ZXT 2,401 #26 Posted June 19, 2019 That cylinder looks pretty good! What did you use to remove the ridge? The razor blade or a ridge reamer? If you used a razor blade, then there wasn't a ridge and you just cleaned off some carbon buildup. Any pictures of the tractor itself? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cecil Davis 14 #27 Posted June 23, 2019 A couple new pictures, clean up the cover, new oil seal. I do have a problem. I started reassembly today. Discovered I had put the connecting rod on the Piston head backwards. I checked the clearance plastigage on the journal and it looked good. Then I put in on the journal, got the rings inside the cylinder and added the rod cap back. I torqued to the spec on the sheet included with the connecting rod. 3/8 hex to 160 in. lbs per the instructions with the rod (OE Briggs) and 1/2 hex to 260 inch lbs. Nothing would move. l loosened both bolts and the piston would move. I torqued both to 120 inch lbs. Nothing would move. I torqued both to 100 inch lbs, which is the spec for smaller engines and it moved up and down. The spec on the Briggs chart for 25000 series engines is 185 inch lbs. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cecil Davis 14 #28 Posted June 23, 2019 On 6/19/2019 at 8:41 AM, ZXT said: That cylinder looks pretty good! What did you use to remove the ridge? The razor blade or a ridge reamer? If you used a razor blade, then there wasn't a ridge and you just cleaned off some carbon buildup. Any pictures of the tractor itself? I used a razor blade and then honed a second time and it looked good. The tractor is still at Dad's, he is going to trailer it here when I finish with the engine. I took the engine to get a head start. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cecil Davis 14 #29 Posted June 26, 2019 I figured out the torque problem, there was a slight high spot on the journal. Carefully worked that down and everything went together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
