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CountryRock

1981 GT2500 Lighting

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CountryRock

The headlights on the GT2500 are on an AC setup in stock configuration.  Can they be changed over to DC and wired through the accessory terminal on the ignition switch?  Kinda brainstorming the idea of putting a distribution block off that terminal to add tail lights and maybe a small light bar, all LED of course.

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Achto
6 hours ago, CountryRock said:

Can they be changed over to DC and wired through the accessory terminal on the ignition switch?

 

Briggs used two sets of windings on the stator for that set up. One was a low amp stator that ran through a diode to produce DC power to charge the battery, no voltage regulator. This is the one that is probably hooked to your accessory term on the switch now to charge the battery. The second winding was a higher amp stator to run the lights, That was not run through a diode, and produced AC power. 

 

Check to see what the voltage is at the light socket with the engine running full throttle. If it is 15 volts AC or less, you could add a rectifier or a diode into the circuit to change it to DC power and use it for your accessories. You might need to keep the circuit isolated from the battery, or you could have an issue with over charging.   

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CountryRock
9 hours ago, Achto said:

 

Briggs used two sets of windings on the stator for that set up. One was a low amp stator that ran through a diode to produce DC power to charge the battery, no voltage regulator. This is the one that is probably hooked to your accessory term on the switch now to charge the battery. The second winding was a higher amp stator to run the lights, That was not run through a diode, and produced AC power. 

 

Check to see what the voltage is at the light socket with the engine running full throttle. If it is 15 volts AC or less, you could add a rectifier or a diode into the circuit to change it to DC power and use it for your accessories. You might need to keep the circuit isolated from the battery, or you could have an issue with over charging.   

There is nothing hooked to the accessory terminal on the switch.

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pfrederi

I do not have a B&S to compare but sounds like the unregulated systems WH used on some Kolhlers Looking at the wiring diagram for your tractor there are  3 wires coming from the engine itself.  One is the kill wire for the magneto.  it goes through a relay and safety switches but winds up at the M terminal on your ignition switch.  Two is the AC output and goes direct to the head light switch.  The 3rd one is orange and is unregulated DC and goes to the R terminal on your ignition switch and charges you r battery.  if you wired your headlights to the Acc Terminal they would work...for awhile. They would be drawing alot more than the unregulated DC is producing.  So you are drawing 6 amps  (2- 35 watt lamps ) or more for the lights but only replacing about 3 amps.....

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Achto
3 hours ago, CountryRock said:

There is nothing hooked to the accessory terminal on the switch.

 

I would not hook anything to the accessory on the switch then. Leave the lights on their own circuit. Add a diode with the stripe facing away from the engine between the engine and the switch. A diode is like an electrical check valve, it will allow the positive wave through but will not allow the wave to return to the stator. Thus changing AC power to DC power. You will be able to run DC lighting this way. You will want to check your DC output at full throttle, you do not want more than 15 volts DC. If your voltage is too high you may need to add a resistor into the circuit to knock your voltage down.

A pic of a diode.

image.png.0924e006fc82a848f12c990118532738.png

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CountryRock

I put a new ignition switch in,old one wouldnt hold the key in in the run position.  I took some readings off the accessory terminal when the tractor was running, got around 12.5v DC, 5 amp DC.  Why couldn't I run a set of led tail lights off of that?

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