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Firebug

Clutch chatter

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Firebug

I have a 314-8 that the clutch return shock is worn out. So instead of spending the $100 for the shock I put the spring on the end of the clutch rod. The problem now is in neutral the clutch pedal flops around and it sounds terrible. Any ideas on how to remedy this? 

81115053-5158-4756-9ACF-E00D9B6A2B56.jpeg

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JAinVA

Check the drive pullies for any flaws.The idler pulley could have a bad bearing.

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Firebug

It seems like the idler pulley is tight but the mount bracket it is on seems to move a lot as the belt runs across it

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JAinVA

I still would check the drive pullies for flaws.I have 2 WH tractors with the same setup as yours.None have the shock and none vibrates like what you have.You might need to check the belt for chunks missing.

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Racinbob

I'm not sure what you mean by 'flops around' but if you mean it pulses try replacing the drive belt. 10 years go when I first got my 2005 Classic I removed the damper and just went with the spring only. Then the pedal then pulsed pretty bad. Even though the belt looked fine I replaced it. Smooth as silk after that. :)

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Firebug

I just looked at my 310, same setup. When I put pressure on the belt to move the idler pulley it is more firm than the 310, almost like there isn’t enough pressure on the return spring. I’m pretty sure it is a newer belt but I’ll start by changing that

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roadapples

Shorter spring???

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Lee1977

The hole in the frame where the Idler bracket goes thru is worn. I fix mine by drilling them out to 5/8" and installing oilite 5/8" O. D bushings with 1/2" I. D. 

 

"SAM-0315-1.jpg

SAM-0313-1.jpg

SAM-0311.jpg

I had to drive the bushing in place. The last picture I was cleaning the shaft and checking the bushings to see that the shaft would turn freely.

I used a 1/2" wood dowel to hold the bushing when I sawed it in to as I didn't need that long a bushing.

SAM-0305.jpg

Edited by Lee1977
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Firebug

Well that doesn’t sound like a quick fix. But if that is what needs done. 

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