New with my Dad's C111

[Cecil Davis 14]

New to the forum.  Helping my Dad fix his engine on a C-111 He can't mess with them anymore, but he is a great adviser.  Attached some pictures.  Working on the engine first, broken piston connecting rod.  Would be grateful for sites to buy rebuild kits or parts.

[SylvanLakeWH 28,240]

 

I am not a motor guy but folks will be along with good advice...

[Achto 29,340]

Here is one source.

http://www.psep.biz/store/briggs_stratton_rebuild_kits.htm

[oliver2-44 10,640]

I"m following along as I have a Briggs I need to rebuild. 

[Cecil Davis 14]

31 minutes ago, Achto said:

Here is one source.

http://www.psep.biz/store/briggs_stratton_rebuild_kits.htm

Thank you!

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

You will get great advice here and welcome to red square.

 

.     Glenn

[ebinmaine 72,210]

6 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

 

I am not a motor guy but folks will be along with good advice...

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,420]

Here is an original parts list. Click on the picture.

Garry

[953 nut 59,598]

Lots of good people with great answers here.   Please feel free to ask anything that comes up.

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Lots of good people with great answers here.   Please feel free to ask anything that comes up.

and 

 

to !!!

[Cecil Davis 14]

This flywheel did not come off easily.  But now it is off!  There is considerable aluminum buildup on the journal where the old connecting rod seized.  I have seen muriatic acid used to remove the aluminum.  A couple of questions, what is the clearance on the connecting arm when I reattach it, and what is the torque on the connecting rod bolts?

[953 nut 59,598]

This service manual should give you the information you need.  You are correct about Muriatic Acid removing aluminum. When you install the flywheel do not use any oil or other lubrication, it is supposed to be difficult to remove.

 

[Cecil Davis 14]

Thank you!

[Cecil Davis 14]

A look at the journal after cleaning with Muriatic Acid (nasty stuff) and the broken connecting rod and the replacement.  The journal is fairly smooth after the acid, but not perfect.  Will that be a problem?

[ebinmaine 72,210]

That should be turned to get it smooth, if possible. Or replace the crank.

That would likely eat another bearing.

[Pullstart 66,427]

Yeah, you shouldn’t be able to journal with a fingernail.  That looks like much more clean up work is needed.  

 

Our local NAPA hub has a machine shop.  Possibly you could search around for one that could turn the crank for you, your dad’s tractor will thank you 

 

Also, if I haven’t said so already!

[Cecil Davis 14]

Thank you, I will get the journal cleaned up and machined if necessary.  I appreciate the input.  If I get it machined will change the connecting arm that I would use?  Also, am I using this forum correctly by adding to this topic, or should I start new topics with each question?

[ebinmaine 72,210]

2 hours ago, Cecil Davis said:

Thank you, I will get the journal cleaned up and machined if necessary.  I appreciate the input.  If I get it machined will change the connecting arm that I would use?  Also, am I using this forum correctly by adding to this topic, or should I start new topics with each question?

Your best bet on the machining question is to bring it to the machine shop that you would use and let them answer it for you.

I don't know enough about small engines to tell you for sure but in the larger ones, sometimes you would change to a different size bearing.

It's also possible there is enough damage on that to warrant just getting another part.

Any decent small engine machine shop will have the knowledge and the tools necessary to help you make that decision.

 

 

As to the topic question, you're doing fine.

You could start a new topic with a group of questions about say, an engine, in the engine section. Obviously that would carry over with other parts to other sections.

It does help sort out the threads for searching and for future users.

[Cecil Davis 14]

Thanks!

 

I honed the cylinder today and their is a small ridge at the top that I have to figure out what to do with also.

 

[ebinmaine 72,210]

1 hour ago, Cecil Davis said:

... ridge at the top that I have to figure out what to do with also.

 

I would do the same with that as with the crank and rod. Bring it to the machine shop and have them inspect and measure with the appropriate tools.

The cylinder bore will need to be measured in multiple places to determine the amount of wear and also out of round.

[pfrederi 18,609]

There is a tool for it, a ridge reamer or you can use a razor blade

 

 

 

[Cecil Davis 14]

Thanks, I talked with a machine shop guy today.  The ridge is slight and does not go around the whole cylinder.

[Cecil Davis 14]

A few new pictures, the cylinder after honing, I have also reamed out the ridge using the technique that was posted on this thread.  I took the crankshaft to my Dad (a machinist) and he signed off on the clean up job on the journal after making a few recommendations.  There is a picture of the cleaned crankcase.  Also, everyone has told me not to reuse the clips on the piston, so the new ones came in today.

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,527]

I would find a good running K series kohler and use that. If you are rebuilding the Briggs to stay original I respect that too. Either way good luck!

[Cecil Davis 14]

3 hours ago, stevebo said:

I would find a good running K series kohler and use that. If you are rebuilding the Briggs to stay original I respect that too. Either way good luck!

We are just trying to get her running again for the fun of it.  My Dad had started working on it before he had to stop messing with them and I took over.  He is still the technical adviser .  He actually had put a smaller engine on it that did not run the power takeoff and just used it to pull a mowing deck behind the Wheel Horse.  It was a cool setup, but I am going to put the 11hp back on and get the power takeoff working again hopefully.