rigged it in place of the Kholer one, and BAM, she runs nice. Not perfect, but much nicer, and as I said, I suspect the fuel pump is getting weak. It won't start with the tank low, almost as if it needs the added pressure of more fuel pushing down from the tank to get it pumped up to the carb. Also, I accidentally bridged the center and RH terminals of the voltage regulator while the key was off, and it just sat there cranking away, and we couldn't for the life of us figure out how to stop it. Turning the key to crank and then off was the answer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,372 #8 Posted July 29, 2019 I had a case where the head was dirty and carbon interfered with the valves seating 100%. It was a sometimes thing. I did notice that there was white oily smoke coming out of the air cleaner housing when it lost power. I did a decarbon, used valve compound, and set the valve clearance and it helped.None of this would hurt a thing, so maybe try it if your problems persist. Also, I found out later that the piston ring gap must have been too wide when the piston melted at the ring grooves. That is another topic so I will start my own thread with piccs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,279 #9 Posted July 29, 2019 that oil puffing can be helped out with RISLONE OIL TREATMENT, sounds like a possible engine gunk build up in the ring area. that rislone will really help cut the carbon and grunge from an engine, also i did a number of oil changes to flush out the grunge. recently did a couple of engines that were having " milky oil build up in the dip stick tube ", the wrong oil was being used many of the latest oils are NOT NEEDED in these older design flat tappet engines. and the inability of it to heat up and convert is shown in the milky deposits. rotella 30 wt diesel oil is the answer, after numerous oil changes , the engines are clean ,and the oil stays clean ,other than getting dirty, like it is saposed to . i also regularly, like every fill up use STABIL IN THE GAS, that has really cleaned up a fuel issue i had . and its much cheaper than the high priced fuel out there, just my own experience, pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,261 #10 Posted July 29, 2019 9 hours ago, peter lena said: that oil puffing can be helped out with RISLONE OIL TREATMENT, sounds like a possible engine gunk build up in the ring area. that rislone will really help cut the carbon and grunge from an engine, also i did a number of oil changes to flush out the grunge. recently did a couple of engines that were having " milky oil build up in the dip stick tube ", the wrong oil was being used many of the latest oils are NOT NEEDED in these older design flat tappet engines. and the inability of it to heat up and convert is shown in the milky deposits. rotella 30 wt diesel oil is the answer, after numerous oil changes , the engines are clean ,and the oil stays clean ,other than getting dirty, like it is saposed to . i also regularly, like every fill up use STABIL IN THE GAS, that has really cleaned up a fuel issue i had . and its much cheaper than the high priced fuel out there, just my own experience, pete Thanks. The poor running issue ultimately turned out the be the condenser was on it's way out, and was working intermittently. The first time I changed the oil I used some JD 10W-30 that I had left over. Been using TSC small engine formula 30W, still burning it, but slower. I will try the Rotella at my next OIC, which is coming up soon. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,279 #11 Posted July 30, 2019 Walmart has the 5 qt rotella for 14 $ , glad you found the condenser issue, went over all my electrics with better grounding , new fittings and dielectric grease at every point, zero issues, stay on it , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites